Tea, Crumpets, and JK Dual Steering Stabilizers

Ok, I'm done with this thread. He obviously isn't looking for advice for his "bump steer" issue. Instead he's looking for a pat on the back for reinventing the bracket. ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1410125211.278374.jpg
 

JKUndaunted

New member
That's the point. Why add extra stuff that isn't needed. Are you suffering from dw and bump steer? As others have repeatedly mentioned, to much caster is going to crack your transfer case, you have either worn or lose suspension components or tires out of balance. Good luck in your quest to fix the real problem.
I appreciate your concern on the T-case but its not a problem. My t-case output and front pinion angle are within 1 degree of each other as my engine is mounted in such a way that it only has 1 degrees of rearward rake and the front pinion is at 0 degree to keep oil at the pinion. Basically my engine is quite low and my transmission is so high that I had cut out the crossmember directly behind the t-case and massage the floor with a bfh after I clocked the t-case. The driveshaft is at a mere 15 degree angle with roughly 3.5 lift. I went back to stock caster last month since the engine swap and the wobble got worse. I am on a quest to raise the track bar but im going to wales next week and scotland after that so the track bar relocation will have to wait. In the mean time the stabilizer will help. I never said it was permanent and am aware that it could accelerate wear in the box if im too hard on it.


Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

JKUndaunted

New member
And I have a custom front drive shaft with a single uj at each end.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

JKUndaunted

New member
not much info on your jeep in your profile - how much lift do you have? do you have an adjustable track bar? agree with cozdude - your caster is too much, while the extra SS has masked your issue, the caster angle can put a lot of strain on your transfer case and crack it.

have you rechecked the torque on the TF wheel spacers? did you remove the factory washer clips on the drums before installing the spacers?

you're on the right track about the track bar but...depends on how much lift you have, on my 3.5" lift I ordered the adjustable front track bar and it came with the proper bracket to keep it parallel with the drag link (no drag link flip needed) but it needs to be correct.

Figure out where the cause of the issue is before you make anymore changes, you may be adding additional stress to other components and facing other issues down the road.

I have a front 3.5 lift. Rear 0.75 lift, teraflex monster HD forged front track bar, the wheel spacers are correctly torqued to the upper end of the range and so are the wheels, the factory disc brake clips got taken off as soon as I removed the wheels the first time. The front track bar is at a slightly steeper angle than the drag link so that will be investigated next but its a big step to cut that off when its my DD and my xj is off the road. I have to make everything as I cant just drive to a jeep shop, hand over the cash and walk out with parts like you american guys. Lucky devils.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Sharkey

Word Ninja
You are just masking the real problem, and it will cost you a lot more down the road. Believe what you want though, it's your jeep.
 

JKUndaunted

New member
Ps- how is the 4.0 treating you??
I love the 4.0 david and couldn't be happier with the swap. I have no regrets dumping that crappy problematic CRDisease and hulking 545rfe gear hunter. The jeep is alot lighter now. :beer:


Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

JKUndaunted

New member
Oh not at all, it's 100% heartfelt truth. You aren't asking for advice, you're looking for a pat on the back for making a bracket and nothing more.

No need to get personal. I have tried to remedy this problem for a while and was desperate to stop it while I had a little bit of time left before 2 long trips. I appreciate all of your concerns and advice but in the UK we dont get the kind of aftermarket support that you guys get. Possibly 5% of the parts and thats being optimistic. Heck I need to call in a company with a huge van that fits agricultural and industrial plant tires to my house to fit the tires as nobody has a machine big enough around here! Its pathetic! Please dont think im not listening. I have other things too do than keep driving to the tire shop to let incompetent fools to balance my wheels "good enough". Maybe I should buy myself a tire balance machine next. Hahaha.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

TrailBear

New member
Does your lift have adjustable control arms or are you running factory arms? Did this happen before your engine swap or after? How old are your shocks?
 

David1tontj

New member
I love the 4.0 david and couldn't be happier with the swap. I have no regrets dumping that crappy problematic CRDisease and hulking 545rfe gear hunter. The jeep is alot lighter now. :beer:


Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app

Glad to hear! The guys may sound mean, but we are really just trying to help you in the long run. That was a good way to mount that 2nd stabilizer even if it is just a temp band-aid.

I understand why you did it- seeing as you don't have the time or money to throw at problems, but following eddies death wobble write-up should help you find the real cause.

Also though- be careful without that front swaybar!


My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.
 
No need to get personal. I have tried to remedy this problem for a while and was desperate to stop it while I had a little bit of time left before 2 long trips. I appreciate all of your concerns and advice but in the UK we dont get the kind of aftermarket support that you guys get. Possibly 5% of the parts and thats being optimistic. Heck I need to call in a company with a huge van that fits agricultural and industrial plant tires to my house to fit the tires as nobody has a machine big enough around here! Its pathetic! Please dont think im not listening. I have other things too do than keep driving to the tire shop to let incompetent fools to balance my wheels "good enough". Maybe I should buy myself a tire balance machine next. Hahaha.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app

Understandable. But please try to see it from our angle as well, people come to us with these same issues day in and day out looking for help with a problem they don't quite understand. Some of them only get a small taste of what Death Wobble is and others have actually sold their rigs because they got such an experience that it terrified them to drive it. We aren't here to point you in the wrong direction, many of us (myself included) have experienced a "True" Death Wobble and understand the mechanics of it and know how to fix it most of the time.
What everyone here is telling you about the dual stabilizers is spot on truth, you need to find the underlying problem first and foremost.
At the same time, I understand your dilemma of a good balancing machine, but please, please, don't fool yourself into trying a cheap quick remedy of balance beads, it will only make a bad situation worse, I'm telling you this from personal experience.
 

JKUndaunted

New member
Understandable. But please try to see it from our angle as well, people come to us with these same issues day in and day out looking for help with a problem they don't quite understand. Some of them only get a small taste of what Death Wobble is and others have actually sold their rigs because they got such an experience that it terrified them to drive it. We aren't here to point you in the wrong direction, many of us (myself included) have experienced a "True" Death Wobble and understand the mechanics of it and know how to fix it most of the time.
What everyone here is telling you about the dual stabilizers is spot on truth, you need to find the underlying problem first and foremost.
At the same time, I understand your dilemma of a good balancing machine, but please, please, don't fool yourself into trying a cheap quick remedy of balance beads, it will only make a bad situation worse, I'm telling you this from personal experience.

Ridge I thank you for your concern. I have read the DW thread and many others like it. the dw on my jk is not too bad as it only occurs at lower speeds in therefore not as violent due to slower rolling tires But it will not stop unless I stop so it is dw plus it only happens in 2 or 3 places. My xj was terrifying until I got a new track bar and rod end at the pitman arm. My quest to fix it continues but in the mean time if it aint shaking now its not shaking my jeeps steering box and that is the expensive part.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Ridge I thank you for your concern. I have read the DW thread and many others like it. the dw on my jk is not too bad as it only occurs at lower speeds in therefore not as violent due to slower rolling tires But it will not stop unless I stop so it is dw plus it only happens in 2 or 3 places. My xj was terrifying until I got a new track bar and rod end at the pitman arm. My quest to fix it continues but in the mean time if it aint shaking now its not shaking my jeeps steering box and that is the expensive part.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app

Ok, another cost free suggestion would be to retorque your track bar each and every time you have the DW or you'll just be chasing a ghost. At the same time, check for cracked or torn track bar mounts.
Edit: be sure to inspect the bolt holes in both of the track bar brackets. If you've had an episode of DW more than a few times it can cause the holes to become oval rather than round which will allow play in the Track bar and again allow the DW to occur.
 
Last edited:

JKUndaunted

New member
Ok, another cost free suggestion would be to retorque your track bar each and every time you have the DW or you'll just be chasing a ghost. At the same time, check for cracked or torn track bar mounts.

The track bar bolts are fine, Took them out while doing the engine swap and checked there condition. No damaged threads and not corroded or stretched and the holes are not wallowed out. The track bar bushings are solid. No movement there. The mounts are not cracked but when I make a new track bar mount on the axle it will be braced. I cant help but think the mount sticks out alot and is very narrow so a brace may help. The front track bar mount on the lhd jk's have a much larger span along the axle tube and even they can rip off.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

JKUndaunted

New member
Glad to hear! The guys may sound mean, but we are really just trying to help you in the long run. That was a good way to mount that 2nd stabilizer even if it is just a temp band-aid.

I understand why you did it- seeing as you don't have the time or money to throw at problems, but following eddies death wobble write-up should help you find the real cause.

Also though- be careful without that front swaybar!
The swaybar has been gone for a long time. The jeep handles much better with the 4.0 and stays much flatter than before. The life of my wheel bearings and ball joints has gone up considerably since that sway bar was removed as it was very thick and very hard on the ball joints and wheel bearings. The roads are rough around here.


Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

mrmet1983

New member
Clearly u don't want to listen to people on this thread and ur dual stabalizers are pointless !! U talk about waisting money yet u waisted all this time and money on a ridiculous bandaid maybes that's how land rovers guys are but we are diff. People have given u great info and u choose not to listen so that's on you good luck with your DW.


I don't always wheel , but when I do I keep it tight......... Stay dirty my friends.
 
Top Bottom