Yup, which brings us back to too deep of bend in the arms. Honestly, I can't see why they put that much in. They recommend some of the lowest backspacing I've ever seen suggested by lift manufacturers.
Need an Adjustable Rear Track Bar Shorter than Factory
- Thread starter Cadima
- Start date
Yup, which brings us back to too deep of bend in the arms. Honestly, I can't see why they put that much in. They recommend some of the lowest backspacing I've ever seen suggested by lift manufacturers.
If they would just move the jamb nuts down the arm or to the opposite side, there'd be tons of room. I'll have a look at my buddies arms and it they're the same I am going to throw in the towel and either get some different upper arms or cut small relief holes in the frame. There's already a bunch of holes and slots in the frames so I dont think it would be an issue. Bugs me that I have to do that, though.
Another option I thought of was to machine down the outer side of the joint bushing and shim the CA outward a bit. Kinda brainstorming here....
Another option I thought of was to machine down the outer side of the joint bushing and shim the CA outward a bit. Kinda brainstorming here....
olram30
Not That Kind of Engineer
Crown sells rear uppers for 30 bucks a piece. I would buy those and it would solve your problem. Send back the ones you have to mc for more r&d. This whole theory of too much droop or blaming skids is crazy. You shouldn't have to notch your frame either. Just my opinion.
piginajeep
The Original Smartass
Bumping to update and eat my words a bit...
Before the Rubicon run Eddie took us to a place to flex test our rigs. I honestly wasn't worried about the flex test but wanted to test the 4WD and lockers after the 2500 mile drive. While they worked great I did learn some things about my flex.
I have carried "A" tire several times with my bumps and setup working fine, but where Eddie took us I carried two and then sat there for a bit. This showed me two things. One, I need more front bump, and two. I have the same issue as the OP on the rear arms. Although I do not believe it to be a severe as the arm contact did not leave a mark on the frame.
Eddie snagged a picture (maybe he will post it up).
I do not plan to address the rear frame contact as it isn't that bad. But I will need to add at least another 1/2" of front bump.
I just wanted to update my information here....
Before the Rubicon run Eddie took us to a place to flex test our rigs. I honestly wasn't worried about the flex test but wanted to test the 4WD and lockers after the 2500 mile drive. While they worked great I did learn some things about my flex.
I have carried "A" tire several times with my bumps and setup working fine, but where Eddie took us I carried two and then sat there for a bit. This showed me two things. One, I need more front bump, and two. I have the same issue as the OP on the rear arms. Although I do not believe it to be a severe as the arm contact did not leave a mark on the frame.
Eddie snagged a picture (maybe he will post it up).
I do not plan to address the rear frame contact as it isn't that bad. But I will need to add at least another 1/2" of front bump.
I just wanted to update my information here....
Yep, extreme opposing flex or getting "twisted up" is one of the best way to really see what is working, what isn't and what could use some help. Cindy and I use this obstacle to test out our Jeeps all the time and I'm glad that we were able to get you on it as well. As you've mentioned, the contact with the jam nut was minimal and I wouldn't give it a second thought. Here's a shot of what it looked like.
Here are a couple of shots of your Jeep all twisted up.
metalic
Member
Yep, extreme opposing flex or getting "twisted up" is one of the best way to really see what is working, what isn't and what could use some help. Cindy and I use this obstacle to test out our Jeeps all the time and I'm glad that we were able to get you on it as well. As you've mentioned, the contact with the jam nut was minimal and I wouldn't give it a second thought. Here's a shot of what it looked like.
Here are a couple of shots of your Jeep all twisted up.
Exactly. I ran up a rti ramp and bumped accordingly it wasn't till this weekend I got twisted up enough to find out I didn't have enough in the rear.
Attachments
Did you happen to notice if your rear bump was bottomed out when you saw the arm contact? Thanks
Interesting. Trying to understand why I couldn't get my rear bump to stuff what my original goal when I found this arm contact. I ended up taking a BFH to the surface of the frame adjacent the jambnut and dent it in just a bit. It did just that with little effort, and I gained about a .150" of extra clearance to the jambnut. Went back to the RTI ramp and still couldnt bottom out the bump stop yet the nut didn't contact. It would appear to me the rear coils just get progressively too stiff for my weight. Perhaps I need to corner load it as well to check that since the RTI ramp only loads the front tire?
At any rate, it seems the arm interference is just casual and not the root cause of my inability to employ the rear bump stops on a ramp.
At any rate, it seems the arm interference is just casual and not the root cause of my inability to employ the rear bump stops on a ramp.
How much lift did your coils yield and how tall are your bump stop extensions?
I did take more pics but Im not sure if they help....didnt help MC see anything at least
If there's a particular location you'd like to see, I can go dig some pics up. I do want to mention again the suspension cycles without coils and sway bar fully to complete stuff with no binding or interference of any kind. So really, if I eliminated the jamb nut interference and knowing it cycles with no issues without the coils....seems to me the coils have to be it. And maybe that's not such a bad scenario but it hurts my ego when the club has an RTI show down and I still have an inch and half left on the bump when the opposing tire lifts off
I did take more pics but Im not sure if they help....didnt help MC see anything at least
I do want to mention again the suspension cycles without coils and sway bar fully to complete stuff with no binding or interference of any kind. So really, if I eliminated the jamb nut interference and knowing it cycles with no issues without the coils....seems to me the coils have to be it. And maybe that's not such a bad scenario but it hurts my ego when the club has an RTI show down and I still have an inch and half left on the bump when the opposing tire lifts off
I guess I was wanting to see if your coil is going solid (metal to metal) at a full stuff. If that's happening, then yeah, there's no way you could go full bump.
As far as RTI ramps go, I wouldn't concern yourself with that too much. The reality is, everyone ramps at about the same range plus or minus just a hair unless you've got coil overs.
Sorry for my lack of response but it looks like Eddie has you covered. (I'm back to work now and was busy in a meeting.)
The only thing I will add is the spring rate of the MC rear coils makes it tough to stuff unless fully loaded. This is actually about as far as I've ever stuffed the rear :yup:.
and was busy in a meeting.)The only thing I will add is the spring rate of the MC rear coils makes it tough to stuff unless fully loaded. This is actually about as far as I've ever stuffed the rear :yup:.
I did take more pics but Im not sure if they help....didnt help MC see anything at least
I do want to mention again the suspension cycles without coils and sway bar fully to complete stuff with no binding or interference of any kind. So really, if I eliminated the jamb nut interference and knowing it cycles with no issues without the coils....seems to me the coils have to be it. And maybe that's not such a bad scenario but it hurts my ego when the club has an RTI show down and I still have an inch and half left on the bump when the opposing tire lifts off
Tons of coil left. You can also see where I added more bump stop based on cycling the suspension yet the extra puck doesn't even begin to touch the rubber bump pad.
I will keep an eye out for an opportunity to put it into a more of a CTI loading and see if it changes things. Not too worried about it now that I confirmed my arms aren't being ass jambed into the frame and locking me up.
I appreciate the help, you guys.