Dual + Single Steering Stabilizers?

[jeeeep]

Haha! If I had a spare shock I probably have another location for it. The drag link wasn't flipped because I have a 6" pitman arm drop and the angles wouldn't be correct, says the 4wheelparts front desk clerk.

I don't really trust them much anymore, considering all of the parts they had me buy to throw at an issue that they either are incapable of solving or rather upsale me instead.


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6" drop pitman??? holy shit!! I'd take it back and tell them to put the stock pitman arm back on. I have yet to see a drop pitman that fit properly and that much drop will cause it's own set of issues.

Did they give you the stock pitman arm?? I guarantee the stock pitman arm is more valuable to them than any shit pitman arm they sell.

yeah...4WP is the best place for shit advice.

 

[WJCO]

Haha, stage I pro come 4" lift....the rough country pitman drop was already on when I bought the JKU and 4wheelparts installed the lift and synergy drag and tie rod and that was that.

Do you recommend I replace the pitman with stock?


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It's not just you. That's how 4wheelparts installed it because of my 6" pitman arm drop. They said the angles would have been off if they installed it flipped.

*Blowing smoke up my arse, I suppose


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Holy shit. This is all bullshit. A track bar is a bar, period. It goes from point a to point b. It serves that purpose no matter how it's installed. The curves and bends are strictly for clearance. As far as the pitman arm and 4wheel parts, throw that shit in the ocean. Get a stock pitman arm, start over, but then make sure track bar and drag link are as close to parallel as possible. This will likely require a dl flip kit.

 

[Heavyhaul07]

If your running a dropped pitman arm remove it and go back to a stock pitman arm. Get your drag link and track bar as parallel as possible to each other.


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[WJCO]

Looking at your pics, the track bar has already been raised. Take a picture of the drag link end where it meets the knuckle and post it. Also post a pic of the lower control arms. I'll grab another beer in the meantime as I'm already scared to death of whatever shit they put back there too.

 

[Jeepster nOOb]

#WJCO

It's a Stage I 4" Pro Comp Lift, nearly a Stage II if I upgraded the short arms, but I'm NOT throwing anymore money at this mess.

The 6" pitman arm drop was there with the lift kit when I bought it - didn't think anything of it.

Everything else you mentioned was examined during my last couple of alignments at the local dealership. Had them print me off the alignment specs both times because they f'ed it up the first time. So the camber, toe in and all that should be good now - to my knowledge.


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[jeeeep]

#WJCO

It's a Stage I 4" Pro Comp Lift, nearly a Stage II if I upgraded the short arms, but I'm NOT throwing anymore money at this mess.

The 6" pitman arm drop was there with the lift kit when I bought it - didn't think anything of it.

Everything else you mentioned was examined during my last couple of alignments at the local dealership. Had them print me off the alignment specs both times because they f'ed it up the first time. So the camber, toe in and all that should be good now - to my knowledge.


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replace the 6" pitman with a stock pitman arm, it'll be much better than the dual/triple stabilizer shock setup.

save up for a better lift, that procomp uses cam bolts so when you get adjustable control arms you will need to have the washers welded on to put the cam bolt hole back to stock.

never go back to 4WP again!

stock pitman arm $64:

http://www.stevewhiteparts.com/jeep...ng-gear-and-linkage-scat/?part_name=pitman-ar

 

[Sharkey]

A properly setup front end doesn't need ANY steering stabilizer, let alone three.

 

[benatc1]

A properly setup front end doesn't need ANY steering stabilizer, let alone three.

^^ this.. I actually haven't run a stabilizer in about 6 months. bent mine on one jeep and didn't put one on my new on yet. Plenty of mods not even a shimmy.

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[Heavyhaul07]

^^ this.. I actually haven't run a stabilizer in about 6 months. bent mine on one jeep and didn't put one on my new on yet. Plenty of mods not even a shimmy.

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I haven't had one sense I bought mine a over a year ago as it was mia prior to purchasing. No issues with mine


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[WJCO]

#WJCO

It's a Stage I 4" Pro Comp Lift, nearly a Stage II if I upgraded the short arms, but I'm NOT throwing anymore money at this mess.

The 6" pitman arm drop was there with the lift kit when I bought it - didn't think anything of it.

Everything else you mentioned was examined during my last couple of alignments at the local dealership. Had them print me off the alignment specs both times because they f'ed it up the first time. So the camber, toe in and all that should be good now - to my knowledge.


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Regarding the alignment printout, I'd be curious to see the caster angle. Toe and camber aren't going to play a role in this mess.

 

[HighwayTrout]

This
.

Plus this

.


Should get you off in the right direction.


Seriously though. Trash everything and start over with a reputable lift kit or stock.


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[JK_Dave]

I actually left that last part out about running 20" rims - the AEV guy said the same thing about absorbance.

Shoot! The shocks don't absorb the punches? They actually shift the stress to other parts?

That's definitely NOT what I want, unless you think all that up selling from 4WheelParts can actually handle it (e.g. Synergy drag link, tie rod, and ball joints)?

So basically I should be running 17" rims if I want to run 35" aggressive treads? ...or I could have missed the point entirely

...and I don't really need steering dampeners, which is all I read online as well, but I didn't know where else to turn considering I thought I tried everything else ;(

Jeepster, I think we're all mad for you here. My opinion is to look at the tires you're running now and see if they're cupping. I would not buy new tires until you fix your suspension or you'll only wear them out quicker.



As others have suggested, you should replace your drop pitman arm with a stock one and look at a drag link flip instead. Your track bar and drag link should be parallel to avoid bump steer. That drop pitman arm is just putting a lot of stress on your stock steering box, which isn't known to be that strong to begin with. I don't see your collection of steering stabilizers to be hurting anything, but they're not helping anything either.

 

[srosario]

Jeepster, I think we're all mad for you here. My opinion is to look at the tires you're running now and see if they're cupping. I would not buy new tires until you fix your suspension or you'll only wear them out quicker.

View attachment 228454

As others have suggested, you should replace your drop pitman arm with a stock one and look at a drag link flip instead. Your track bar and drag link should be parallel to avoid bump steer. That drop pitman arm is just putting a lot of stress on your stock steering box, which isn't known to be that strong to begin with. I don't see your collection of steering stabilizers to be hurting anything, but they're not helping anything either.

so far one of the top advices
im trying to find the post where it shows u to tie the string to see if the drag link and track bar are parallel, if some one can find and post it, it would prob help him out.

also on the proper way to check ur ball joints.

he sounds like his invested way to much on labor already, im pretty sure he lives close to another member that could help him out, maybe i weekend bbq.

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[WJCO]

so far one of the top advices
im trying to find the post where it shows u to tie the string to see if the drag link and track bar are parallel, if some one can find and post it, it would prob help him out.

also on the proper way to check ur ball joints.


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Here's a picture of mine. You tie/tape the string from the center pivot point on upper drag link end to the center pivot point on lower drag link end. Then do the same from track bar bolt to track bar bolt.





As far as ball joints, jack up the vehicle from under the axle so that the vehicle's weight is still on the axle. Then use a large pipe or shovel and pry up under the tire that is jacked up. If ball joints have visual play, they're bad. I think manufacturer recommends .050-.060 of allowable play ( ~ 1/16").

 

[JK_Dave]

Here's one more thing to check as well - http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?311-DEATH-WOBBLE-What-it-is-What-it-isn-t-and-What-You-Can-Do-to-Fix-it

 

[Jeepster nOOb]

Can't be the ball joints considering I just replaced all four with synergy like 2 weeks ago. That was the last thing to be replaced and still have the DW.

I'm not starting from scratch, unless you mean to flip the drag link and replace the pitman arm. Spent to much money on this to throw the lift away unless you want to donate to my cause, lol.

22k on the 35" grapplers
72k on JKU

I like the idea of flipping the drag like its supposed to be and remove the drop pitman.

Anyone in the DWF area with mechanic skills want to help out for some beers and burgers


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[WJCO]

Can't be the ball joints considering I just replaced all four with synergy like 2 weeks ago. That was the last thing to be replaced and still have the DW.

I'm not starting from scratch, unless you mean to flip the drag link and replace the pitman arm. Spent to much money on this to throw the lift away unless you want to donate to my cause, lol.

22k on the 35" grapplers
72k on JKU

I like the idea of flipping the drag like its supposed to be and remove the drop pitman.

Anyone in the DWF area with mechanic skills want to help out for some beers and burgers


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Do you for sure have death wobble and not bump steer? Death wobble will literally shake your vehicle so uncontrollably that you have to almost stop the Jeep to stop the wobble. Bump steer and poor handling sucks over bumps but is still controllable. If you have the latter, it's related to your steering geometry and likely not worn parts.

 

[Jeepster nOOb]

For sure DW. And I do have to come to a complete stop to stop it. My JKU shakes uncontrollably and won't stop until I stop - it freaking sucks! And I spent all this money and still have issues, so I'm pretty sick of 4wheelparts, so called experts on 4x4 and sick of dropping money into this jeep pit.


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[wayoflife]

Do you for sure have death wobble and not bump steer? Death wobble will literally shake your vehicle so uncontrollably that you have to almost stop the Jeep to stop the wobble. Bump steer and poor handling sucks over bumps but is still controllable. If you have the latter, it's related to your steering geometry and likely not worn parts.

This ^^^

Can't be the ball joints considering I just replaced all four with synergy like 2 weeks ago. That was the last thing to be replaced and still have the DW.

That is your assumption to make but assuming you're right, what else have you checked? Have you checked your track bar to make sure the bolts are tightened to torque spec? Are the bushings worn out? How do the mounts look? Any signs of cracks or tearing? How about your toe, what is it set at? How about your caster, what is it set at? Being that you have a dropped pitman arm, do you have a track bar relocation bracket? If not not, you SHOULD have steering issues. If so and if it's installed on the axle, you need to check it carefully as cheaper kits tend to not have the kind of reinforcement needed to prevent the bracket from acting like a lever and tearing off the factory mount. Also, JK dropped pitman arms are all made by the same manufacturer and the tollerance of the splines are poor and can cause them to fit too loosely. I could go on and on.

 

[Jackal01]

I think you need to be more open minded with your issues at hand due to the severity of death wobble. Hell, you may just have bump steer. Do you know the difference in the two? Sometimes people confuse the two. There are many components that need to be checked to verify they are in spec. It sounds like 4WP screwed you big time. Just consider EVERYTHING we are telling you but in the end it is your money and rig. But for sure, three streering stabilizers isn't going to fix any issue...the bilsteins just need to be taken off. Replacing components with the correct ones (and being installed properly) may be in your near future.