PR60 Rear or Build up stock axle?

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
I'll be going with the 5.13 as well. If I ever upgrade to 40's, which I seriously doubt now, I think that 5.13 and an PR60 in the front would still work fine.

With a set of 40's, 5.38 is really the ratio that you want but yes, 5.13's will work fine too.

I know that you run Rubi-Cat with a PR44 front and an PR60 rear and you are happy, right?

Yes, that's what I'm running now only I am now running 5.38 gears. Having run it and 5.13's with 37's in the past, I can tell you that for me personally, I wish I still was running 5.13's. Again, for me, 5.13's are a better match. While I am running our old 40's on Rubicat right now, it was more for brake testing than anything and I will be dropping back down to 37's as soon as I get my hands on some new tires.
 

Irish JK

Caught the Bug
What might change this whole topic is the addition of the Dynatrac PR60XD semi float. I believe they have said this will be available in 5x5 and stock jk width. With Dynatracs own made in American axle shafts, I'm sure the flanges will be plenty strong for all but ridiculous torture on 37s. The benefit of going to a 60xd ring gear will actually provide measurable difference from a 44 vs a 60 to 44.
 

JAGS

Hooked
Likely speaking out of turn here, but can't one also get a front pr44 with 60 outers? Vengeance did this right?

For most it boils down to price and "need" for all these upgrades. But it's fun to read the conversation.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
What might change this whole topic is the addition of the Dynatrac PR60XD semi float. I believe they have said this will be available in 5x5 and stock jk width. With Dynatracs own made in American axle shafts, I'm sure the flanges will be plenty strong for all but ridiculous torture on 37s. The benefit of going to a 60xd ring gear will actually provide measurable difference from a 44 vs a 60 to 44.

Agreed. The XD60 is a great setup.

Likely speaking out of turn here, but can't one also get a front pr44 with 60 outers? Vengeance did this right?

For most it boils down to price and "need" for all these upgrades. But it's fun to read the conversation.

Yes, you could do a hybrid setup up front but really, I'd only go that route if you were doing something like what we did with Vengeance. For it, we did a really low build and clearance at the diff was needed. For the cost, just getting a ProRock 60 would be the better way to go.
 

metalic

Member
Likely speaking out of turn here, but can't one also get a front pr44 with 60 outers? Vengeance did this right?

For most it boils down to price and "need" for all these upgrades. But it's fun to read the conversation.

Agreed. The XD60 is a great setup.



Yes, you could do a hybrid setup up front but really, I'd only go that route if you were doing something like what we did with Vengeance. For it, we did a really low build and clearance at the diff was needed. For the cost, just getting a ProRock 60 would be the better way to go.

Why must vengeance be mentioned. Every time I hear that word I Google a pic of that fine machine and great cause wishing I could od afforded to bid on it.
 

CJW

New member
Yes, that's what I'm running now only I am now running 5.38 gears. Having run it and 5.13's with 37's in the past, I can tell you that for me personally, I wish I still was running 5.13's. Again, for me, 5.13's are a better match. While I am running our old 40's on Rubicat right now, it was more for brake testing than anything and I will be dropping back down to 37's as soon as I get my hands on some new tires.

Can I ask what made you decide on a full float rear for Rubicat instead of the semi float for running 37s? I'm really just trying to understand where the cut off point is for one vrs another. Thanks!
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
Can I ask what made you decide on a full float rear for Rubicat instead of the semi float for running 37s? I'm really just trying to understand where the cut off point is for one vrs another. Thanks!

If I'm not mistaken, Rubicat got the old PR60 from Moby when Eddie upgraded Moby to the PR80. So likely because they already owned the full float PR60.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Can I ask what made you decide on a full float rear for Rubicat instead of the semi float for running 37s? I'm really just trying to understand where the cut off point is for one vrs another. Thanks!

If I'm not mistaken, Rubicat got the old PR60 from Moby when Eddie upgraded Moby to the PR80. So likely because they already owned the full float PR60.

What he said ^^^

Rubicat got Moby's old full float 60.
 

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
Can I ask what made you decide on a full float rear for Rubicat instead of the semi float for running 37s? I'm really just trying to understand where the cut off point is for one vrs another. Thanks!

CJW,

I cannot say for sure, but wanted to share my thoughts as to why I am going with a full-float rear XD60. It really boiled down breaking a rear axle shaft. If I were to ever so do, then I could still get home under the full float construction. Also, the full float axles stress the rear axles less, since the weight of the vehicle is on the bearings contained in the housing and not on the axle itself. The axle pretty much only encounters the torque of the drive. I know that could be faulty thinking, based on no experience at all, but hey, it sounds good to me.
 

CJW

New member
CJW,

I cannot say for sure, but wanted to share my thoughts as to why I am going with a full-float rear XD60. It really boiled down breaking a rear axle shaft. If I were to ever so do, then I could still get home under the full float construction. Also, the full float axles stress the rear axles less, since the weight of the vehicle is on the bearings contained in the housing and not on the axle itself. The axle pretty much only encounters the torque of the drive. I know that could be faulty thinking, based on no experience at all, but hey, it sounds good to me.

Good input. Thank you!
 
Wow....talk about a thread hijack....lol!!!

Thank you all for your initial ideas. The ensuing discussion has been very educational so those who carried it on, thanks for the schooling. I love this forum as I learn stuff on here all the time. I installed my PR44 based on the knowledge base here on WoL, and I continue to do SENSIBLE mods based on the input and discussions here.

Thanks Eddie for carrying the ball forward with this forum. :rock::like::drinks:
 

jk12blk

New member
CJW,

I cannot say for sure, but wanted to share my thoughts as to why I am going with a full-float rear XD60. It really boiled down breaking a rear axle shaft. If I were to ever so do, then I could still get home under the full float construction. Also, the full float axles stress the rear axles less, since the weight of the vehicle is on the bearings contained in the housing and not on the axle itself. The axle pretty much only encounters the torque of the drive. I know that could be faulty thinking, based on no experience at all, but hey, it sounds good to me.
Are you going with 40 spline shafts in the XD60 rear? I ask because the price is the same as a PR80 if you go with 40 spline shafts. I'm currently working with Dynatrac on a axle upgrade myself. Anyway, something to think about as you make your decision. If you go with 35 spline shafts in the XD60 rear, I think it is a few hundred less than a PR80.
 

AllAmericanInfidel

Caught the Bug
Hi all.

Looking for some thoughts around whether to build up my stock 2012 Rubicon axle by putting in an ARB and alloy axles or go with a PR60 loaded out.

Cost is a big differentiator. Just curious as to tube strength of stock vs Dynatrac.

Im not planning to go higher than 35s. Currently, stock axle with 488s, 35s, stock electric locker

Thank you for your thoughts.

As others have mentioned, for 35s there is no need for either. If or when necessary, then build what you have. A PR60 or even a Trail 60 is way overkill for 35s. If you were going 37s I might suggest building a sport or Sahara rear axle because you can do 35 spline shafts and an ARB, and have equal length shafts. The Trail 60 would be a great option for 37s as well, but for 35s, I personally think your money could be best spent elsewhere. Heck, it has been suggested that I build my rear axle for 37s, which would be good for all but the most hard core stuff. Just my opinion.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Well that's definitely better than buying a new one lol !
If you didn't already have that would you have gone with a semi float?

A semi float ProRock 60 is what we originally got way back in the day. After years of hard use with 40's, we eventually broke a shaft at the flange on a really tough obstacle. After that, we made the expensive decision to convert our axle to a full float setup. That being said, we were running 40's, playing hard, playing often and the semi float setup still lasted quite a while.
 

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
A semi float ProRock 60 is what we originally got way back in the day. After years of hard use with 40's, we eventually broke a shaft at the flange on a really tough obstacle. After that, we made the expensive decision to convert our axle to a full float setup. That being said, we were running 40's, playing hard, playing often and the semi float setup still lasted quite a while.

Let's be honest though, you wheel 40x more than most people. So quite awhile is a damn good number
 

piginajeep

The Original Smartass
As others have mentioned, for 35s there is no need for either. If or when necessary, then build what you have. A PR60 or even a Trail 60 is way overkill for 35s. If you were going 37s I might suggest building a sport or Sahara rear axle because you can do 35 spline shafts and an ARB, and have equal length shafts. The Trail 60 would be a great option for 37s as well, but for 35s, I personally think your money could be best spent elsewhere. Heck, it has been suggested that I build my rear axle for 37s, which would be good for all but the most hard core stuff. Just my opinion.

The problem is with fast driving in the desert on 37's you will make the tubes smile.
 

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
Are you going with 40 spline shafts in the XD60 rear? I ask because the price is the same as a PR80 if you go with 40 spline shafts. I'm currently working with Dynatrac on a axle upgrade myself. Anyway, something to think about as you make your decision. If you go with 35 spline shafts in the XD60 rear, I think it is a few hundred less than a PR80.

I plan to go with the 32 spline axle shafts. I would have to disagree with you regarding price, the PR80 is still more, by almost $1,000 according to my super duper experienced google fu internet research. Also, you gain a lot more with the XD60, such as more ground clearance, more up travel and less weight. The PR80 is really great, but WAY TOO MUCH overkill for the 37 inch tires, in my opinion.

The problem is with fast driving in the desert on 37's you will make the tubes smile.

This times two. Thank you.

My driving will mostly be desert and the thought of getting stuck way out there broken down is a bit scary. Better to have something and not need than to need and not have it.

I hope to reach this achievement in life:

12107016_873639229380898_5532711905482223023_n.jpg

Just kidding, I am the happiest married father in the world.
 
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