PR44 vs. PR60

[wayoflife]

I just saw on northridges site that full traction makes a kit for those that have a radius arm lift, it comes with a frame mount and new upper arm so you can go back to true four link. Worth a look to save money.

It's a great solution. With it, you don't have to throw out the baby with the bathwater. :yup:

Still have the front factory mounts on the Jeep. The rear mounts are gone, but I have been throwing the idea of three linking the rear. Any thoughts on the three links.

A 3-link rear would be great but I think the only true 3-link kit out there requires you to remove your gas tank and install a smaller TJ style one in the back. Not sure if it's worth it.

 

[rtguy1]

Not sure what you're basing your opinion on - I've run RCV's on a PR44 and while I'll admit they are nice, they are far from being perfect. Yes, they do have very strong joints but, their shafts are SMALLER than a 60 shaft and that's exactly where they end up breaking. I have been pushing my 60 on 40's with u-joints for over 3 years and over 60,000 miles now and have NEVER had an issue. I would take my 60 with u-joints over a 44 with RCV's any day of the week. But, that's just me.

seems when u break stuff of that caliber of construction and quality that u can find a way to break anything. i thought I read a post from you somewhere about you busting up a 60? maybe i'm mistaken. either way a 60 is def better, esp for 40's.

 

[wayoflife]

seems when u break stuff of that caliber of construction and quality that u can find a way to break anything. i thought I read a post from you somewhere about you busting up a 60? maybe i'm mistaken. either way a 60 is def better, esp for 40's.

Oh yeah, broke a rear semi-float rear axle but totally saw that one coming. Had the full float PR60's been available back in the day, we would have been running it and wouldn't of had that problem. Of course, for the purposes of this conversation, we're talking about front axles. Again, I've owned and run both a PR44 with RCV's and still run a PR60 with u-joint shafts and would take it any day of the week. I would even go so far as to say that I prefer to run standard chromoly shafts with full circle clips over RCV's. They are nice but not worth the significant extra cost - at least not for me anyway. :yup:

 

[Holeshot]

Correct my if I'm wrong but, RCV's are not supposed to be lifetime warranty?

 

[rtguy1]

i see. i thought i recalled something along those lines. now u r making wish i held out and went to a 60 up front as well....lol :sigh: this thread will haunt me if i bust up my pr44 or snap an rcv :gaah: i will def be putting it to the test, although i am only going to be turning 37" nitto tg's.

 

[wayoflife]

Correct my if I'm wrong but, RCV's are not supposed to be lifetime warranty?

Actually, I think they are but, a warranty doesn't do much for you when you break on the trail. Worse, when you break a shaft deep inside your axle housing on the trail.

i see. i thought i recalled something along those lines. now u r making wish i held out and went to a 60 up front as well....lol :sigh: this thread will haunt me if i bust up my pr44 or snap an rcv :gaah: i will def be putting it to the test, although i am only going to be turning 37" nitto tg's.

LOL!! I would think you'd be okay especially running 37's.

 

[rtguy1]

Correct my if I'm wrong but, RCV's are not supposed to be lifetime warranty?

regardless, i went to this setup so i have reliability and dont have to fix anything, especially on the trail. the warranty will not help me if i'm stranded on the trail. for me, having a 2 door w/ 37's is the only reason i went to the 44. if i had a heavier 4door, and 40's i would have gone to the front 60 100%. hope i didn't make a crucial mistake. time will tell. at least i could get a few :twocents: if i "need" to upgrade again....lol :brows:

 

[rtguy1]

Actually, I think they are but, a warranty doesn't do much for you when you break on the trail. Worse, when you break a shaft deep inside your axle housing on the trail.



LOL!! I would think you'd be okay especially running 37's.

lol...u beat me to it. i need to work on my "words per minute."

i hope so. i'm elbows deep in this build. just ask Jake or Mel at ORE...:crazyeyes:

 

[wayoflife]

regardless, i went to this setup so i have reliability and dont have to fix anything, especially on the trail. the warranty will not help me if i'm stranded on the trail. for me, having a 2 door w/ 37's is the only reason i went to the 44. if i had a heavier 4door, and 40's i would have gone to the front 60 100%. hope i didn't make a crucial mistake. time will tell. at least i could get a few :twocents: if i "need" to upgrade again....lol :brows:

You know, being a much lighter 2-door will work for you as well. You should be fine so long as you service your shafts and like anything, just make sure to replace the domes once they show signs of cracking, tearing or failing. Once compromised, there isn't much left to hold in the grease and the bearing inside will suffer.

 

[Holeshot]

I know breakage will not help on the trail but, PR44U and RCV's is my next summer setup and, I drive a 2dr and not planing on going higher than 37 either.

The fact is, at least if RCV's are lifetime warranty, you will not pay as much as 60 axles for replacement. I guess you only have to pay for shipping fees.

 

[wayoflife]

I know breakage will not help on the trail but, PR44U and RCV's is my next summer setup and, I drive a 2dr and not planing on going higher than 37 either.

The fact is, at least if RCV's are lifetime warranty, you will not pay as much as 60 axles for replacement. I guess you only have to pay for shipping fees.

If you play hard enough, breaks will happen. The real question you should be asking yourself is, when you do break, would you rather it be outside of your axle or in? Standard chromoly shafts with full circle clips WILL NOT fail the way factory shafts do and for me, there are a lot of other things you can do with an extra $400. But hey, that's just me.

 

[jeep-creep]

What is the price difference between a prorock 44& 60?

 

[wayoflife]

What is the price difference between a prorock 44& 60?

Depending on how you have it made, it can be close to twice the cost.

 

[Holeshot]

well, in my case, the rcv's comes in the 3000$ deal i had on the pr44u so i'm gonna take it like that :thumb: And if breaks happen, I'll just live with it :standing wave:

 

[wayoflife]

well, in my case, the rcv's comes in the 3000$ deal i had on the pr44u so i'm gonna take it like that :thumb: And if breaks happen, I'll just live with it :standing wave:

That is a deal and nobody is suggesting they're bad to have. They're good axles, just a bit far from being the best thing since sliced bread that many of its fans try to make it out to be.

 

[munstie]

It's a great solution. With it, you don't have to throw out the baby with the bathwater. :yup:



A 3-link rear would be great but I think the only true 3-link kit out there requires you to remove your gas tank and install a smaller TJ style one in the back. Not sure if it's worth it.

I definitely wouldn't want to swap out the tank. So by the sounds of it if you were in my shoes you would ditch the radius arms. With that being said what would be a good fix I still have factory front CA locations but the rear is gone. And if I was to put coilovers on my current setup I wouldn't really gain anything would I, and once again appreciate all the input

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.

 

[wayoflife]

I definitely wouldn't want to swap out the tank. So by the sounds of it if you were in my shoes you would ditch the radius arms. With that being said what would be a good fix I still have factory front CA locations but the rear is gone. And if I was to put coilovers on my current setup I wouldn't really gain anything would I, and once again appreciate all the input

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.

As is, if you were to run coil overs, no, you wouldn't be gaining anything in terms of flex. If it were me, I might give the Full Traction radius arm eliminator addition a try. Your lower arms are fine and that kit would just have you install new upper control arm mounts and use them with new links. That would put you at a true 4-link setup and for a lot less than starting all over again.

 

[munstie]

I guess that with the suspension I have makes it an overlander lol

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.

 

[munstie]

As is, if you were to run coil overs, no, you wouldn't be gaining anything in terms of flex. If it were me, I might give the Full Traction radius arm eliminator addition a try. Your lower arms are fine and that kit would just have you install new upper control arm mounts and use them with new links. That would put you at a true 4-link setup and for a lot less than starting all over again.

Alright did some digging not that deep yet, R.E. has a four link setup. Gotta check cost and see what I can keep from my current setup. Now on to the rear would you suggest three link or set that up as a four link as well. I did look at the radius arm rescue kit you suggested as well.

2011 JKU 3.5 R.E. Longarm lift.

 

[jeffj]

If I am off topic just let me know. I have noticed the trail series 60 is a lot cheaper. Would it be a big an upgrade to go with pr44 in the front and a trail series in the rear or is there a reason it's so much cheaper.