Shark "Tank"

[MTG]

Never! I wouldn't put one on even if it was given to me wrapped in $100 bills.

*sadly he unwraps the $100 bills from his Christmas present he had planned to give away for months*

 

[Sharkey]

Shark "Tank"

Project time.

 

[WJCO]

Nice looking fuse box. What brand?

 

[Sharkey]

Shark "Tank"

Blue Sea, same with the circuit breaker. I’m debating how to mount everything and whether to put it all in a box.

Any clue what kind of temps can be expected under the hood?

 

[TrailHunter]

Is that for a switch setup? Or just extra fuses?

 

[Sharkey]

For a switch setup. There will be six relays set up (one is extra for now). Five switches in the cab.

 

[Sharkey]

Shark "Tank"

I’m trying to avoid the rat’s nest to the battery and couldn’t get myself to drop the coin on one of the aftermarket solutions. So, I decided to try to make something myself.

 

[WJCO]

Any clue what kind of temps can be expected under the hood?

If you have an infrared thermometer, you can check pretty quick. If not, i can check ours tomorrow after the wife comes back from dropping the kids off at school.

 

[Sharkey]

The box I am looking at is good to 248 degrees. Not sure if that is sufficient but I would think it should be.

 

[cozdude]

The box I am looking at is good to 248 degrees. Not sure if that is sufficient but I would think it should be.

Engine bay temps will be right around there if not slightly lower

 

[Sharkey]

Engine bay temps will be right around there if not slightly lower

That concerns me a bit. I don’t need the poly box melting.

This is what I was looking at:

https://www.polycase.com/sg-14

 

[OverlanderJK]

248*? I find that hard to believe. So I could put a water bottle under the hood and it would boil? Doubt it.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[WJCO]

That concerns me a bit. I don’t need the poly box melting.

This is what I was looking at:

https://www.polycase.com/sg-14

I think you'll be fine. I'll take some readings tomorrow, but if you think about it, you already have fuses and plastic under the hood that are likely still in tact and not melted.

 

[QuicksilverJK]

Shark "Tank"

The engine cooling system should stay below 210* and the engine itself shouldn't be much above that. The exhaust is hotter, but doesn't take up much room in the engine bay. I would be surprised with the volume of air and lack of positive sealing in the compartment if it even reached 200*


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[Sharkey]

I think you'll be fine. I'll take some readings tomorrow, but if you think about it, you already have fuses and plastic under the hood that are likely still in tact and not melted.

That’s what I was thinking but I’d love to see some measurements if you have time. Thank you. :beer:

 

[Sharkey]

The engine cooling system should stay below 210* and the engine itself shouldn't be much above that. The exhaust is hotter, but doesn't take up much room in the engine bay. I would be surprised with the volume of air and lack of positive sealing in the compartment if it even reached 200*


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

Makes sense, thank you.

 

[WJCO]

That’s what I was thinking but I’d love to see some measurements if you have time. Thank you. :beer:

Took some readings. Keep in mind, there are a ton of variables involved depending on lots of driving conditions, temps, etc, but I think you'll be just fine. Ambient temp was 25F but vehicle was at operating temperature. Also, this Jeep has no fender liners. I tried checking pieces of plastic that were high up but near the engine block itself. Nearly all temps were high 100s. For kicks, I checked the heat shield behind the exhaust manifold and it was reading 290ish.

 

[JeepFan]

I’m trying to avoid the rat’s nest to the battery and couldn’t get myself to drop the coin on one of the aftermarket solutions. So, I decided to try to make something myself.

I went with the very nicely packaged switch-pros system. Love how compact it is with minimal wires and small foot-print...It's expensive to be cheap!

 

[Sharkey]

I went with the very nicely packaged switch-pros system. Love how compact it is with minimal wires and small foot-print...It's expensive to be cheap!

I hear you. The parts I have purchased are far from cheap but I’m finding that the small footprint and mounting system is what makes the DIY the most difficult. Honestly though, the Blue Sea stuff is high enough grade that I could probably just mount it anywhere (without a box) and it would be fine.

 

[Sharkey]

Shark "Tank"

Doing some more test fitting today. We thought we would try a bit different switch panel than regularly run (at least I don’t recall seeing someone with this panel).

Like everything this week, I had to make some modifications. I’m not sure if it is the type of switches we bought or what, but they were hitting the top of the switch panel. With a little trimming I got it all worked out.

I think they look great and can’t wait to see them wired up and ready to go.





Stay tuned...the Shark Tank has a lot of changes coming its way.