My life with a Brick

jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
I bought a Lisle wheel stud installer when I was swapping out my rear axle shafts.

It wasn't the cheapest tool but made pulling studs thru easier than messing with washers/nuts

The Lisle has a bearing on the bottom that allows it to easily spin :thumb:
 
JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
jeeeep said:
I bought a Lisle wheel stud installer when I was swapping out my rear axle shafts.

It wasn't the cheapest tool but made pulling studs thru easier than messing with washers/nuts

The Lisle has a bearing on the bottom that allows it to easily spin :thumb:
Click to expand...

Sounds like my Greenlee metal hole punches in a way, I’ll check that out, thanks!


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JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
Everything has been checked, double checked, and dialed in. Gear break in starts tomorrow. The one and only thing I need to do is make the rear track bar 1/2” longer. Pumped to feel the difference. I told Tina it looks no different but it’s badasser [emoji23][emoji23]


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Weebz

Weebz

Caught the Bug
JKbrick said:
Everything has been checked, double checked, and dialed in. Gear break in starts tomorrow. The one and only thing I need to do is make the rear track bar 1/2” longer. Pumped to feel the difference. I told Tina it looks no different but it’s badasser [emoji23][emoji23]


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Click to expand...

I see you are learning the proper terminology! Congrats man!!
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
JKbrick said:
Everything has been checked, double checked, and dialed in. Gear break in starts tomorrow. The one and only thing I need to do is make the rear track bar 1/2” longer. Pumped to feel the difference. I told Tina it looks no different but it’s badasser [emoji23][emoji23]


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Click to expand...
As Eddie mentioned years ago with Rubicat. Regarding is the best bang for your buck. You're going to love it.

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JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
Made an am trip and a pm trip. First impressions are it’s flighty. I don’t have the steering stabilizer on yet, and the Pro Steers are new. I think I’ll get an alignment and have them tell me what the caster is set at. I think I’m at 6* but I’m not positive


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BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
JKbrick said:
Made an am trip and a pm trip. First impressions are it’s flighty. I don’t have the steering stabilizer on yet, and the Pro Steers are new. I think I’ll get an alignment and have them tell me what the caster is set at. I think I’m at 6* but I’m not positive


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Click to expand...
Not sure what the recommended caster is on the PR44, but the new ball joints will take about 500 miles to break in and feel right. For you, that should be about this time next year [emoji41]



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
BaddestCross said:
Not sure what the recommended caster is on the PR44, but the new ball joints will take about 500 miles to break in and feel right. For you, that should be about this time next year [emoji41]



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Click to expand...

Lmao!! The housing said either 6* or an extra 6*, I don’t know what they mean. The driveshaft is pointed dead straight at the transfer case and the angle of the pig is 82. Factory pig angle is 88


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
JKbrick said:
Lmao!! The housing said either 6* or an extra 6*, I don’t know what they mean. The driveshaft is pointed dead straight at the transfer case and the angle of the pig is 82. Factory pig angle is 88


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Click to expand...

The angle at the tcase doesn't matter. The driveshaft pointed at the front pinion should be parallel in a perfect world. But on Jeeps, it won't happen. So your aftermarket axle housing has been modified to attempt perfection. If you were to draw an imaginary line between your lower and upper ball joint, that line (near the upper section) should point rearward about 6 degrees. If it does that and you have no drive line vibrations, you are good.
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
Not trying to hijack the thread but where is everyone measuring the caster/pinion angle on their PR's? I know on a stock axle its recommended to measure it on the pinion flange. I'd assume thats the same on a PR but with a yoke its a bit more challenging. I feel I may have some vibes above 65mph but its hard to tell. It sounds like there may be a low toned oscillation. With win and tire noise its hard to hear. I'm not feeling anything in the seat, floorboard, or shifter. Maybe I'm just paranoid and hearing things...haha. Either way I want to know what my caster angle is first before making any adjustments.

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JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
WJCO said:
The angle at the tcase doesn't matter. The driveshaft pointed at the front pinion should be parallel in a perfect world. But on Jeeps, it won't happen. So your aftermarket axle housing has been modified to attempt perfection. If you were to draw an imaginary line between your lower and upper ball joint, that line (near the upper section) should point rearward about 6 degrees. If it does that and you have no drive line vibrations, you are good.
Click to expand...

jesse3638 said:
Not trying to hijack the thread but where is everyone measuring the caster/pinion angle on their PR's? I know on a stock axle its recommended to measure it on the pinion flange. I'd assume thats the same on a PR but with a yoke its a bit more challenging. I feel I may have some vibes above 65mph but its hard to tell. It sounds like there may be a low toned oscillation. With win and tire noise its hard to hear. I'm not feeling anything in the seat, floorboard, or shifter. Maybe I'm just paranoid and hearing things...haha. Either way I want to know what my caster angle is first before making any adjustments.

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Click to expand...

The only good place I can get a good read is the flat spots on the front of the pig. Why the hell is it so hard for Dynatrac to just put a number to that than some imaginary line between the ball joints? I mean it’s a good place to get a good read


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MericaMade

MericaMade

Active Member
JKbrick said:
Lmao!! The housing said either 6* or an extra 6*, I don’t know what they mean. The driveshaft is pointed dead straight at the transfer case and the angle of the pig is 82. Factory pig angle is 88


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Click to expand...
I measure mine from the top of the knuckle and set my tool to be centered with the zert fitting on the ball joint.

I fought driveline vibrations in the beginning and was more concerned about castor angle and it was Fiend who pointed out I should focus on my drive shaft angle. Once I focused on that it left me just over 5 degrees of castor.
 
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JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
Took Brick in to get the toe set and have them tell me what the caster is at so I can make adjustments accordingly. I had the toe in really close and the wheel centered but the caster is at 1.5


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jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
JKbrick said:
Took Brick in to get the toe set and have them tell me what the caster is at so I can make adjustments accordingly. I had the toe in really close and the wheel centered but the caster is at 1.5


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Click to expand...

I measured my PR44 on the flat spot on front of the diff, I think I'm at 4.5 or 5.

I'll measure it tomorrow and post a pic
 
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