Giving Some Love to Factory Skidplates!!

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I decided against the full skids for two reason and simply augmented the oil pan with a Rancho cover and the trans pan with a Rock Krawler deep sump replacement heavy duty skid pan. I will say that the Rock Krawler piece is a great idea, just poorly manufactured. Reason 1- I saved a ton of sprung weight and lessened heat retention going the pan reinforcement route. Reason 2- any repairs between the underbody and the skids (especially on the trail when the jeep is hot) can seriously be a hassle trying to remove full skids that have chewed up bolt heads.

thos are 2 very well stated reasons and couldn't agree more. i thought it was especially telling how both you and mel were able to take on the big, near vertical waterfall on axle alley without loosing your transmission while dave (no RK deep sump pan) was not able to.

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GCM 2

New member
thos are 2 very well stated reasons and couldn't agree more.

Eddie, unfortunately sometimes we learn the hard way (or at least I do occasionally). Just trying to pass on valid facts my man :beer:

Edit: and btw, I keep forgetting the couple that heard our JK's in the canyon and showed up on the razor atv to check it out (the guy in blue just visible behind my JK) and how they laughed at us sizing up the obstacle......until we all drove up and over that waterfall!
 
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Prime8

New member
Eddie, read your posts about this on the jk forum. Very informative. Thanks for dropping some knowledge on us. I was considering the protek system, but you just saved me 500 bucks! All I've protected thus far is the evap with the PSC cover. The other you recommend is oil pan?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Eddie, read your posts about this on the jk forum. Very informative. Thanks for dropping some knowledge on us. I was considering the protek system, but you just saved me 500 bucks! All I've protected thus far is the evap with the PSC cover. The other you recommend is oil pan?

yep, an oil pan skid is definitely something i would recommend and if you have an 07-early 10, you should be good with that. if you had a late 10-12, i would recommend some kind of protection as the none was provided from the factory. if you have a late 10-11, i would still recommend the rock krawler HD deep sump pan over a skid plate and, if you have a 12, i would highly recommend the evo protek skid plate - just protects what you need and nothing else.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
With all the talk of aftermarket skid plates that I have been seeing recently, I thought this old thread was worth a bump and yes, I am STILL running factory skid plates :D
 

JeepFan

Hooked
With all the talk of aftermarket skid plates that I have been seeing recently, I thought this old thread was worth a bump and yes, I am STILL running factory skid plates :D

X2! ^^^^ :yup: The only skids I added are the EVO Protek skids for the engine and trans pan and they have saved my Jeep more than once. As for the factory skid plates, they do exactly what they were designed to do...
 

JayKay

Caught the Bug
View attachment 80243

Now, I would be the first to say that both skidplates did their job of protecting the transfer case. The only difference is that one came on the JK from the factory at no additional cost and, the other will cost you an additional $315 while offering NO better protection. I'm just sayin...

You could plant a garden in the amount of dirt and moisture that aftermarket skid would hold :crazyeyes:
 
I have the Protek system. Protecting the oil pan was my biggest concern. The second being the exhaust cross-over and loop (12+). (Side note, my Jeep didn't come with the little bar to protect this.) I know there are plenty of guys running without this and their Jeep still runs fine with it all dented up, but I sleep better knowing it's down there :D. I actually wasn't that worried about the transmission since I have a manual, but went with the skid anyway because I thought it might help prevent me from getting hung up should a rock or stump find it's way there.

Having said all this. The only skid plates that have seen action are the crossmember, t-case, and gas tank. Only VERY light scratches on the transmission and oil pan skids.

Even though I try to avoid it. I have mud in my area, and lots of it. I also have winter salted roads. I have found the Protek+Stock skids clean VERY easily. So, not only are the lighter from the start, but they don't gather a bunch of crap and hold it either. I worked on a buddys Jeep that had a full belly pan type system and I shit-you-not, It took both of us to carry the skids out to the yard to clean the gunk they were holding on the top. (It filled a wheelbarrow!)

But hey, I like everybody buying aftermarket replacement skids. I bought a perfect stock t-case and gas tank skid for $20 at a swap meet. Not that I will be replacing them anytime soon....
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
great thread! this is one i didnt know about. if he gass tank skid can hold up to everything you have thrown at it im sure mine will be well "clearanced" for a long time with no issues
 

mrmet1983

New member
I agree my stock gas tank skid and tcase skid take a beating and hold up just fine but the oil pan and tranny def need skids


I don't always wheel , but when I do I keep it tight......... Stay dirty my friends.
 

TheStick

Member
'13 JKU and my only add has been the Rock Hard Oil pan/Transmission skid (was a little late with this as my oil pan has a nice dent in it :naw: ). I am with you and have no plans replacing the gas tank or T-Case skids. They have done their job. My question is with other areas that are still not protected.

Exhaust loop
Resonator
EVAP to a point although it does have a dinky skid on it (saw one ripped off on the trail)

Any consideration to protecting these, or just not worth the $/effort?
 

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
Agreed. I wouldn't bother with anything more than protek skids or something similar. Just cover the vulnerable areas and call it a day.

Also, just a note, the stock oil pan, while technically not "protected", they did put thought into it....most stock oil pans on most vehicles I have owned have been aluminum. Aluminum cracks when hit, but on the wrangler, they used a stamped steel plate, which will dent, and keep the oil in. Now sure, it's possible to puncture, and I agree that adding a skid is is great, but even the stock pan is nothing to sneeze at for the casual wheeler.:thumb:
 

newtdog

Member
I've only added the EVAP skid. I also feel like having the stock ones all beat up is like earning a badge of honor. When I have to take it to the stealership, I want the guy to get under and say....now this guy wheels!!!


2010 MANGO TANGO SPORT JKU🇺🇸
 

Flyer

New member
Looking at skid plates and researching type of steel, access to oil plug, bolting areas, etc. Some good choices out there. The factory plates seem very thin, though they will certainly protect to a certain degree. I am less afraid of scrapes and more concerned about landing on a tree stump or rock after going over an obstacle. My buddy just picked up the Rockhard ones, after eliminating the EVO and Synergy ones. I think River Raider is another option out there. Any idea how much the factory ones weigh, versus the typical aftermarket ones?
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
The factory plates seem very thin, though they will certainly protect to a certain degree. I am less afraid of scrapes and more concerned about landing on a tree stump or rock after going over an obstacle.

How about slamming into a rock like what you see on this video at 0:51 and then again at 0:54...


:yawn37: This is just one of the countless times my thin and weak gas tank skid has taken a hit like this or harder over the last 7+ years.

My buddy just picked up the Rockhard ones, after eliminating the EVO and Synergy ones. I think River Raider is another option out there. Any idea how much the factory ones weigh, versus the typical aftermarket ones?

The River Raider ones are one of the worst aftermarket skid plate systems I have seen to date and the photo I showed earlier with the T-case skid bent up after one wheeling trip is theirs. On top of that, their fitment sucks and are near impossible to remove when the bolts heads get damaged and or rusted over. Of course, you can forget about doing a quick check for leaks or making quick fluid changes. As far as the Rockhard ones go, they are a lot tougher but being that the gas tank skid mounts OVER the factory skid, you are ADDING all that extra weight without removing any of it.
 

Jeep_Dawg08

New member
Ah ok... I didn't realize that all jk came with the same skids. I thought that the Rubis would have more..
Good info to know.
Ty

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