Looking for Trial&Error experiences feedback Frankenstein lift

[FrankJTRSARG3]

22 JTR auto ended up adding mopar lift after purchase in 21” added 1 inch teraflex spacer in the front and lower correction coil pads to help with “bowing” since then I’ve added apex steering components and winch bumper etc. for sometime I notice the front sits 1/2 inch lower than back. And when flexing on trails sway bar link makes contact with coil.

I’ve received few different suggestion on how I should go on my set up from local companies.

most of them they want me adding their entire lift system. At this time it’s not in the budget.

one suggestion that I am leaning more forward to is adding a 3.5 teraflex coil spring and removing the spacer in the front. Still keeping the mopar coil springs in the rear and fox shocks all around. This will set me level and get rid of contact with sway bars. I’m also adding the lower adjustable control arms to help with keeping axle center. Both of this components. Fall right on my current spending abilities. I do the work with exception of alignment.

for those who’ve run the same set up and experience similar issues. What feedback can be given? Pic of my current mopar springs at the sway bar link

 

[jeeeep]

From my research, the Mopar lift is designed to mimic the oem ride and not meant for the heavier bumper and winch. The coil correction pads and spacers are probably adding more of what you don't want.

Do you have an adjustable track bar?

TF coils for the JT are a progressive dual-rate coil and having run similar progressive coils in the past on my heavy JKU, the top remains collapsed losing what you are trying to achieve.

I'd recommend using Clayton Offroad 3.5" coils, they are designed for the aftermarket weight you have on the front end and avoid progressive rate coils. Have you checked that your shocks/bump stops are correct length to support 3.5" lift on front?

 

[FrankJTRSARG3]

From my research, the Mopar lift is designed to mimic the oem ride and not meant for the heavier bumper and winch. The coil correction pads and spacers are probably adding more of what you don't want.

Do you have an adjustable track bar?

TF coils for the JT are a progressive dual-rate coil and having run similar progressive coils in the past on my heavy JKU, the top remains collapsed losing what you are trying to achieve.

I'd recommend using Clayton Offroad 3.5" coils, they are designed for the aftermarket weight you have on the front end and avoid progressive rate coils. Have you checked that your shocks/bump stops are correct length to support 3.5" lift on front?

I have Clayton’s front adjustable track bar and apex DL/TR and fox ats Steering stabilizer. Clayton is at the top of my list to do the full kit when time permits with probably the falcon quick adjust shocks. What I’m trying to achieve now is ensure my suspension parts don’t make contact with each other when flexing and if it can sit level that’s a plus. Because I’m adding a 3.5 TF coil. The plush will more likely be eliminated due to the front end weight. Leaving with a more stiff solid ride kinda what the current mopar shocks are set up for. And ride will hopefully stay the same as now if not more planted to the ground.

 

[jeeeep]

I have Clayton’s front adjustable track bar and apex DL/TR and fox ats Steering stabilizer. Clayton is at the top of my list to do the full kit when time permits with probably the falcon quick adjust shocks. What I’m trying to achieve now is ensure my suspension parts don’t make contact with each other when flexing and if it can sit level that’s a plus. Because I’m adding a 3.5 TF coil. The plush will more likely be eliminated due to the front end weight. Leaving with a more stiff solid ride kinda what the current mopar shocks are set up for. And ride will hopefully stay the same as now if not more planted to the ground.

Actually, it won't, you don't want the progressive coil in a constant state of compression, you won't get the lift you are trying to achieve and the ride will suck worse.

Give TF a call and ask what the spring rate is then give Clayton a call and talk to them about what you are trying to achieve (btw, the spring rate for Clayton is 188 lb/in) In the past they also offered a heavier spring for those that had a lot of weight on the front.

 

[FrankJTRSARG3]

Actually, it won't, you don't want the progressive coil in a constant state of compression, you won't get the lift you are trying to achieve and the ride will suck worse.

Give TF a call and ask what the spring rate is then give Clayton a call and talk to them about what you are trying to achieve (btw, the spring rate for Clayton is 188 lb/in) In the past they also offered a heavier spring for those that had a lot of weight on the front.

Clayton pointed me to the lift they have 2.5/3/5
Same with evo.

TF didn’t responded

RK also mention adding a taller spring to my front will give me what I’m looking for

the suggestion for TF coil springs came from a shop after they look into my set up I’m thinking adding lower control arms to make sure my axle sits straight

also called other shops but they need to see vehicle and I stay in central LA in order to make it to a shop I have to be stuck in traffic for over an hour/miss a day of work since they only open weekday.

 

[wayoflife]

one suggestion that I am leaning more forward to is adding a 3.5 teraflex coil spring and removing the spacer in the front.

Just because a lift coil states a specific height does NOT mean it will yield that amount of lift. More times than not, they yield a LOT more lift than is advertised and I personally have found this to be the case with Teraflex coils. Just something to keep in mind.

I’m also adding the lower adjustable control arms to help with keeping axle center.

So that it isn't missed, your axle travels in an arc and designed to make full and centered contact with the bump stop at full compression. Using adjustable lower control arms to give your axle a more "centered look" will in fact do nothing more than push your axle too far forward and at cause misalignment at a full bump. It will also cause other issues like axle bowing and your track bar will make contact with the differential. Any adjustment of your lower arms should be minimal and if adjustable uppers are not being installed at the same time, only to add in a bit more caster.

 

[kevman65]

Call Jeremy @Disciple Off Road and give him a chance to look at it.

 

[FrankJTRSARG3]

Just because a lift coil states a specific height does NOT mean it will yield that amount of lift. More times than not, they yield a LOT more lift than is advertised and I personally have found this to be the case with Teraflex coils. Just something to keep in mind.

So that it isn't missed, your axle travels in an arc and designed to make full and centered contact with the bump stop at full compression. Using adjustable lower control arms to give your axle a more "centered look" will in fact do nothing more than push your axle too far forward and at cause misalignment at a full bump. It will also cause other issues like axle bowing and your track bar will make contact with the differential. Any adjustment of your lower arms should be minimal and if adjustable uppers are not being installed at the same time, only to add in a bit more caster.

So, adding the upper adjustable CA now will be more beneficial to my set up?

 

[FrankJTRSARG3]

Call Jeremy @Disciple Off Road and give him a chance to look at it.

They are too far north. I’m in SoCal 90002

 

[kevman65]

You're going to have to take the time for someone to diagnose your problems. Trying to do it over the internet just turns into a long, drawn out mess that can go wrong with just one muddled description.

My closest 4x4 shop is another State, 3 hours away.

 

[wayoflife]

So, adding the upper adjustable CA now will be more beneficial to my set up?

Not necessarily.

 

[FrankJTRSARG3]

You're going to have to take the time for someone to diagnose your problems. Trying to do it over the internet just turns into a long, drawn out mess that can go wrong with just one muddled description.

My closest 4x4 shop is another State, 3 hours away.

The TF 3.5 springs suggestion came from a off-road shop in mission viejo CA while I was out there last year they took a look into it and suggested adding the 3.5 TF coil spring and removing my front springs with the 1 inch spacer. Because of my distance now and time and budget. I’ll be doing the work my self and taking it to a local shop for allotment only. They said my problem was due to not having enough spring in the front causing the contact with my sway bar

 

[ScoobyCarolanNC]

So you have 2 issues right? 1) Sometimes there's 1/2" droop & 2) swaybar contact. How do you 'sometimes' have a 1/2" difference? If its on flat level ground is it level? If so then its level. If the sway bar is making contact then maybe your links are too long and you need to move the bar down. Get some adjustable links, like the EVO HDs. Or the axle isnt centered well and your track bar needs to be adjusted. To me, that might be your issue because you mentioned the springs being bowed. Those spring alignment pads & spacers might just be masking the real issue or making it worse. I ran synergy 2.5's on my JL and EVO' 2.5 on my JT. Both were north of 3" of lift and designed for heavy front ends. Synergy's springs are flat ground on the bottom and didnt require any pads to be strtaight with their spring pads. I've got a tiny bit of bow with the EVOs but my truck is level looking, the suspension fully cycles with no contact, and its aligned dead on because I followed Eddie's instructions here.

 

[WJCO]

Looking for Trial&Error experiences feedback Frankenstein lift.

teraflex

Error.

 

[FrankJTRSARG3]

So you have 2 issues right? 1) Sometimes there's 1/2" droop & 2) swaybar contact. How do you 'sometimes' have a 1/2" difference? If its on flat level ground is it level? If so then its level. If the sway bar is making contact then maybe your links are too long and you need to move the bar down. Get some adjustable links, like the EVO HDs. Or the axle isnt centered well and your track bar needs to be adjusted. To me, that might be your issue because you mentioned the springs being bowed. Those spring alignment pads & spacers might just be masking the real issue or making it worse. I ran synergy 2.5's on my JL and EVO' 2.5 on my JT. Both were north of 3" of lift and designed for heavy front ends. Synergy's springs are flat ground on the bottom and didnt require any pads to be strtaight with their spring pads. I've got a tiny bit of bow with the EVOs but my truck is level looking, the suspension fully cycles with no contact, and its aligned dead on because I followed Eddie's instructions here.

When sitting on level ground I’m about 1/2 inch lower on the front then back I don’t drive with alot of weight in the bed to compensate for the front been lower. So it always looks lower in front. As for alignment 2 different shops had done it in the past and it never corrected the issue with my sway bar link according to their techs everything is up to specs

as for the position of sway bar. It’s almost horizontal when level ground I will look into longer/adjustable sway bar links once I install the front springs and take measurements to install them correctly.
The sway bar contact only happen when flexed and it’s more on the driver side than passenger. The bowing is more on driver side passenger looks straight.

 

[ScoobyCarolanNC]

When sitting on level ground I’m about 1/2 inch lower on the front then back I don’t drive with alot of weight in the bed to compensate for the front been lower. So it always looks lower in front. As for alignment 2 different shops had done it in the past and it never corrected the issue with my sway bar link according to their techs everything is up to specs

as for the position of sway bar. It’s almost horizontal when level ground I will look into longer/adjustable sway bar links once I install the front springs and take measurements to install them correctly.
The sway bar contact only happen when flexed and it’s more on the driver side than passenger. The bowing is more on driver side passenger looks straight.

So what i'm recommending is maybe shorter, not longer, sway link length. This way the bar doesn't travel up as far. Be careful that the link doesn't go straight on the bar end and invert during full axle drop. What were the thrust angles the alignment shops gave you? Did you get one of those before & after print outs? If the thrust isn't zeroed your axles aren't aligned. Frankly, "up to spec" is just a different way to say "we were to lazy to finish the job." Follow the instructions here and do it yourself:

WRITE-UP : Basic DIY Jeep JL Wrangler FRONT END ALIGNMENT

If you've just installed a brand new lift on your Jeep JL Wrangler and are wanting to get it aligned, there are a couple of things you should know before you take it to a shop and pay to have it done. First, unless you've installed new aftermarket components such as an adjustable track bar...

wayalife.com

I got a set of these to dial mine in perfectly:

Synergy Steering Alignment Plates

Synergy Steering Alignment Plates

www.synergymfg.com

 

[FrankJTRSARG3]

So what i'm recommending is maybe shorter, not longer, sway link length. This way the bar doesn't travel up as far. Be careful that the link doesn't go straight on the bar end and invert during full axle drop. What were the thrust angles the alignment shops gave you? Did you get one of those before & after print outs? If the thrust isn't zeroed your axles aren't aligned. Frankly, "up to spec" is just a different way to say "we were to lazy to finish the job." Follow the instructions here and do it yourself:

WRITE-UP : Basic DIY Jeep JL Wrangler FRONT END ALIGNMENT

If you've just installed a brand new lift on your Jeep JL Wrangler and are wanting to get it aligned, there are a couple of things you should know before you take it to a shop and pay to have it done. First, unless you've installed new aftermarket components such as an adjustable track bar...

wayalife.com

I got a set of these to dial mine in perfectly:

Synergy Steering Alignment Plates

Synergy Steering Alignment Plates

www.synergymfg.com

I’ll look into those plates and do it my self. As for the position of sway sitting level Does it need to be horizontal or slightly upwards. Right now it’s slightly upward. I download a level on my phone and shows the degree. It’s different from each side by almost a full degree. Showing my passenger side that makes contact it’s more upwards by a full degree

 

[FrankJTRSARG3]

I’ll look into those plates and do it my self. As for the position of sway sitting level Does it need to be horizontal or slightly upwards. Right now it’s slightly upward. I download a level on my phone and shows the degree. It’s different from each side by almost a full degree. Showing my passenger side that makes contact it’s more upwards by a full degree

I placed my phone on the flat part where link connects

 

[FrankJTRSARG3]

I’ll look into those plates and do it my self. As for the position of sway sitting level Does it need to be horizontal or slightly upwards. Right now it’s slightly upward. I download a level on my phone and shows the degree. It’s different from each side by almost a full degree. Showing my passenger side that makes contact it’s more upwards by a full degree

I can clearly see my passenger coil more forward then the driver side.

 

[dchew]

That passenger coil doesn't look seated / oriented correctly but I don't know JT's.

Dave