Jeep JK Wrangler 2.5" Budget Boost Installation Write-Up

When it comes to working on Jeeps, bigger is better. I typically recommend nothing less than 19" and if you get get 21"-23", all the better. If you can't afford a quality floor jack, check your local Harbor Freight as they'll have some big jacks for pretty cheap.

I'm guessing also at least 3 ton in addition to just height? And as for the individual jack stand for left/right and front/rear, are those good at 2 ton each (x4). Good deals at HF, but never sure which level to get, so this is a cool thread to clarify it for me. Thx!
 
Can you not still rent floor jacks at auto zone?

I know you could at advanced auto parts but they don't have those stores out here in CA.
 
Great write up. I'll be installing this kit tomorrow. Just got done unpacking it and noticed two things that are new. So new that the instructions included from Teraflex don't have the changes in them. They both involve the rear sway bars. First they are no longer grease able, but like a previous member said, they still give you the zerks for them. The second is the stud that is attached to one side of the link. I called Teraflex and was told that these are a new design they are putting out and have not updated their instructions yet. So if you get this kit and the links look like this, don't freak out. They're supposed to look like that. The studs should go on the bottom and the bolt and nut on top.
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After I ordered the kit I was looking over the pic and noticed it looks like the kit provides the rear track bar relocation bracket. Is there anything to consider when installing this? I didn't see it in the write up but could of missed it. ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1363407993.084361.jpg
 
Yes the rear track bar bracket is included and the only thing you need to do is drill one 3/8" hole in the stock bracket. All the instructions are there and the job is fairly simple. I just did it yesterday.
The only hard part for a 2012 and up are the front springs. Because of the exhaust loop the axle won't drop as far as you want. I used spring compressors and had no problems.
Here's a before and after.
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Can't you just disconnect the drive shaft from the axle? I had planned on doing that since I had heard about the exhaust

Your Jeep looks great. Can't wait until mine gets lifted next week.
 
Can't you just disconnect the drive shaft from the axle? I had planned on doing that since I had heard about the exhaust

Your Jeep looks great. Can't wait until mine gets lifted next week.

That's what I would do. 4 bolts and 2 minutes of your time is a lot easier than dealing with spring compressors.
 
Do you have any pics of the links? Depending on the kind of bushings it has, it may not need to be greased. Of course, if you got zerks for it, I would think they would be greasable and their overseas manufacturer is just lacking in the QC department.



The rear sway bar links are designed to be installed on the outside. People only install them on the inside IF they are still running factory wheels without wheel spacers and to do that, you would need to drill new mounting holes. Not something I would recommend.



You need to just remove the brake line from the axle mount and run it over it like 2007-11 JK's came.



This write-up was written for 2007-10 model JK's and the removal of the automatic transmission skid plate would have provided enough clearance of the front drive shaft to make the installation easy. The new placement of the 2012-up exhaust crossover will get in the way of your drive shaft regardless if you have an automatic or manual and disconnecting it from the front axle should be done to all for full droop. There are only 4 bolts to remove and a 15mm socket is all that you need. This is a much easier and safer way to go than to use a spring compressor.

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Does any one have pictures on how the brake lines run run over the axle mount. The 2012 does not have enough room for full axle droop.
 
I'm confused. What do you mean? In sitting in the jeep right now and can take whatever pics you need.

The way the 2012 mounts the brake line is to the axle as in the pic. At full droop the line from the frame up top to the axle mount comes under tension before I get to full droop.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1364001976.032386.jpg
 
Eddie said to just disconnect from axle mount and route over the top like a 07-11 but I don't know what that looks like.
 
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