Evo bolt on coilover install

There are two theories. One is the King plastic spacer is not up to the job. I use the aftermarket AGM sliders and don't have a problem with noise and the springs sit straight. But those are expensive and many (most?) say not necessary. I never ran with the King slider so I can't say.

The second is they will break in and go back straight. What makes them cocked is the spring-aluminum interface at the top and bottom, and the two slider-spring interfaces in the middle. If just one of those spring end faces is not completely flat (or if the plastic spacer isn't molded just right) it will send the spring off on an angle. That interface really "should" wear flat with use.

The AGM slider is longer, so it forces the springs to stay straight.

Dave

I work for a company that designs and builds Nightvision binoculars and several other products closely related. We have the tools to make some of these sliders but I'm curious as to what material they are made of. We use a hard plastic called Delrin . I wonder if that would work?
 
I think the king ones work fine, just noisy. I know king makes an extended one like this too now. Can't remember where i saw them but they are cheaper than agr.

edit: GenRight has the king version. they are $50 each though so would still be out $200.

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Lol it's just makes me concerned that after paying all that $ for these things that they are gonna start rubbing or bending the shock and cause major issues.
 
Intuitively we all know our capabilities, but don't always listen to the little voice in our heads that knows. Been there, done that many times, but it's the only way I learn. When the instructions are limited, vague or say "don't try this at home", yellow lights start flashing. Best of luck whether you do it, or put the boxes in the back of your JK and head down to your favorite shop.:thumb:
 
Would you guys say the long arm upgrade is a good match for the bolt on coil covers?

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Yeah, I had a "all things mechanic" brother to help me with some stuff. Low and behold, I counted 18 monkeys and 9 footballs. :eek: By the end, we were swearing, the monkeys were smoking cigarettes, and the footballs were in the corner crying :cheesy: Turns out, all his mechanical expertise is centered around turbine engines, as he builds helicopters (private and military). So unless I want a Turbine Engine in my JK (which I'm considering with their 1940 shaft horsepower!!!!!) :crazyeyes: I now know I can do a fair amount of modifications, but driveline work and what not is gonna be at a shop :grayno:
 

based on this picture....

- there is NO preload on the coil-over - add some and that will allow your KING slider to work as designed and thus reducing the noise you are getting

- your timing rings (2 silver rings on the shock body) are not set correctly. these need to be set approx. 1/2" above your slider at ride height
 
That abs line looks to taking a dangerous route...

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based on this picture....

- there is NO preload on the coil-over - add some and that will allow your KING slider to work as designed and thus reducing the noise you are getting

- your timing rings (2 silver rings on the shock body) are not set correctly. these need to be set approx. 1/2" above your slider at ride height

Drew, thanks for chiming in brother. I'll do so.

Haha yeah, the abs line was moved. Didn't notice it when we were putting the coilover in.

Thanks a ton guys!
 
based on this picture....

- there is NO preload on the coil-over - add some and that will allow your KING slider to work as designed and thus reducing the noise you are getting

- your timing rings (2 silver rings on the shock body) are not set correctly. these need to be set approx. 1/2" above your slider at ride height

I currently have it at a low ride height (still waiting on my rear setup) and the issue is that the sliders are about 2-3" away from the slider.
 
On the front shock resi, where do you attach the second clamp? First one is easy to figure out, but is there something I am missing to attach the other clamp?
 
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