Running 37s on a stock dana 30 axle

[Spudcannons]

For the past 2 1/2 years ive been running 35" toyos on mine and havent had any problems yet. Still running stock 3.21 gears. Power isnt to bad until you hit the mountains. Im planning on upgrading the axle in the future but for now im just going to have to stick with what i have. So i was curious if gussets are a must for street riding with 37" tires

I would consider hydro assist a must have(for me anyway) for 37s since it will be very very hard to steer in the rocks or locked up(even with 35s). Plus it will alleviate the strain from the sector shaft which is not something you want to break. If you do not wheel hard or do hard trails then just toss the 37s on and call it a day but if you wheel it it's just a matter of when the axle breaks not if.

 

[seanb123]

I would consider hydro assist a must have(for me anyway) for 37s since it will be very very hard to steer in the rocks or locked up(even with 35s). Plus it will alleviate the strain from the sector shaft which is not something you want to break. If you do not wheel hard or do hard trails then just toss the 37s on and call it a day but if you wheel it it's just a matter of when the axle breaks not if.

You make it seam like you NEED hydro with 37s. It would not be very very hard. It would add extra strain but not something that needs to be done

 

[MedixJK]

Correct me if im wrong, but i believe noroad just drove across the country and ran the Rubicon, all on a d30 w 37s. Not sure if any upgrades are done to it. Just reinforces what Eddie said, speed is what hurts you the most on the trail. Its not the best setup, but it has been done.

 

[Spudcannons]

You make it seam like you NEED hydro with 37s. It would not be very very hard. It would add extra strain but not something that needs to be done

I would consider it very hard to steer when it feels like you do not have power steering. Not NEED, and that's why I said a must have for me having tried with and without it. It is a world of a difference and makes it much easier to take the line your want and make steering changes at a stand still.

Correct me if im wrong, but i believe noroad just drove across the country and ran the Rubicon, all on a d30 w 37s. Not sure if any upgrades are done to it. Just reinforces what Eddie said, speed is what hurts you the most on the trail. Its not the best setup, but it has been done.

That's pretty sweet, wish mine would have lasted that long.

 

[hhunter050]

Running 37s on my stock d30. Still crawling but expecting it to go anytime now. I'm just super careful with bouncing in the rocks and chosing lines. I'm not suggesting you do the same but it can be done. I have stock everything internal wise. Had the 37s since Valentines day of 2015

 

[wayoflife]

Running 37s on my stock d30. Still crawling but expecting it to go anytime now. I'm just super careful with bouncing in the rocks and chosing lines. I'm not suggesting you do the same but it can be done. I have stock everything internal wise. Had the 37s since Valentines day of 2015

Running 37's on a Dana 30 will not cause it to spontaneously combust - time and use will cause it to reveal its weaknesses. Some people can make this happen sooner than others.

 

[CandAMudders]

37 Mickey Ts on stock axle both street and offroad driving on this setup for a year now. I would parrot what Eddie and many others said. Not usually the best option to put money into something like a Dana 30 when you can just run it with what you got and be mentally/financially prepared if it breaks. As mentioned, more likely the ring and pinion would fail before the shaft, so gusseting wouldn't be much of a failsafe in any case. Nobody who knows what they are doing hits the rocks at speed, regardless of what axle you have...that is just common sense.

 

[wayoflife]

37 Mickey Ts on stock axle both street and offroad driving on this setup for a year now. I would parrot what Eddie and many others said. Not usually the best option to put money into something like a Dana 30 when you can just run it with what you got and be mentally/financially prepared if it breaks. As mentioned, more likely the ring and pinion would fail before the shaft, so gusseting wouldn't be much of a failsafe in any case. Nobody who knows what they are doing hits the rocks at speed, regardless of what axle you have...that is just common sense.

Actually, I have seen plenty of Dana 30 shafts break and just saw a u-joint blow last week on the Rubicon. I have only seen ring & pinions go when lockers are in place.

 

[CandAMudders]

Given the huge number of trails from mild to wild that Eddie and Cindy have been on all across the USA, I am sure they have seen pretty much 'a lot' of everything bending, breaking or blowing up.

 

[NevadaZielmeister]

So to confirm what most of the knowledgeable people are saying here is to not gusset or sleeve the stock axle housing but upgrade to chromoly axle shafts, correct? Then when the housing bends or fails, then upgrade?

I assume that it is the same with the stock Dana 44's since the tubes are the same size between those and the Dana 30's?

My only problem is spending about $4,500 for a Dynatrac Dana Prorock 44 up front when I can just upgrade the axle shafts and gears for 37's for now. I then plan to save up in preparation for the big jump when the housing fails.... AND easier to explain to the war department (read wife) when I have a broken axle, right?

 

[thardy]

So to confirm what most of the knowledgeable people are saying here is to not gusset or sleeve the stock axle housing but upgrade to chromoly axle shafts, correct? Then when the housing bends or fails, then upgrade?

I assume that it is the same with the stock Dana 44's since the tubes are the same size between those and the Dana 30's?

My only problem is spending about $4,500 for a Dynatrac Dana Prorock 44 up front when I can just upgrade the axle shafts and gears for 37's for now. I then plan to save up in preparation for the big jump when the housing fails.... AND easier to explain to the war department (read wife) when I have a broken axle, right?

You absolutely want to put in c-gussets. You DONT want to truss or sleeve, waste of money. If you have a Rubi, you should be fine with 37s.

 

[Spudcannons]

So to confirm what most of the knowledgeable people are saying here is to not gusset or sleeve the stock axle housing but upgrade to chromoly axle shafts, correct? Then when the housing bends or fails, then upgrade?

I assume that it is the same with the stock Dana 44's since the tubes are the same size between those and the Dana 30's?

My only problem is spending about $4,500 for a Dynatrac Dana Prorock 44 up front when I can just upgrade the axle shafts and gears for 37's for now. I then plan to save up in preparation for the big jump when the housing fails.... AND easier to explain to the war department (read wife) when I have a broken axle, right?

Everyone is saying not to put money into the D30. save it for the PR44. C's are worth it short money.

 

[wayoflife]

So to confirm what most of the knowledgeable people are saying here is to not gusset or sleeve the stock axle housing but upgrade to chromoly axle shafts, correct? Then when the housing bends or fails, then upgrade?

Negative. I would run what you have as is and IF you break a shaft, replace it with a chromoly shaft only because it's cheaper than a factory replacement. If you're trying to make your Dana 30 last, I might install gussets but that's it. If you use your Jeep out here in Nevada, you WILL bend your housing but really, that's not such a big deal or at least, not until it's so bad that you have seal leaks.

I assume that it is the same with the stock Dana 44's since the tubes are the same size between those and the Dana 30's?

Yes. The factory Rubicon 44's have the same bending problems but at least they have a larger ring & pinion and beefier shafts. Again, a bent housing is the least of your concerns.

My only problem is spending about $4,500 for a Dynatrac Dana Prorock 44 up front when I can just upgrade the axle shafts and gears for 37's for now. I then plan to save up in preparation for the big jump when the housing fails.... AND easier to explain to the war department (read wife) when I have a broken axle, right?

Personally, I wouldn't spend ANY money on your factory axle or at least, unless you have to just to get by and I would say not to spend any money on an upgrade until you need to make it or can afford to make it.

 

[NevadaZielmeister]

You absolutely want to put in c-gussets. You DONT want to truss or sleeve, waste of money. If you have a Rubi, you should be fine with 37s.

I think you are correct after I read some more just now. I see what they do- strengthen the axle to the c joint. Thank you. Would you recommend the Evo Mfg one here?

http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=EVO-AXLEGUSSETS

 

[wayoflife]

I think you are correct after I read some more just now. I see what they do- strengthen the axle to the c joint. Thank you. Would you recommend the Evo Mfg one here?

http://www.offroadevolution.com/store/proddetail.php?prod=EVO-AXLEGUSSETS

These are the original gussets and they would be a good choice to go with.

 

[NevadaZielmeister]

Negative. I would run what you have as is and IF you break a shaft, replace it with a chromoly shaft only because it's cheaper than a factory replacement. If you're trying to make your Dana 30 last, I might install gussets but that's it. If you use your Jeep out here in Nevada, you WILL bend your housing but really, that's not such a big deal or at least, not until it's so bad that you have seal leaks.



Yes. The factory Rubicon 44's have the same bending problems but at least they have a larger ring & pinion and beefier shafts. Again, a bent housing is the least of your concerns.



Personally, I wouldn't spend ANY money on your factory axle or at least, unless you have to just to get by and I would say not to spend any money on an upgrade until you need to make it or can afford to make it.

Interesting, thank you. My plan is to get a Rock Krawler 3.5 Rock runner coil over long arm lift kit, 37 inch tall wheels, and regearing to 5.13. So with that, you recommend don't upgrade the shafts, add gussets or anything else?

This is good news since I would be able to save about $2,000 and then I am halfway to the Prorock. Nice!!

 

[wayoflife]

Interesting, thank you. My plan is to get a Rock Krawler 3.5 Rock runner coil over long arm lift kit, 37 inch tall wheels, and regearing to 5.13. So with that, you recommend don't upgrade the shafts, add gussets or anything else?

This is good news since I would be able to save about $2,000 and then I am halfway to the Prorock. Nice!!

Just out of curiosity, any reason why you're wanting to go with the Rock Krawler kit?

That being said, I would NOT recommend running a 5.13 gear in a Dana 30 as the pinion is extremely small and it WILL be a weak point more so than your shafts. Again, a bent housing is the least of your concerns. If you're determined to run 37's and play with your Jeep hard, I would put more of your attention into building up your drive train than spending money on a fancy lift kit. You can still get all the height you need to clear 37's with a more affordable kit and still have a very capable rig for less but, that's just me.

 

[NevadaZielmeister]

Just out of curiosity, any reason why you're wanting to go with the Rock Krawler kit?

That being said, I would NOT recommend running a 5.13 gear in a Dana 30 as the pinion is extremely small and it WILL be a weak point more so than your shafts. Again, a bent housing is the least of your concerns. If you're determined to run 37's and play with your Jeep hard, I would put more of your attention into building up your drive train than spending money on a fancy lift kit. You can still get all the height you need to clear 37's with a more affordable kit and still have a very capable rig for less but, that's just me.

Good question and the answer is simple. It's all your fault... Just kidding.

The concept of a long arm lift and a coil over design appeal to me. I have read a bit about them and feel that they are worth the benefits. That is a whole morning discussion, right? (And I am typing from an iPhone.)

So when I watched your videos and see how Moby goes over the obstacles so much more effectively that the other vehicles (I am sure driver skill is part of it) I feel that the long arms and the coil overs have a lot to do with it. That and 40 inch tires, which I would upgrade to when I do the axle Prorock 44 upgrade.

The goal is to upgrade only once, if possible. I figure a JKUR with the Dana 44's already in place is good for now for the regearing, right?

Any other thoughts?

 

[hhunter050]

Running 37's on a Dana 30 will not cause it to spontaneously combust - time and use will cause it to reveal its weaknesses. Some people can make this happen sooner than others.

Well what I was trying to say but didn't was that the shafts should break or u joints failure because each time I wheel I try a little bit harder stuff to see what it will take so I'm getting to harder stuff which is why I said it should have a failure soon.

 

[wayoflife]

Good question and the answer is simple. It's all your fault... Just kidding.

The concept of a long arm lift and a coil over design appeal to me. I have read a bit about them and feel that they are worth the benefits. That is a whole morning discussion, right? (And I am typing from an iPhone.)

So when I watched your videos and see how Moby goes over the obstacles so much more effectively that the other vehicles (I am sure driver skill is part of it) I feel that the long arms and the coil overs have a lot to do with it. That and 40 inch tires, which I would upgrade to when I do the axle Prorock 44 upgrade.

The goal is to upgrade only once, if possible. I figure a JKUR with the Dana 44's already in place is good for now for the regearing, right?

Any other thoughts?

LOL!! Just so that it's clear, long arms WILL NOT give you more flex. They will simply correct your suspension geometry when lifted 3.5" or more and will offer a better ride ON PAVEMENT or when bombing through the desert. Also, not all coil overs offer the same amount of flex or can be set to a lower ride height. Moby is running an EVO DTD and that can actually be run on factory length arms - in fact, that's how we were running it originally. Moby is also clearing his 40's with just 3.5" of lift as the DTD's offer a MUCH LOWER ride height than any of it's competitors AND offers 14" of true vertical travel - this too is MORE than any of its competitors. In fact, if you were to get more, your drivelines would bind - ask me how I know. The point I'm trying to make here is that just because you have long arms and coil overs doesn't mean you'll have the same advantage that a Jeep like Moby will have.

I hate to say it but unless you're willing to spend a lot more right out of the box, you'll most likely end up having to upgrade more than once. If it were me, I would plan on at least going in the right direction to minimize the amount of upgrades you will need to make.