Going to 40s and I am confused

Mizippi

Mizippi

New member
All,

Need some quick thoughts from the group. I am going to 40x13.5x17, and the shop that's helping me says I need to move the front axle forward?!? I have:

XD60
Evo coilovers
PSC assist
Atx chambers Pro II

Need to know anything else?

Thx in advance!!!


2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
 
Why are they saying it needs to be moved forward? Caster? Wheel placement? Are tires rubbing?
 
WJCO said:
Why are they saying it needs to be moved forward? Caster? Wheel placement? Are tires rubbing?
Click to expand...

They haven't even lifted it yet, and they are saying that rubbing and the track bar is too close the the diff cover.


2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
 
Mizippi said:
They haven't even lifted it yet, and they are saying that rubbing and the track bar is too close the the diff cover.


2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
Click to expand...

If they move the axle forward, the track bar will be closer to the cover so that doesn't make sense. Unless they plan to relocate the frame mount.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
What shop did you go to?

I ask, because I'm going to add it to my list of "places to never take my Jeep"
 
I guess my general question is with 40s, evo coilovers, PSC, and XD60 do we see them having to move the axle forward (including moving the track bar mount).

He'll have we seen anyone move the track at mount?


2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
 
Mizippi said:
I guess my general question is with 40s, evo coilovers, PSC, and XD60 do we see them having to move the axle forward (including moving the track bar mount).

He'll have we seen anyone move the track at mount?


2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
Click to expand...

Don't have an XD60 but a PR60, and don't have coilovers but, you should not have to relocate any brackets to fit the 40s. at normal ride hight, assuming 3"+ of lift, you shouldn't rub in the front. Once you flex the jeep you will need to trim the body panels at the pinch seem.

The rear on the other hand you have to trim the pinch seem to not rub at ride hight and a whole bunch more when you are flexing, but you still shouldn't have to relocate any brackets
 
I'm not understanding the whole track bar thing either. Regardless, if your track bar hits your diff cover, it's not the end of the world. Annoying, but shouldn't hurt anything. The axle should be centered in the wheel well with the lower arms, then caster adjusted accordingly with the upper arms. Everything after that is secondary little stuff.
 
2011jk said:
Weird, my XD60 is moved forward 1" and the track bar doesn't hit... fully flexed or totally stuffed.
Click to expand...

Weird, don't recall anybody saying that the track bar "would" hit, just that IF ANYTHING, it would be CLOSER to the cover if the axle were moved forward. Unless you've relocated your track bar frame mount, this would be true.
 
Ok. I went up there. Things got clearer.

Like WJCO mentioned they just wanted to center the axle in the wheel well, and as such they are moving the axle forward possibly an inch. If it moved forward that far they were worried about how close to the diff the track bar would come.

We are going to reroute the PSC lines to see if we can avoid pinching the mm between the diff and the track bar before moving the track bar.

Again thanks(!) for the quick replies...very helpful


2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
 
Mizippi said:
Ok. I went up there. Things got clearer.

Like WJCO mentioned they just wanted to center the axle in the wheel well, and as such they are moving the axle forward possibly an inch. If it moved forward that far they were worried about how close to the diff the track bar would come.

We are going to reroute the PSC lines to see if we can avoid pinching the mm between the diff and the track bar before moving the track bar.

Again thanks(!) for the quick replies...very helpful


2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
Click to expand...

You shouldn't have to do any of that. reroute your hydro lines above the track bar. Again I wouldn't relocate any track bar brackets. It is not necessary.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
wayoflife said:
Weird, don't recall anybody saying that the track bar "would" hit, just that IF ANYTHING, it would be CLOSER to the cover if the axle were moved forward. Unless you've relocated your track bar frame mount, this would be true.
Click to expand...

Even if he moved the frame side track bar mount, wouldn't he still have to move the steering box the same amount to avoid issues with the drag link?


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aTX427 said:
Even if he moved the frame side track bar mount, wouldn't he still have to move the steering box the same amount to avoid issues with the drag link?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

We discussed the drag link for sure. It's really close at full stuff with out the additional lift to clear the 40s. Currently it's pinching the hydro lines (see pic).

IMG_3906.jpg

Hopefully the increased lift and extended bump stops prevent it from hitting or pinching.




2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
 
Mizippi said:
We discussed the drag link for sure. It's really close at full stuff with out the additional lift to clear the 40s. Currently it's pinching the hydro lines (see pic).

View attachment 274761

Hopefully the increased lift and extended bump stops prevent it from hitting or pinching.




2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
Click to expand...
Looks like it actually needs to go backwards. Do you have adjustable control arms. How far out are they if so?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
I do (EVO long arms). It will be tough to go backwards with 40s.


2007 2WD (upgrades: Hemi, Atlas, 1 Tons, 40s, etc)
 
Next step is to raise the jeep via the coilovers , install the 40s, and then see where we land.

Thx again everyone!!
 
I don't see how raising the Jeep on the coilover's is going to help. The axle sweeps back as the suspension extends and forward as it stuffs. You need to set the control arm length at full stuff, not centered under the wheel wells.
 
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