Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Axle Shaft Removal & Installation Write-Up

Thanks for this write-up Eddie. It made replacing my axle shafts really easy.

For anyone else reading this, go rent a slide hammer. I didn't start with it, but It was the little nudge I needed. It also helped pull the bearing race from one side. Nothing major stuck, just needed a little persuasion. It also helped as leverage to insert the new shafts.

On the second side I didnt remove the brake backing plate, but still removed the wheel sensor so I didn't break it.
 
Did mine this weekend. Think I screwed up the right rear wheel sensor. Dropped it accidentally. I put everything all together in the ESC program freaked out and turned off on my stability program and now I have the ABS light on and the traction control light on and I have a error code on the right rear20161203_102135.jpg
 
Eddie, so on a 13' JKUR, there's really no benefit to replacing the rear axles right? I wheel about 30-40 percent in the summer fall. Thanks. Oh and of course another great write up!

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I'm having the opposite problem of a lot of people. I had no problem getting my axle shaft out, but I'm having trouble getting the new one back in. I can definitely line up the splines and I know it's in the right spot but it doesn't want to just go. Can I give it a tap with a BFH or should I be considering removing the diff cover to ensure no damage to the splines on the other end?


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H8ROADS said:
I'm having the opposite problem of a lot of people. I had no problem getting my axle shaft out, but I'm having trouble getting the new one back in. I can definitely line up the splines and I know it's in the right spot but it doesn't want to just go. Can I give it a tap with a BFH or should I be considering removing the diff cover to ensure no damage to the splines on the other end?


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You pulled the old race out of the housing I assume? Check the splines for burrs just to be safe. If you are 100% sure that the splines are lined up, tapping it in shouldn't hurt anything, sometimes a little bearing grease on the splines helps too. Also, did you put the new race on the bearing itself on the shaft, that's usually how I do it, rather than putting the new race in the housing itself.
 
WJCO said:
You pulled the old race out of the housing I assume? Check the splines for burrs just to be safe. If you are 100% sure that the splines are lined up, tapping it in shouldn't hurt anything, sometimes a little bearing grease on the splines helps too. Also, did you put the new race on the bearing itself on the shaft, that's usually how I do it, rather than putting the new race in the housing itself.
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Yes the old race is out - ill check for spurs. New race was pressed on already


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I used this write up today when I replaced both rear shafts, and thank god cause it made it so easy. Got both shafts done and finished in 2 hours... def appreciate the help!!


US Army Combat Vet. Afghanistan 2010-2011
 
DH2002 said:
I used this write up today when I replaced both rear shafts, and thank god cause it made it so easy. Got both shafts done and finished in 2 hours... def appreciate the help!!

US Army Combat Vet. Afghanistan 2010-2011
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So glad to hear it :cool:
 
Unfortunately I had m axle built and added Tenfactorys but now have a seal leak. I just got the new seal and bearing and will be surgically removing the current leaking mess on the axle. Any suggestions for the new seal, bearing and retainer. I have access to a press but want to do it right. I have heard to slide the seal on, press the bearing and in a second operation press the retainer. Anyone know anything different?
 
Using this write up to change out my axle shafts but have run into a little problem. The bolts that hold the axle retainer are spinning as I try to remove the nuts on the back side. I was able to get two of the four nuts off but now I’m stuck. Any ideas on what I should do now? I don’t have a welder so I can’t tack weld the bolt and I can’t get any pliers in there to hold the bolt from spinning.


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