Front drive shaft tear

Potatohead

New member
^ Welcome to WAL by the way.

Thanks

I know most people run the double cardan, seems the industry standard. For us mortals who don't want to deal with adjustable arms and all that a rzeppa is pretty cool since it's more forgiving with angle.
 

dwvninety

New member
I'm confused

Do you feel the TF joint is redundant? The factory joint does not allow enough angle if you have a lot of droop, the boot tears pretty quickly. The TF joint solves that.

They also have a driveshaft coming in month or two which will feature the same joint. It was at SEMA this year.


No I'm just afraid Dennis will beat my ass if something on it breaks because of user install error :stick hiting:
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Teraflex offers a high angle cv joint to replace the factory one. I may be inviting a flame but If we are talking just about factory cv's and not exhaust clearance or other driveshaft interference I would go this route. About $150.00 from Northridge. My reasoning is, we all believe RCV shafts with a Rzeppa cv is superior to a u-joint on axles and yet we want to remove one that already exists on a driveshaft. just my 2 cents.

Really, "we all" believe RCV shafts are superior to a u-joint? :thinking:
I guess that's news to me but then, what would I know.

I'm confused

Do you feel the TF joint is redundant? The factory joint does not allow enough angle if you have a lot of droop, the boot tears pretty quickly. The TF joint solves that.

They also have a driveshaft coming in month or two which will feature the same joint. It was at SEMA this year.

The factory joint tear because on a lifted Jeep, the CV boot sits in a constant state of pinch and that causes it to wear out prematurely. The TeraFlex joint doesn't solve that problem nor does it fix the slip shaft boot tearing on the exhaust. Of course, this is to say nothing about the strength of the shaft tube.

main.php


But hey, if TeraFlex makes it and Northridge sells it, you know it has to be the best thing since sliced bread. :yup:
 

WJCO

Meme King
Thanks

I know most people run the double cardan, seems the industry standard. For us mortals who don't want to deal with adjustable arms and all that a rzeppa is pretty cool since it's more forgiving with angle.

More forgiving with angle? You mean at stock angles? I'm confused. Seems like even small lifts tear those things up.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I know most people run the double cardan, seems the industry standard.

To be clear, a u-joint style double cardan drive shaft is what JEEP sells as an upgrade to their factory rzeppa joint shaft. See proof below:

main.php


For us mortals who don't want to deal with adjustable arms and all that a rzeppa is pretty cool since it's more forgiving with angle.

Funny, I never knew that my u-joint style double cardan drive shaft had any problems with the angle it sits at. If anything, the factory rzeppa CV boots have a problem with them failing on lifted Jeeps due to the fact that they sit at a constant state of pinch. We have been seeing this since they first came out back in 2006. But hey, what would I know about any of this stuff.
 

WJCO

Meme King
To be clear, a u-joint style double cardan drive shaft is what JEEP sells as an upgrade to their factory rzeppa joint shaft. See proof below:

main.php




Funny, I never knew that my u-joint style double cardan drive shaft had any problems with the angle it sits at. If anything, the factory rzeppa CV boots have a problem with them failing on lifted Jeeps due to the fact that they sit at a constant state of pinch. We have been seeing this since they first came out back in 2006. But hey, what would I know about any of this stuff.

Eddie, is that option available for mortals too? Just curious.
 

Potatohead

New member
Really, "we all" believe RCV shafts are superior to a u-joint? :thinking:
I guess that's news to me but then, what would I know.



The factory joint tears because on a lifted Jeep, the CV boot sits in a constant state of pinch and that causes it to wear out prematurely. The TeraFlex joint doesn't solve that problem nor does it fix the slip shaft boot tearing on the exhaust. Of course, this is to say nothing about the strength of the shaft tube.

But hey, if TeraFlex makes it and Northridge sells it, you know it has to be the best thing since sliced bread. :yup:


I know this site/you does/do not like Teraflex, but this it not entirely correct. The TF joint allows angle 15* increase over the stock joint. So it does solve the pinching problem the factory rzeppa has unless you are very high with a ton of droop. It's a real solution for most guys not running coilovers and 40's :D. The factory shafts are relatively strong until they get dented. The bigger problem is the larger diameter and clearance issues, which the upcoming rzeppa driveshaft will also solve.


More forgiving with angle? You mean at stock angles? I'm confused. Seems like even small lifts tear those things up.

Stock pinion angle. With a double cardan because you have to point the pinion higher, you basically need all four front arms to use one, the uppers to get the pinion high enough and the lowers to get some of your caster back. With an aftermarket diff housing and 10* spread (stock is 6*) it's not as much of a problem. With a rzeppa you can maintain a more factory pinion angle.
 

WJCO

Meme King
I know this site/you does/do not like Teraflex, but this it not entirely correct. The TF joint allows angle 15* increase over the stock joint. So it does solve the pinching problem the factory rzeppa has unless you are very high with a ton of droop. It's a real solution for most guys not running coilovers and 40's :D. The factory shafts are relatively strong until they get dented. The bigger problem is the larger diameter and clearance issues, which the upcoming rzeppa driveshaft will also solve.
Stock pinion angle. With a double cardan because you have to point the pinion higher, you basically need all four front arms to use one, the uppers to get the pinion high enough and the lowers to get some of your caster back. With an aftermarket diff housing and 10* spread (stock is 6*) it's not as much of a problem. With a rzeppa you can maintain a more factory pinion angle.

I have no problems with Teraflex and that's not where I'm coming from. Your lack of posts on our forum yet seeming to know whether we like/dislike Teraflex is a little suspicious. Regardless, your product knowledge of the above seems high and it sounds like you're trying to sell us something. I'm happy with my ujoints, so I won't be buying anything today.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I know this site/you does/do not like Teraflex, but this it not entirely correct.

I know you are a fanboy of TeraFlex and so you're blinded by what you've choosen to believe but this is not entirely correct.

The TF joint allows angle 15* increase over the stock joint. So it does solve the pinching problem the factory rzeppa has unless you are very high with a ton of droop. It's a real solution for most guys not running coilovers and 40's :D

Meaning that the CV boot will still be sitting in the SAME state of pinch. That is inherently the problem - NOT the amount of droop they have or lack there of.

The factory shafts are relatively strong until they get dented.

Clearly, you're the expert here. Me, I just run a website and know nothing about JK's or any problems they might of had over the last 9 years.

The bigger problem is the larger diameter and clearance issues, which the upcoming rzeppa driveshaft will also solve.

If you say so. Might want to let Jeep know about that as I think they missed that memo.

Stock pinion angle. With a double cardan because you have to point the pinion higher, you basically need all four front arms to use one, the uppers to get the pinion high enough and the lowers to get some of your caster back. With an aftermarket diff housing and 10* spread (stock is 6*) it's not as much of a problem.

Ummm, with a double cardan rear shaft, you don't have to just point it "higher", you NEED to have it set in line with the pinion to prevent drive line vibrations. Up front, caster take priority and while you can save some money by setting it with just a set of adjustable lower arms, the primary purpose of lower arms is to set your axle position. Adjustable front uppers would be what you'd technically want to use to set your caster. :naw:

With a rzeppa you can maintain a more factory pinion angle.

With an rzeppa joint, it shouldn't make a difference what your pinion angle is set at. :naw:
 

dwvninety

New member
Do you work for TF? Are you a family member of someone who does?

What kind of a question is that? Why would I ever work or be related to a company that produces lack luster products. TF will always blame the user or installer if one of their products fail. That a big NO for me.
 
What kind of a question is that? Why would I ever work or be related to a company that produces lack luster products. TF will always blame the user or installer if one of their products fail. That a big NO for me.

Just how you said Dennis would beat your ass...... Good to know. Can't stand that compant
 

trailraider

Active Member
To be clear, a u-joint style double cardan drive shaft is what JEEP sells as an upgrade to their factory rzeppa joint shaft. See proof below:

main.php




Funny, I never knew that my u-joint style double cardan drive shaft had any problems with the angle it sits at. If anything, the factory rzeppa CV boots have a problem with them failing on lifted Jeeps due to the fact that they sit at a constant state of pinch. We have been seeing this since they first came out back in 2006. But hey, what would I know about any of this stuff.


I talked to mopar performance last month.they changed the vender making their lifts this year and no longer supply the front shaft with the kits they listed in the catalogue.it was still a good kit but i was disapointed they removed it from the set up.you have to purchase seperately now.

this is the listing

‘07-’14 WRANGLER 3" LIFT KIT WITH FOX
RACING SHOX
Utilize an exterior reservoir version of the FOX 2.0
Performance Series shock for greater heat dissipation.
The shocks, in combination with the Mopar®/TeraFlex
SpeedBump System (used on the front axle), provide
exceptional performance at speed. Additionally, this
system includes all four rear axle-to-frame link arms and
front lower link arms for ideal driveline geometry and
front end alignment (no realignment required). Includes
four tuned coil springs, brake line, track bar brackets,
Double Cardin front drive shaft (3.6L engine).

so be warned if you buy this kit it does not have the good front shaft.

altho i do believe they have updated the listing on line.
 

Potatohead

New member
I have no problems with Teraflex and that's not where I'm coming from. Your lack of posts on our forum yet seeming to know whether we like/dislike Teraflex is a little suspicious. Regardless, your product knowledge of the above seems high and it sounds like you're trying to sell us something. I'm happy with my ujoints, so I won't be buying anything today.

To be honest I just signed up because of this thread. I've been lurking a while. I thought this new shaft was a pretty cool thing coming to market and thought maybe the OP should know about it since someone else brought up the joint already. I only know of it because I was at Teraflex last month coming back from Moab and was talking to some guys there, and they brought it up. I have no affiliation with them.

I know you are a fanboy of TeraFlex and so you're blinded by what you've choosen to believe but this is not entirely correct.



Meaning that the CV boot will still be sitting in the SAME state of pinch. That is inherently the problem - NOT the amount of droop they have or lack there of.

More droop causes more pinch, which was my point. If you look at the TF joint, the center metal lip is folded back at an angle. There's nothing for the boot to pinch against.

Clearly, you're the expert here. Me, I just run a website and know nothing about JK's or any problems they might of had over the last 9 years.

I don't think I said that, but ok.

Ummm, with a double cardan rear shaft, you don't have to just point it "higher", you NEED to have it set in line with the pinion to prevent drive line vibrations. Up front, caster take priority and while you can save some money by setting it with just a set of adjustable lower arms, the primary purpose of lower arms is to set your axle position. Adjustable front uppers would be what you'd technically want to use to set your caster. :naw:



With an rzeppa joint, it shouldn't make a difference what your pinion angle is set at. :naw:

That is entirely my point, it is more forgiving. If double cardans were simply bolt it on and go, they'd be on at the factory. You know as well as I do Jeep is offering the double cardans in their lifts because they need the clearance, not because they are easier to use.

Anyway I was just trying to throw another option out there. I have no problem with double cardans at all. If I never stopped by Teraflex that one day I would very likely have one on my Jeep. I just think this other option is probably better for a lot of people. The fact that it will most likely vibrate less is a big one, too.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
To be honest I just signed up because of this thread. I've been lurking a while. I thought this new shaft was a pretty cool thing coming to market and thought maybe the OP should know about it since someone else brought up the joint already. I only know of it because I was at Teraflex last month coming back from Moab and was talking to some guys there, and they brought it up.

You signed up just to post on this thread about something you were sold while you were at TeraFlex - say it isn't so!! :shock:

More droop causes more pinch, which was my point. If you look at the TF joint, the center metal lip is folded back at an angle. There's nothing for the boot to pinch against.

Funny, I've seen plenty of torn CV boots over the last 9 years but never from making contact with the metal collar. But hey, if the guys at TeraFlex sold you on the idea that this is the cause of them failing, you just keep on believing just that. :yup:

That is entirely my point, it is more forgiving.

More forgiving on a STOCK Jeep. That's what they were designed for.

If double cardans were simply bolt it on and go, they'd be on at the factory.

Once again, you're the expert here. Clearly, you opinion is a fact.

You know as well as I do Jeep is offering the double cardans in their lifts because they need the clearance, not because they are easier to use.

Funny, I don't know if I knew that but if you say so, it must be true.

Anyway I was just trying to throw another option out there. I have no problem with double cardans at all. If I never stopped by Teraflex that one day I would very likely have one on my Jeep.

As P.T. Barnum is famous for saying - "There's a sucker born every minute"

I just think this other option is probably better for a lot of people. The fact that it will most likely vibrate less is a big one, too.

Funny, my balanced and properly installed u-joint style double cardan shaft doesn't vibrate at all even with 5.38's. I must have done something wrong.
 
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