jeep-creep
New member
Real life abuse and technical difference between the two?
PR44 vs. PR60
- Thread starter munstie
- Start date
TLAW719
New member
If you can afford it I think it would be best to go with a PR60 up front and a PR60 full float rear. even if you are running 37's. IMHO it's better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it. breaks can get expensive so if you can limit the breaks why not. its expensive up front but could save you money in the long run.
jeffj
Caught the Bug
TLAW719 said:
You are right and I understand what your saying but with that big of a price difference it's worth taking a look at. I was thinking of just getting pr44 housing and using my insides from my 44. With rcv's and 4:88's and putting pro steers in it with the stock locker. And I'm entertaining the idea of a trail series 60. I would appreciate some input because I have not heard much about them.
ProfessionalDriver
New member
I believe that's correct. On NR4x4's website, there is an option for the Pro Rock Housing Upgrade though. :thumb:
jeffj
Caught the Bug
Thanks for the info. After looking on northridges web sight it's only 400$ difference. I know this has been gone over and over. But with 37's and a heavier 4 door would the pr44 hold up. My big thing is the width of the 60 living in the east tiring to fit between the trees. Also with 37's should I go with the full float. I really don't understand the difference other than it sound stronger.
A PR44 will hold up just fine with 37's even on a heavier 4-door. Trust me, I speak from experience here. Regarding the rear, it's hard to be a full float regardless of how big of a tire you're planning to run but, we never had issues with our semi-float PR60 until we started to play on 40's.
The difference is that with a semi-float, your axle shafts do the work of turning your wheels AND holding your jeep up. For the most part, this is fine but, the flanges can still bend due to the weight of your Jeep and abuse that you put on them. A full-float will have your axle shafts just do it's primary job - turning your wheels. The weight of your Jeep will be held up by the spindle. It's not only a stronger setup but a more versatile one too. If you break a shaft, you can still run without any issues. If you break a flange, getting off the trail because a lot harder.
jeffj
Caught the Bug
Just found out a little info that I thought I would share. If you go with the cut down 60 in the back you can't get the full float. Like wol and dynatrac said for 37's I should be good. For the front I'm going to go with pr44 and use my built up parts from my stock 44 and use the stock locker. I'm going to get arb in the back. Is it going to be a problem with the switch on the front. I would assume I would have to push it twice to engage the front.
Are you referring to a ProRock 60 when talking about "the cut down 60"? If so, I'm not sure where you heard that from but, I'm running one now as is GCM 2, brainchild and a host of other people.
Regarding your lockers, if you're good with electrical stuff, you can wire it in so that your factory switch activates your front and rear lockers. At least, Off Road Evolution was able to do that for us.
If that's the case, I believe that would be correct and I had mentioned as much earlier, I just wasn't sure what was meant by "cut down".
What do you mean by "cut down"? Are you referring to the shape of the diff?
Ah, got it. :thumb:
having the 44 built at 68.5" width to match the rear 60 is an option as well. :brows: