OscarMike2.0
New member
Are you referring to their old tie rod or the new one below? I was talking about the new one.
http://www.rockkrawler.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RK04383
Tie rod
- Thread starter metalic
- Start date
Are you referring to their old tie rod or the new one below? I was talking about the new one.
http://www.rockkrawler.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RK04383
Spudcannons
New member
Truthfully, I didn't know they had more than one design... :thinking::doh:
Spudcannons
New member
-1.75" OD 7075-T651 Aluminum (built to flex)
Spudcannons
New member
You where right. :clap2:
I would avoid putting aluminum near things I know I will bash on/into rocks.
Aluminium can be very strong and depending on the alloy mix have better memory than CM-steel.
OscarMike2.0
New member
Heres the old one that they have been selling for years.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16189_2137.htm
The new one I believe they just recently (within the past year) started selling.
I think one of the guys on the rubicon run had there new tie rod.
OscarMike2.0
New member
Thats the point. Unlike steel aluminum will usually flex where as a steel tie rod once flexed isnt going to go back to how it originally was (Atleast not without a lot of persuasion).
Yea, I know Rob has one and I think Dom does too (NY). One of Rob's jam-nuts was loose and it sounded like this was fairly common. I shouldn't speak for him or put words in his mouth though.
Spudcannons
New member
Interesting. Which alloys are these? I would like to know how those aluminum ones hold up. I have heard not so great things about river raider aluminum skids so I though it's not a great idea.
OscarMike2.0
New member
Hopefully one of them will chime in here. My jam nut also occasionally becomes lose.
OscarMike2.0
New member
Id really like to see a comparison between the two TRE's. It sucks that neither rock krawler or currie are vendors on here tho:doh:
bsimon187
Member
I am running the new rk tie rod and drag link. The ends are massive, the nuts come loose, had to tighten the crap out of them and use some good loctite to keep them on there. Also had to do a good amount of clearanceing on them to get them to not rub my wheels and to clear the knuckle. But they are beefy as hell.
OscarMike2.0
New member
I havent seen there tie rod in person but I have seen there drag link which uses the same ends and material and needless to say I dont think you will be breaking one ever..
I'm not a metallurgist so I can't tell you. But I do know there are many, many, alloys and alloy mixes when it comes to AL. They can also add silicate and other things to change the properties.
Extruded AL is very different than plate. remember plate was once bar and it had to be flattened into plate. This means the alloy has to be soft and willing to form. Rod and extruded alloys tend to have more hardening agents for machining. This is before we even consider surface treating like anodizing.
I have lots of experience forming and machining the different materials, but not the creation. The term AL is thrown around a lit but I know with certainty not all AL is the same.
OscarMike2.0
New member
I never thought about using locktite on the jam nuts:doh: Might do that tomorrow thanks!
Sorry for being MIA, I had to go wheeling and just got back off the trail.
Again, "quality product" is YOUR OPINION and one that you have yet to back up. To this day, I still don't know where their tie-rod ends are made but I do know their ball joints are made in China so I can only be left to assume that's where all their joints are made. I've yet to see anything of quality come out of China but, that's just me.
LOL!! I just love how butthurt fanboys like you get over me disagreeing with the products you've been sold on by your retailer of choice. Just because you don't like what I have to say doesn't mean I'm "hating" on a product and even if I was - what do you really care? It's just my opinion. That being said, I find it funny how all I ever said is that the OP should set his toe and run the FACTORY tie-rod which costs NOTHING AT ALL. You were the one who suggested he buy a cheaper alternative to a Currie tie rod. To that, I am just suggesting that IF you're going to spend ANY money at all, it should be for something that is really worth it. Of course, that's just my opinion and really, what do I know.
I totally disagree. You ASSUME I was interested in an LS1 or an LSX or the like or could have chosen anything different than what I got. I got the motor I needed based on what Motech recommend and eing that I was trying to do a CA smog legal swap. I did what I was told I "needed" to do. But really, none of this is even remotely an apples to apples comparison. Comparing a NEW TeraFlex 60 to a "used" Dynatrac ProRock 60 is an APPLES TO APPLES comparison. The same could be said about a WARN winch vs. a Smittybilt or Dyantrac ProSteers vs. Chinese made Synergy ball joints. But really, I digress. Clearly, you can believe whatever it is you want to believe.
I wouldn't disagree with you at all especially being that TeraFlex is made in China. But really, that is just my opinion and based on what I have SEEN. The same can be said about EVERYTHING I recommend including a Currie tie-rod being BETTER than a Synergy. Unlike you, I prefer to recommend what I feel is the BEST product rather than something that is just cheaper. Otherwise, sticking with factory parts is an option that I recommend all the time. But again, that's just me.
Again, "quality product" is YOUR OPINION and one that you have yet to back up. To this day, I still don't know where their tie-rod ends are made but I do know their ball joints are made in China so I can only be left to assume that's where all their joints are made. I've yet to see anything of quality come out of China but, that's just me.
LOL!! I just love how butthurt fanboys like you get over me disagreeing with the products you've been sold on by your retailer of choice. Just because you don't like what I have to say doesn't mean I'm "hating" on a product and even if I was - what do you really care? It's just my opinion. That being said, I find it funny how all I ever said is that the OP should set his toe and run the FACTORY tie-rod which costs NOTHING AT ALL. You were the one who suggested he buy a cheaper alternative to a Currie tie rod. To that, I am just suggesting that IF you're going to spend ANY money at all, it should be for something that is really worth it. Of course, that's just my opinion and really, what do I know.
I totally disagree. You ASSUME I was interested in an LS1 or an LSX or the like or could have chosen anything different than what I got. I got the motor I needed based on what Motech recommend and eing that I was trying to do a CA smog legal swap. I did what I was told I "needed" to do. But really, none of this is even remotely an apples to apples comparison. Comparing a NEW TeraFlex 60 to a "used" Dynatrac ProRock 60 is an APPLES TO APPLES comparison. The same could be said about a WARN winch vs. a Smittybilt or Dyantrac ProSteers vs. Chinese made Synergy ball joints. But really, I digress. Clearly, you can believe whatever it is you want to believe.
I wouldn't disagree with you at all especially being that TeraFlex is made in China. But really, that is just my opinion and based on what I have SEEN. The same can be said about EVERYTHING I recommend including a Currie tie-rod being BETTER than a Synergy. Unlike you, I prefer to recommend what I feel is the BEST product rather than something that is just cheaper. Otherwise, sticking with factory parts is an option that I recommend all the time. But again, that's just me.
bsimon187
Member
With loctite I am not having to tighten them every other week now. I used the permanent color. Forgot which one it was, but based on the size of the jam nut per loctite recommendations.