MericaMade
Active Member
Did they tell you where they measure the Caster from? Did they go 1.5 degrees back from 90?
My life with a Brick
- Thread starter JKbrick
- Start date
JKbrick
Active Member
JKbrick
Active Member
I watched him measure it, they turned the wheel right and took a measurement then left and took a measurement. He had some tool that sat on the face of the wheel and gave him the degrees
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fiend
Caught the Bug
Sorry but whatever they guy gave you is not caster. If you had caster of 1.5 degrees your Jeep would be very difficult to drive.
Assuming you have the PR unlimited, just adjust your control arms so the pinion is in alignment with the front driveshaft. That will eliminate vibrations. Depending upon your lift, your resulting caster will be anywhere in the 4-7 degrees range, which is fine. I have a 4.5” lift and ended up with 5 degrees of caster with a PR44 unlimited.
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JKbrick
Active Member
I guess I’m not sure then? I do know it drove like absolute shit at first, I had to fight the wheel just to stay in one lane. I thought it looked like the wheels were pointing out quite a bit and I assumed it didn’t know which wheel to follow. Getting the toe set helped so I can stay in one lane now but it still takes both hands on the wheel to drive.
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JKbrick
Active Member
fiend
Caught the Bug
So in my experience tracking issues like that are either too little caster or improper toe. Your photo suggests 7.7 degrees of caster which should be plenty if not a bit too much.
I would suspect toe is your issue but you said your guy set it correctly?
If you have brand new ball joints, that can make initial handling a handful but not like what you describe and it settles down pretty quickly.
Maybe take it to an alignment shop and post the specs.
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Snboarder113
Hooked
Measure the toe yourself with a friend and a tape measure, if it wants to jump lanes and bump steer thats where I would start.
Seahawkfan
Hooked
I think I have mentioned this before, but when I set my toe I used a shower curtain rod. Got front and back of tire the same and then brought the toe in just a little. Worked a lot better than a tape measure. I'm sure an alignment shop is probably the better way to go.
JKbrick
Active Member
How about this?
I reread the paperwork from Dynatrac but I just can’t make sense of it. The only issue I have now since I shortened the uppers my bump stops are not lined up anymore.
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MericaMade
Active Member
Take a picture of your drive shaft angle as well. Fiend really helped me dial in my front focusing on the drive line angle and then the caster.
jeeeep
Hooked
here is where my PR44 Unlimited is set measures on the flat spot front of the the diff
This should also help you understand the offset:
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/17709-Dynatrac-PR44-Unlimited?p=314024&viewfull=1#post314024
From Dynatrac pdf file:
The stock Dana 44 Rubicon and standard ProRock 44 axle housing come from the factory with 6 degrees of angular separation between the caster axis and the pinion axis. When installed in the stock position the caster is configured at 4 degrees with the pinion up 2 degrees. This is the way the standard ProRock 44 is configured to replace a stock axle.
The ProRock 44 Unlimited housing has 10 degrees of separation between the pinion and caster axises. This allows the end user to run between 6 and 8 degrees caster with a pinion angle between 2 and 4 degrees pointed up.
This should also help you understand the offset:
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/17709-Dynatrac-PR44-Unlimited?p=314024&viewfull=1#post314024
From Dynatrac pdf file:
The stock Dana 44 Rubicon and standard ProRock 44 axle housing come from the factory with 6 degrees of angular separation between the caster axis and the pinion axis. When installed in the stock position the caster is configured at 4 degrees with the pinion up 2 degrees. This is the way the standard ProRock 44 is configured to replace a stock axle.
The ProRock 44 Unlimited housing has 10 degrees of separation between the pinion and caster axises. This allows the end user to run between 6 and 8 degrees caster with a pinion angle between 2 and 4 degrees pointed up.
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JKbrick
Active Member
I feel so retarded that I don’t understand separation of caster and pinion angle, I can’t get my angle finder on the pinion
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MericaMade
Active Member
Put your transfer case in neutral turn your front drive shaft where the yolk is flat and if needed put a socket on it if you need extra height and take that measurement. You should have between 2-4 degrees.
Place the angle finder underneath the axle close to the inside of a tire and zero it out to the ground. Then place it on top of the knuckle next to the ball joint facing out toward the driver side and that will give you your caster 4-6.
Edit. Your driveline looks pretty straight so I bet you're between 4 and 5 degrees of caster.
Place the angle finder underneath the axle close to the inside of a tire and zero it out to the ground. Then place it on top of the knuckle next to the ball joint facing out toward the driver side and that will give you your caster 4-6.
Edit. Your driveline looks pretty straight so I bet you're between 4 and 5 degrees of caster.
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JKbrick
Active Member
Thank you I’ll try that after we get home, left to go to a church thing for a bit.
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MericaMade
Active Member
If your talking about the angle finder, I use this app called Clinometer that is free in the Play Store then verify it with my real one and they're always the same.
JKbrick
Active Member
JKbrick
Active Member
My eye was right on with the rear pinion angle
Not as close on the front
But I checked and this number is the same as the pinion angle
And this number is the same as on top of the knuckle and a lot easier to get to
The only thing I don’t like is I had the axle centered on the bump stops before I had to shorten the upper arms, now it is not centered anymore
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Not as close on the front
But I checked and this number is the same as the pinion angle
And this number is the same as on top of the knuckle and a lot easier to get to
The only thing I don’t like is I had the axle centered on the bump stops before I had to shorten the upper arms, now it is not centered anymore
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catahoula
Caught the Bug
Thanks I will check out. I have a double cardan in the garage I need to install to replace the double rzeppa.