Installing a Rubicon Transfer Case in a 2014 Wrangler JK Sport (Auto Trans)

I'm planning on doing this swap sometime soon but was wondering if you guys knew if the install for the manual transmission version is different or if there is a guide out there for that. I would imagine it's pretty similar though. Thanks in advance.
 
CaveDiver said:
I'm planning on doing this swap sometime soon but was wondering if you guys knew if the install for the manual transmission version is different or if there is a guide out there for that. I would imagine it's pretty similar though. Thanks in advance.
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It should be really similar, even though the transfer case is different. Really, you are just unbolting the old one, and bolting the new one back in.


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CaveDiver said:
I'm planning on doing this swap sometime soon but was wondering if you guys knew if the install for the manual transmission version is different or if there is a guide out there for that. I would imagine it's pretty similar though. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
I swapped mine over at the beginning of this year with my manual tranny. I used this write up to do it. The process is all the exact same. The only thing you need to look out for is when you are buying a Rubicon transfer case make sure it is out of either a 07-11 (any transmission) or a 12+ Manual transmission only. The 12+ auto has a different transmission input and will not work with the manual.
Also to note while I followed this write up I did NOT remove the transmission cross member. It will definitely make more clearance to get up in there but it can be done without taking it out. Also if you don't have the already buy a set of stubby wrenches, I couldn't get it done without them.

If you look at my build thread page 5 I have some pics of my swap.

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Reviving this old thread to add a quick question. I'm getting ready to do this swap for my 17 JKU Manual Transmission. Does anyone know if I need to recalibrate the jeep with something like the AEV procal for the new 4:1 ratio on a manual transmission? I don't really care if the speed is not correct in 4-low but don't want to risk messing anything else up.
 
CaveDiver said:
Reviving this old thread to add a quick question. I'm getting ready to do this swap for my 17 JKU Manual Transmission. Does anyone know if I need to recalibrate the jeep with something like the AEV procal for the new 4:1 ratio on a manual transmission? I don't really care if the speed is not correct in 4-low but don't want to risk messing anything else up.
Click to expand...

Not sure if it was in this thread or another one but I read somewhere that it’s not required for a manual. If I can find it I’ll post a link.

Edit:

Rubicon transfer case swap questions 2012 Manual Trans
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=41013

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-AINOKEA- said:
Not sure if it was in this thread or another one but I read somewhere that it’s not required for a manual. If I can find it I’ll post a link.

Edit:

Rubicon transfer case swap questions 2012 Manual Trans
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=41013
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Awesome, thanks!

Another question I just thought off is if I need to do any special alignment with the driveshafts to the t-case as they are marked with paint to re-align if you remove the original one
 
CaveDiver said:
Awesome, thanks!

Another question I just thought off is if I need to do any special alignment with the driveshafts to the t-case as they are marked with paint to re-align if you remove the original one
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Driveshafts are balanced independently of the transfer case so you don’t have to worry about that. However if you have an aftermarket DS that’s been balanced and you pull it apart to clean, make sure you mark the splines and reassemble them so the marks line up again. Otherwise the balancing will be off.


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CaveDiver said:
Reviving this old thread to add a quick question. I'm getting ready to do this swap for my 17 JKU Manual Transmission. Does anyone know if I need to recalibrate the jeep with something like the AEV procal for the new 4:1 ratio on a manual transmission? I don't really care if the speed is not correct in 4-low but don't want to risk messing anything else up.
Click to expand...

-AINOKEA- said:
Not sure if it was in this thread or another one but I read somewhere that it’s not required for a manual. If I can find it I’ll post a link.

Edit:

Rubicon transfer case swap questions 2012 Manual Trans
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=41013

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
That linked thread was the one that I started that eventually got merged I think.
But anyhow the answer is no you do not need to re calibrate anything with the manual transmission. I swapped one into my 12' manual and it didn't change anything and re bolted up the stock drive shafts with no issue.

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When swapping in the rubi tcase. Do I just reset my traildash and set it up as a rubicon? Or is their a way to set the tcase ratio? Probably my try and knock out the swap tomorrow. How long does it roughly take?
 
Mybadjk said:
When swapping in the rubi tcase. Do I just reset my traildash and set it up as a rubicon? Or is their a way to set the tcase ratio? Probably my try and knock out the swap tomorrow. How long does it roughly take?
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Without a transmission jack, 452 hours. With one, mine took about 6-7 hours. Trying to balance the tcase on a floor jack and maneuver it at the same time by yourself was an excercise in frustration. I quit and bought the jenner jack at Harbor Freight and it was worth it. Also, my transmission crossmember was so beat to shit I couldn't get it to go back in until I unleashed the Heavy Duty cuss words and 5# sledge. The most difficult part is getting at the top 3 nuts on the tcase. :crazyeyes:

You'll need some kind of programmer to switch the 4lo to the 4:1 or you'l go into limp mode. Can't answer the Traildash question
 
Ddays said:
Without a transmission jack, 452 hours. With one, mine took about 6-7 hours. Trying to balance the tcase on a floor jack and maneuver it at the same time by yourself was an excercise in frustration. I quit and bought the jenner jack at Harbor Freight and it was worth it. Also, my transmission crossmember was so beat to shit I couldn't get it to go back in until I unleashed the Heavy Duty cuss words and 5# sledge. The most difficult part is getting at the top 3 nuts on the tcase. :crazyeyes:

You'll need some kind of programmer to switch the 4lo to the 4:1 or you'l go into limp mode. Can't answer the Traildash question
Click to expand...

Shit. I used 2x4’s screwed together as a frame and a floor jack. I was by myself. I didn’t get it in, the first day. The second day, for some reason, I got it to go right in. Talk about a MF job! Buy a cheap transmission jack.


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Ddays said:
Without a transmission jack, 452 hours. With one, mine took about 6-7 hours. Trying to balance the tcase on a floor jack and maneuver it at the same time by yourself was an excercise in frustration. I quit and bought the jenner jack at Harbor Freight and it was worth it. Also, my transmission crossmember was so beat to shit I couldn't get it to go back in until I unleashed the Heavy Duty cuss words and 5# sledge. The most difficult part is getting at the top 3 nuts on the tcase. :crazyeyes:

You'll need some kind of programmer to switch the 4lo to the 4:1 or you'l go into limp mode. Can't answer the Traildash question
Click to expand...

Mines pretty beat. Was considering leaving my cross member in. I know lifting the tcase wasn’t that bad. But I know trying to bench it and hold it would be a pain. May barrow someone’s trans jack


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