Moving from 35's to 37's

[JKDream]

My original statements were about the tubes splitting after hitting something. Most axles I've seen bent were all at the C.

You say this like its a major concern, and even if it was - a sleeve isn't going to prevent the outside metal from breaking; especially a stupid hammer in sleeve.

Most axles I've seen bent were all at the C.

I guarantee what you saw was bent C's, which is why 90% of the people in the thread recommended gussets.

And no it's nothing like a bolt or trackbar bracket. In regards to tubing it is usually always stronger to have a compression fit opposed to rosette welds. But I guess after years of working on hydraulic cranes and heavy equipment I'll just stick to the advice on here, thanks. And yes welding is stronger than simply bolting something on, I am talking about hammer in sleeves that are a machined fit and support the tubing not only at the welded locations.

Weld-in sleeves are a tight fit, and they are BETTER than hammer in sleeves because they are actually fused to the outside metal. Therefore - if you split/crack/do any type of damage, they will hold the tube TOGETHER. A press fit tube will pull apart and leave you stranded.
This is a moot point anyway because they are both (say it with me) a waste of money.

And yes everyone I understand sleeves will not stop axle failure

Then why are you still trying to validate your purchase, and that they will be of any benefit.

But I do think that they help, no they will not prevent a bend at the center section. But installing sleeves and gussets for around 230$ it's not a bad idea. I have sleeves and gussets on my rubi 44, had a hard hit on a rock and broke off 4 brackets and bent the rest. The axle itself was still straight as an arrow.

Honestly, I highly doubt you were able to make the determination that it wasn't bent, especially from an impact that ripped off four control arm mounts.
Did you run an alignment bar through it? Doubt it - because you bought a new housing.

You think a "hammer in" sleeve is going to net a compression fit? ...I hope you are joking...

The pure nature of impacting the sleeve repetitively is going to cause bending moments throughout the sleeve and axle housing. And that is without even taking into consideration the human error effect considering you have a moron swinging a hammer on the end... but you're the expert. I guess all the hydraulic press manufactueres around the world have a lot to learn from your years of experience...

I for one, am not well versed in magic. I only focus on things like "facts" so my knowlege is "usually always" lacking here.

^^

 

[cozdude]

Are we really going to get this nit picky... ok fine. I had a sleeved and gusseted 44, broke all the axle mounts after a collision, also broke a shaft.

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I have sleeves and gussets on my rubi 44, had a hard hit on a rock and broke off 4 brackets and bent the rest. The axle itself was still straight as an arrow.


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So wait, was it a collision that broke all the axle mounts or was it a big rock? :hmm: :thinking:

 

[DWiggles]

So wait, was it a collision that broke all the axle mounts or was it a big rock? :hmm: :thinking:

Ah... it's all starting to make sense now... :cheesy:

 

[Gadget]

Ok to summarize...

I need to sleeve truss and gusset my PR44 so when I stick it in my butthole it won't bend when I pull on it?

Ok got it!


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Ha ha very good..


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[NecessaryEvil]

It DOESN'T MATTER if the sleeve strengthens the tube or not. That's not the point here. Sleeve or not, the tube CAN still bend at the pumpkin just as easy. With your 2 straw method, I guarantee if you put the end of that straw assembly in your butthole and pulled down on it, it would still bend at your butthole, and I'm not even an engineer. And the outer OEM axle tube still can fracture or break with or without a sleeve. It has happened and does happen.

The point most members here are making is that spending the money is un-necessary.

Lmfao. This is too funny


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[HighwayTrout]

What happened to that guy that had a complete meltdown cause he installed the wrong sleeves and fucked up his axle? Got butt hurt cause of the "I told you so's" and still tried to say sleeves are the greatest even after his was ruined.
People are going to believe what they want and try to convince others only to justify their purchase to themselves.

found it***

F#@k your forum and f@#k you too
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=28279

 

[WJCO]

found it***

F#@k your forum and f@#k you too
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=28279

Holy shit :shock: I honestly couldn't read the whole thing, just skimmed it....What a train wreck.

 

[drty6]

I was gonna comment but my .02 would add up to more of a fucked off conversation that I don't remember where it started


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[drty6]

If someone comes on with a new thread titled OUCH y'all now where they got the idea to test the structural integrity of a straw before trying to sleeve an axle


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[Ozon8r]

Regrettably trussed and gussetted front d44

OP: Upgrading to 37s from the 35s, I asked the same questions on what I should do with my axles to ensure the integrity and strength with the added stress and weight from bigger tires. Based on feedback here and from advice from a reputable local Denver shop, I added chromoly axles front and rear, avoided the sleeves, but trussed front axle and gussetted the Cs ( B I G FNING MISTAKE). My camber was major jacked and pulled hard right. The shop added an asymmetrical ball joint on one side to correct the camber. Now the damn jk pulls the other way and I now get joy of the dreaded death wobble on rare but very inconvenient occasions. Not sure if the camber issue is related to warping of the axle or the Cs. But none the less, with the time and frustration and money, I wished I would have just bought a pro rock 44 and been done with the whole mess. Buy on price you gonna pay twice. BTW, no issues with the new chromoly axles.

Best of luck with your new 37s

 

[akevinbailey]

Moving from 35" to 37", My experence

I'm going to step up for 35's to 37's on my 2013 JKU Rubicon my questions are. Truss or sleeve the front axle and 4:88 or 5:13 gears.
It's my daily driver. Any input would be helpful

A two years ago, I did the exact same thing. I had a 2012 JKUR with a 3.5" Rubicon Express Radius Long Arm lift that I got back in 2013 running 35" Toyos. To make the move to 37", I first had to make the following mods:

1. Get new 4.5" springs
2. Adjust my existing long arms to accommodate the extra 1"
3. High steer kit
4. Put in taller bump-stops
5. Regear to 4.88
6. Add new Spicer driveshafts front and back.
7. Add 1.25" wheel spacers to keep them from rubbing on the frame
8. Replace all the stock fenders with high clearance fenders

It all worked well until I spent 7 days wheeling in NorCal in the summer of 2015. On that trip I bent my front D44, twisted the rear D44 tubes which broke their welds in the pumpkins, and smashed all my control arm brackets. I also had extreme difficulties turning my 37" in the rocks. I managed to salvage my front D44 and the brackets, but the rear housing was a complete loss. So I could get the Jeep home to Texas, Arabia's Overkill in San Jose found me a good deal on a G2 Core axle housing and swapped all my stock components into it. They were also the ones that heat straighten my front axle and sleeved it.
After this experience I did the following:

1. Trussed, gusseted, and welded on bracket skid plates to the front axle (all EVO)
2. Replaced all the stock axles with RCV 300M shafts (front and back)
3. Install a hydraulic assisted steering (PCS)
4. Put in a RIPP Supercharger (to compensate for the heavier vehicle)
5. Put in heavy-duty skidplates to cover the oil pan, trans, and gas tank (RE and custom)

After these modification, I have not had any issues. I wheel my jeep really hard. So if the 37" are not for show, I would sleeve, then gusset, and finally truss the front. Also, truss the back housing and add control arm bracket skidplates/reinforcements. I really like my rear G2 Core axle housing, and if I had to do it over again, I would have replaced the front D44 with a G2 Core also an not worry about the sleeve, gussets, and truss. But it has held up so far, so I just leave it alone.

I have pictures if you what to see them.

 

[WJCO]

A two years ago, I did the exact same thing. I had a 2012 JKUR with a 3.5" Rubicon Express Radius Long Arm lift that I got back in 2013 running 35" Toyos. To make the move to 37", I first had to make the following mods:

1. Get new 4.5" springs
2. Adjust my existing long arms to accommodate the extra 1"
3. High steer kit
4. Put in taller bump-stops
5. Regear to 4.88
6. Add new Spicer driveshafts front and back.
7. Add 1.25" wheel spacers to keep them from rubbing on the frame
8. Replace all the stock fenders with high clearance fenders

It all worked well until I spent 7 days wheeling in NorCal in the summer of 2015. On that trip I bent my front D44, twisted the rear D44 tubes which broke their welds in the pumpkins, and smashed all my control arm brackets. I also had extreme difficulties turning my 37" in the rocks. I managed to salvage my front D44 and the brackets, but the rear housing was a complete loss. So I could get the Jeep home to Texas, Arabia's Overkill in San Jose found me a good deal on a G2 Core axle housing and swapped all my stock components into it. They were also the ones that heat straighten my front axle and sleeved it.
After this experience I did the following:

1. Trussed, gusseted, and welded on bracket skid plates to the front axle (all EVO)
2. Replaced all the stock axles with RCV 300M shafts (front and back)
3. Install a hydraulic assisted steering (PCS)
4. Put in a RIPP Supercharger (to compensate for the heavier vehicle)
5. Put in heavy-duty skidplates to cover the oil pan, trans, and gas tank (RE and custom)

After these modification, I have not had any issues. I wheel my jeep really hard. So if the 37" are not for show, I would sleeve, then gusset, and finally truss the front. Also, truss the back housing and add control arm bracket skidplates/reinforcements. I really like my rear G2 Core axle housing, and if I had to do it over again, I would have replaced the front D44 with a G2 Core also an not worry about the sleeve, gussets, and truss. But it has held up so far, so I just leave it alone.

I have pictures if you what to see them.

Welcome back. In your last thread you seemed upset about the G2 housing? Also, why go through the list above rather than buy a ProRock and not have to do any of that other stuff you mentioned?

 

[wayoflife]

A two years ago, I did the exact same thing. I had a 2012 JKUR with a 3.5" Rubicon Express Radius Long Arm lift that I got back in 2013 running 35" Toyos. To make the move to 37", I first had to make the following mods:

1. Get new 4.5" springs
2. Adjust my existing long arms to accommodate the extra 1"
3. High steer kit
4. Put in taller bump-stops
5. Regear to 4.88
6. Add new Spicer driveshafts front and back.
7. Add 1.25" wheel spacers to keep them from rubbing on the frame
8. Replace all the stock fenders with high clearance fenders

It all worked well until I spent 7 days wheeling in NorCal in the summer of 2015. On that trip I bent my front D44, twisted the rear D44 tubes which broke their welds in the pumpkins, and smashed all my control arm brackets. I also had extreme difficulties turning my 37" in the rocks. I managed to salvage my front D44 and the brackets, but the rear housing was a complete loss. So I could get the Jeep home to Texas, Arabia's Overkill in San Jose found me a good deal on a G2 Core axle housing and swapped all my stock components into it. They were also the ones that heat straighten my front axle and sleeved it.
After this experience I did the following:

1. Trussed, gusseted, and welded on bracket skid plates to the front axle (all EVO)
2. Replaced all the stock axles with RCV 300M shafts (front and back)
3. Install a hydraulic assisted steering (PCS)
4. Put in a RIPP Supercharger (to compensate for the heavier vehicle)
5. Put in heavy-duty skidplates to cover the oil pan, trans, and gas tank (RE and custom)

After these modification, I have not had any issues. I wheel my jeep really hard. So if the 37" are not for show, I would sleeve, then gusset, and finally truss the front. Also, truss the back housing and add control arm bracket skidplates/reinforcements. I really like my rear G2 Core axle housing, and if I had to do it over again, I would have replaced the front D44 with a G2 Core also an not worry about the sleeve, gussets, and truss. But it has held up so far, so I just leave it alone.

I have pictures if you what to see them.

Umm, yeah, welcome back to WAYALIFE from 2014. :thinking:

 

[akevinbailey]

Welcome back. In your last thread you seemed upset about the G2 housing? Also, why go through the list above rather than buy a ProRock and not have to do any of that other stuff you mentioned?

I don't recall saying anything bad about G2 housings. It was the diff cover that they screwed up. Once they fixed the design, everything was good. But, yah. If, I did it over again I would just buy a ProRock or G2 Core front axle. I just didn't have the money at the time. Also, Jeff at Arabia's Overkill was able to get me the G2 Core at half the price of a ProRock.

 

[akevinbailey]

Umm, yeah, welcome back to WAYALIFE from 2014. :thinking:

Has it been that long? Then my axle swap must have been in 2014. How time flies.

 

[WJCO]

I don't recall saying anything bad about G2 housings. It was the diff cover that they screwed up. Once they fixed the design, everything was good. But, yah. If, I did it over again I would just buy a ProRock or G2 Core front axle. I just didn't have the money at the time. Also, Jeff at Arabia's Overkill was able to get me the G2 Core at half the price of a ProRock.

Yeah, maybe I read it wrong. As long as you're happy now.

The other day a bought a new G2 Core 44 rear axle housing for my 2012 Rubicon JKU. I busted my stock Dana 44.

It's a great housing, but has one MAJOR flaw. Only a G2 proprietary diff cove will fit, and this proprietary diff cover has a major design flaw. The oil fill screw is below the fill level for the rear differential!

Worse still is that G2 knew of this obvious design flaw and in their promotion pictures and demos the have a different diff cover. See the pics. The first pic is the promotion picture and the red line is the lubricant fill level. The second pic is what G2 is shipping to customers. Notice the fill hole on the cover is below the required lubricant level!!!!!
View attachment 107623 View attachment 107624

G2 has said they are aware of the issue and they have no idea when the correct diff covers will be available. It could be six months or more! Until G2 starts shipping the axle housing with the correct diff cover, I would not recommend anyone buy a rear G2 Core 44 axle housing.

As you can see on G2's website and product information, the rear axle has a properly designed cover, but that is NOT the one they ship with the rear axle. They know the front diff cover will not work in the back but they shipped it anyway. That is what pisses me off!!!!

Also when I called G2, they said, "we know about it, but we don't have any rear diff covers and we don't have any on order. It might be six months. Call back in 30 days." This is classic bait and switch tactics. It is probably against the law in CA. If I don't get the rear cover in 30 days I will most likely demand a complete reimbursement (labor and parts). We will see.