Running 2 Amps off one battery

tonytony9

New member
No, it wont be a problem with the battery. If you play it a lot without the vehicle running, it will kill the battery, just like any other vehicle.

Run a single power, and go to a distribution block. Fuse power wire at battery, and a fused distribution block for each power wire to amp.

You dont need 1/0 for those amps. 4ga is plenty, as is 8ga from distribution to amps. Neither amp requires a ton of power.

You can also do a ground distribution block, or just ground to a good spot for each amp.

Cap will be a waste of time and money. Set your gains appropriately. They are not volume knobs.

If you need any install pieces, let me know. I have quite a bit hanging out in the garage.

^^^^^this is great thank you, I'll message you
 

tonytony9

New member
Run the biggest wire possible for the amps. If they can only accept an 8 gauge then use that or if it can accept a 4 gauge use that and so on. The manual to the JL amp will tell you how to set the gain based on AC voltage while playing a 50hz tone for the sub. You use a 1khz tone for mids. You don't have to buy a complete amp kit. You can go to any reputable stereo shop and buy the wire by the foot as well as fuse holders and distribution blocks.

Okay perfect, you think it will come out a lot cheaper then? I'm really not looking to spend another $120 on just freaking wires ahha.
 

utiadam

LOSER
Okay perfect, you think it will come out a lot cheaper then? I'm really not looking to spend another $120 on just freaking wires ahha.

It shouldn't be too bad for 4 gauge but the fuse and distribution blocks can add up quick. I think mine were:
JL battery terminals: $50 x 4
JL main fuse holder: $50
JL fused distribution block: $40
JL non fused distribution block: $50
 

tonytony9

New member
It shouldn't be too bad for 4 gauge but the fuse and distribution blocks can add up quick. I think mine were:
JL battery terminals: $50 x 4
JL main fuse holder: $50
JL fused distribution block: $40
JL non fused distribution block: $50

Ya right there alone it would be worth just running two kits then because that's already like $200+
 

utiadam

LOSER
Ya right there alone it would be worth just running two kits then because that's already like $200+

But you don't have to use JL audio terminals. Plus you don't need battery terminals. Only 1 main fuse block and 1 fused distribution block.
 

tonytony9

New member
But you don't have to use JL audio terminals. Plus you don't need battery terminals. Only 1 main fuse block and 1 fused distribution block.

I gotta do some research to figure out what exactly all that is and what I would need. Trying to make this a day project so I want to have everything I need and know exactly what I am putting in.
 

Spencer11496

New member
Okay perfect, you think it will come out a lot cheaper then? I'm really not looking to spend another $120 on just freaking wires ahha.

Do NOT go cheap on the wiring. Your audio system is only as good as the weakest link.

I initially got the cheapest wiring kit and the insulation is so thin it arced with the tub and started melting.

As for the battery, ru what you have till it dies then buy the biggest one you can.

Personally, I recommend the Polk DBi series components because they are marine rates and sound nice.

As for the tweeters, it all depends on how sharp you want your highs.

Once you get everything installed, check out crutch fields articles for tuning the system and setting the levels properly. Be sure to spend a lot of time doing this so you're completely happy with the system.

As much as people say Jeeps will never sound good, mine sounds great.
 

utiadam

LOSER
Do NOT go cheap on the wiring. Your audio system is only as good as the weakest link.

I initially got the cheapest wiring kit and the insulation is so thin it arced with the tub and started melting.

As for the battery, ru what you have till it dies then buy the biggest one you can.

Personally, I recommend the Polk DBi series components because they are marine rates and sound nice.

As for the tweeters, it all depends on how sharp you want your highs.

Once you get everything installed, check out crutch fields articles for tuning the system and setting the levels properly. Be sure to spend a lot of time doing this so you're completely happy with the system.

As much as people say Jeeps will never sound good, mine sounds great.

I agree with everything you said. My components aren't marine rated but they sound great. I used about 120sqft of dynamat as well. If you want pictures of anything you can check my build thread "my billet Rubi build"
 

Spencer11496

New member
I agree with everything you said. My components aren't marine rated but they sound great. I used about 120sqft of dynamat as well. If you want pictures of anything you can check my build thread "my billet Rubi build"

Dynamat is magical.

My only problem with the system is that after two years the subs have rattled loose the roll bar speakers, partly because I rushed and ended up halfway stripping them…
 

tonytony9

New member
Do NOT go cheap on the wiring. Your audio system is only as good as the weakest link.

I initially got the cheapest wiring kit and the insulation is so thin it arced with the tub and started melting.

As for the battery, ru what you have till it dies then buy the biggest one you can.

Personally, I recommend the Polk DBi series components because they are marine rates and sound nice.

As for the tweeters, it all depends on how sharp you want your highs.

Once you get everything installed, check out crutch fields articles for tuning the system and setting the levels properly. Be sure to spend a lot of time doing this so you're completely happy with the system.

As much as people say Jeeps will never sound good, mine sounds great.

hanks for the info. I have el_chupo trying to help me put together a good kit of wiring right now. I was considering the Polk speakers because they are marine rated (just incase the roof is left down in the rain 🙊🙊) but crutchfield said the kickers are better for my system
 

tonytony9

New member
I agree with everything you said. My components aren't marine rated but they sound great. I used about 120sqft of dynamat as well. If you want pictures of anything you can check my build thread "my billet Rubi build"

Dynamat's the sound material right? Is it pricey at all?
 

tonytony9

New member
So everyone then recommends me doing the one power cord system for the two Amps? Is it actually easier to instal that way? Seems a little more complicated but also sounds cheaper
 

Spencer11496

New member
hanks for the info. I have el_chupo trying to help me put together a good kit of wiring right now. I was considering the Polk speakers because they are marine rated (just incase the roof is left down in the rain 🙊🙊) but crutchfield said the kickers are better for my system

From experience, kicker components are overrated. Go ken wood or Polk. I've had all three.
 

Spencer11496

New member
When you look at speakers look at the frequency range. The larger the range the better. Also look at the RMS power rating. It's the only one that matters. The higher the better.
 

utiadam

LOSER
Dynamat's the sound material right? Is it pricey at all?

Yeah, dynamat is sound deadening. It is pricey. Msrp is around $350 for 36sqft. Best place to buy is on Amazon for around $140 for the same package.

So everyone then recommends me doing the one power cord system for the two Amps? Is it actually easier to instal that way? Seems a little more complicated but also sounds cheaper

It makes for a cleaner install and is easier to only run 1 cable through the firewall.
 

el_chupo_

Member
Dynamat is overpriced, and under performing vs better products that have been released over the past decade+. Second Skin, Sounddeadenershowdown.com SDS tiles, and a couple others. Don at SDS is a good guy, and has some of the most solid theory and outlines the use of products. it works, and it saves money and time.
 

tonytony9

New member
When you look at speakers look at the frequency range. The larger the range the better. Also look at the RMS power rating. It's the only one that matters. The higher the better.

Yep exactly. Don't want to spend more than $200 on the amo so I'm really only gonna be able to power about 100 watts per channel. I'm gonna be in around $900 kinda want to keep it around that.
 

tonytony9

New member
Yeah, dynamat is sound deadening. It is pricey. Msrp is around $350 for 36sqft. Best place to buy is on Amazon for around $140 for the same package.



It makes for a cleaner install and is easier to only run 1 cable through the firewall.

Haha think I'm gonna have to put that off for awhile then 😂
 

utiadam

LOSER
Yep exactly. Don't want to spend more than $200 on the amo so I'm really only gonna be able to power about 100 watts per channel. I'm gonna be in around $900 kinda want to keep it around that.

100 watts per channel is plenty. I have 2 4 channel amps - 1 for 4 tweeters and 1 for 4 mids which are both doing 70 watts rms. It goes rediculously loud and stays clean. Although I tuned all the amps with an oscilloscope.
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You basically play test tones for each amp and turn the gain up until the signal flat lines then back off until it's still curved.
 
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