Not too proud to admit I can’t do something.

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
If I remeber correctly, in 2017 the WK2 went to a different strut design verses 2011-2016. I recall a company by the name of Jeepin By Al giving up on producing a 4 inch kit for the WK2 because they couldn't get the kit to work with 2017-2018 WK2s.

There are a small number of companies that make control arms for WK2s, but it is limited.

I gave up, too.


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notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
Why do you think I traded mine for the JK? [emoji23]

Don’t get me wrong I LOVED that Jeep, and LOVED the power plant it had and it was a great highway cruiser and errand runner, but I missed wheeling with solid axles like in my WJ....which I haven’t given up on TOTALLY yet [emoji849]


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At least it’s my wife’s


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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
There will be no lifted WK2 Grand Cherokee, by my hands. I’ve worked on it all day, and the strut is hitting the inner fender. Screw it. That thing can stay stock. I’ll only ever wrench on a real Jeep, from now on.

:cheesy: I feel your pain. I like IFS but I hate working on IFS :icon_crazy:
 

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
Sorry to hear you're having trouble with this lift. It's hard to admit defeat.

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oneOone

New member
These are a pain to lift. When I did the rocky road lift on my wife’s 2012 wk2 it was a pain. Ended up ripping cvc axle boot and having to find one that would fit at Napa.
If I did again I’d pull axles.



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VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
I did a spacer lift on my buddies RAM 1500 with IFS. Rear was simple, solid axle just put the spacer in between the spring and the frame. For his front we replaced the shock. The height was set with a little circlip,
IMG_6761.JPG
same spring was reused and strut went back in without any problems. His did not have the sway bar link attached to it though. The install of the front wasn’t so bad except that we were using autozone spring compressors and had to cut of the little nut on top the shock to take the whole assembly apart. Took like an hour to cut of each nut.
I feel your pain, things aren’t always working the way we would like them to. I respect the fact you can admit the defeat.

Well fuck, since you started this thread, please allow me to vent some of my frustration in here.

Long story short I got all 5 AEV wheels replaced under warranty free of charge, and was offered to pick form any wheels I wanted. I decided to go with their new beadlocks. Got the wheels, they came with galvanized metric bolts. I really wanted to have black bolts on my beadlock rings. Spent few days looking for bolts in phosphate finish. It’s really fucking hard to find metric bolts. I wanted to go with 12points or button heads, couldn’t find shit in the grade I needed. Spent few more days researching grading and blot class. Eventually I settled on same type of bolt (flange bolt) within the same class 10.9. Ordered the bolts, after they came in, the threads weren’t quite as long as I needed them to be.
IMG_6705.jpg
IMG_6709.jpg
I decided to extend the threads with my little tapping jig 🤪. Spent couple hours doing so and did about 50 out of 120
IMG_6715.jpg
IMG_6716.jpg
IMG_6719.jpg
This past Saturday I tried mounting my spare tire. About 8 to 10 bolt holes started stripping before I even got close to closing the gap between the ring and the wheel. Some bolts literally fucking poped out, pulling the threads out with them.
IMG_6721.jpg
IMG_6729.jpg
IMG_6735.jpg
I abandoned the project, fought to pull the fucking rim back out of the tire. I did more research on bolts and extending the threads and shit. I found that I am using full body bolts. When those are extruded, a little angle at the end of the threads if left of.
IMG_6763.jpg
If you try to extend the threads over that angle you end up with two or three incomplete threads.
IMG_6762.jpg
Not sure if this I what caused the bolts hole to strip because they were stripping way before that area of the bolt was threaded in.

I am getting another wheel sent over from AEV. But what do I do now? Did I make a mistake or was is just defective wheel? Are those wheels just shit and the next one will strip them same way? Do I swallow my pride and just use their bolts, are they special in some way? But I don’t want the galvanized bolts, I want the fucking black phosphate bolts. Do I just sell those wheels and go with something else? I like those fucking wheels though. I can’t find the correct length bolts. Custom made bolts can only be made with a minimum of 2500 pieces, which is a little more than I need.

I am so fucking frustrated. I have done enough research on bolt class and manufacturing processes that I’ll be a writing fucking a book on bolts soon. I am absolutely dumbfounded. Fuck me, I just spent 30 minutes writing this post..... not sure If I feel any better about myself right now.

cheers mate, [emoji482]
 
Last edited:

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
I did a spacer lift on my buddies RAM 1500 with IFS. Rear was simple, solid axle just put the spacer in between the spring and the frame. For his front we replaced the shock. The height was set with a little circlip,
View attachment 303040
same spring was reused and strut went back in without any problems. His did not have the sway bar link attached to it though. The install of the front wasn’t so bad except that we were using autozone spring compressors and had to cut of the little nut on top the shock to take the whole assembly apart. Took like an hour to cut of each nut.
I feel your pain, things aren’t always working the way we would like them to. I respect the fact you can admit the defeat.

Well fuck, since you started this thread, please allow me to vent some of my frustration in here.

Long story short I got all 5 AEV wheels replaced under warranty free of charge, and was offered to pick form any wheels I wanted. I decided to go with their new beadlocks. Got the wheels, they came with galvanized metric bolts. I really wanted to have black bolts on my beadlock rings. Spent few days looking for bolts in phosphate finish. It’s really fucking hard to find metric bolts. I wanted to go with 12points or button heads, couldn’t find shit in the grade I needed. Spent few more days researching grading and blot class. Eventually I settled on same type of bolt (flange bolt) within the same class 10.9. Ordered the bolts, after they came in, the threads weren’t quite as long as I needed them to be.
View attachment 303043
View attachment 303044
I decided to extend the threads with my little tapping jig 🤪. Spent couple hours doing so and did about 50 out of 120
View attachment 303045
View attachment 303046
View attachment 303047
This past Saturday I tried mounting my spare tire. About 8 to 10 bolt holes started stripping before I even got close to closing the gap between the ring and the wheel. Some bolts literally fucking poped out, pulling the threads out with them.
View attachment 303048
View attachment 303049
View attachment 303050
I abandoned the project, fought to pull the fucking rim back out of the tire. I did more research on bolts and extending the threads and shit. I found that I am using full body bolts. When those are extruded, a little angle at the end of the threads if left of.
View attachment 303051
If you try to extend the threads over that angle you end up with two or three incomplete threads.
View attachment 303052
Not sure if this I what caused the bolts hole to strip because they were stripping way before that area of the bolt was threaded in.

I am getting another wheel sent over from AEV. But what do I do now? Did I make a mistake or was is just defective wheel? Are those wheels just shit and the next one will strip them same way? Do I swallow my pride and just use their bolts, are they special in some way? But I don’t want the galvanized bolts, I want the fucking black phosphate bolts. Do I just sell those wheels and go with something else? I like those fucking wheels though. I can’t find the correct length bolts. Custom made bolts can only be made with a minimum of 2500 pieces, which is a little more than I need.

I am so fucking frustrated. I have done enough research on bolt class and manufacturing processes that I’ll be a writing fucking a book on bolts soon. I am absolutely dumbfounded. Fuck me, I just spent 30 minutes writing this post..... not sure If I feel any better about myself right now.

cheers mate, [emoji482]

Holy crap


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Jesus fuck.
Nothing like getting kicked in the nuts every step of a build.
Your a better man than me. I would went for the gas can and lit the fucker my now.
 

jesse3638

Hooked
.....Well fuck, since you started this thread, please allow me to vent some of my frustration in here.

I am getting another wheel sent over from AEV. But what do I do now? Did I make a mistake or was is just defective wheel? Are those wheels just shit and the next one will strip them same way? Do I swallow my pride and just use their bolts, are they special in some way? But I don’t want the galvanized bolts, I want the fucking black phosphate bolts. Do I just sell those wheels and go with something else? I like those fucking wheels though. I can’t find the correct length bolts. Custom made bolts can only be made with a minimum of 2500 pieces, which is a little more than I need.

I am so fucking frustrated. I have done enough research on bolt class and manufacturing processes that I’ll be a writing fucking a book on bolts soon. I am absolutely dumbfounded. Fuck me, I just spent 30 minutes writing this post..... not sure If I feel any better about myself right now.

cheers mate, [emoji482]

My thoughts would be to abandon the bolts you bought. They are going to get mashed on rocks anyway. If you really want black bolts I'd suggest simply painting them. Then you can touch them up if they get mashed up. Stab them all through a piece of cardboard and spray away.
 

VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
My thoughts would be to abandon the bolts you bought. They are going to get mashed on rocks anyway. If you really want black bolts I'd suggest simply painting them. Then you can touch them up if they get mashed up. Stab them all through a piece of cardboard and spray away.

Thanks I think I’ll do that. That was my original idea but I wasn’t sure how well would the paint hold up to a socket. I do have some two part epoxy primer form Eastwood. I’ll probably do two light coats of that and some light coats of paint. Hopefully it’ll hold up. A paint marker would be a great for touching up, I love my paint markers.
 

jesse3638

Hooked
Thanks I think I’ll do that. That was my original idea but I wasn’t sure how well would the paint hold up to a socket. I do have some two part epoxy primer form Eastwood. I’ll probably do two light coats of that and some light coats of paint. Hopefully it’ll hold up. A paint marker would be a great for touching up, I love my paint markers.

After you paint it you can bake them too. 150-175 degrees. It'll help harden the paint, however I'm not sure if there will be any lasting side effects in your oven..haha. Don't want your food to taste like paint.
 

jdofmemi

Active Member
I did a spacer lift on my buddies RAM 1500 with IFS. Rear was simple, solid axle just put the spacer in between the spring and the frame. For his front we replaced the shock. The height was set with a little circlip,
View attachment 303040
same spring was reused and strut went back in without any problems. His did not have the sway bar link attached to it though. The install of the front wasn’t so bad except that we were using autozone spring compressors and had to cut of the little nut on top the shock to take the whole assembly apart. Took like an hour to cut of each nut.
I feel your pain, things aren’t always working the way we would like them to. I respect the fact you can admit the defeat.

Well fuck, since you started this thread, please allow me to vent some of my frustration in here.

Long story short I got all 5 AEV wheels replaced under warranty free of charge, and was offered to pick form any wheels I wanted. I decided to go with their new beadlocks. Got the wheels, they came with galvanized metric bolts. I really wanted to have black bolts on my beadlock rings. Spent few days looking for bolts in phosphate finish. It’s really fucking hard to find metric bolts. I wanted to go with 12points or button heads, couldn’t find shit in the grade I needed. Spent few more days researching grading and blot class. Eventually I settled on same type of bolt (flange bolt) within the same class 10.9. Ordered the bolts, after they came in, the threads weren’t quite as long as I needed them to be.
View attachment 303043
View attachment 303044
I decided to extend the threads with my little tapping jig 🤪. Spent couple hours doing so and did about 50 out of 120
View attachment 303045
View attachment 303046
View attachment 303047
This past Saturday I tried mounting my spare tire. About 8 to 10 bolt holes started stripping before I even got close to closing the gap between the ring and the wheel. Some bolts literally fucking poped out, pulling the threads out with them.
View attachment 303048
View attachment 303049
View attachment 303050
I abandoned the project, fought to pull the fucking rim back out of the tire. I did more research on bolts and extending the threads and shit. I found that I am using full body bolts. When those are extruded, a little angle at the end of the threads if left of.
View attachment 303051
If you try to extend the threads over that angle you end up with two or three incomplete threads.
View attachment 303052
Not sure if this I what caused the bolts hole to strip because they were stripping way before that area of the bolt was threaded in.

I am getting another wheel sent over from AEV. But what do I do now? Did I make a mistake or was is just defective wheel? Are those wheels just shit and the next one will strip them same way? Do I swallow my pride and just use their bolts, are they special in some way? But I don’t want the galvanized bolts, I want the fucking black phosphate bolts. Do I just sell those wheels and go with something else? I like those fucking wheels though. I can’t find the correct length bolts. Custom made bolts can only be made with a minimum of 2500 pieces, which is a little more than I need.

I am so fucking frustrated. I have done enough research on bolt class and manufacturing processes that I’ll be a writing fucking a book on bolts soon. I am absolutely dumbfounded. Fuck me, I just spent 30 minutes writing this post..... not sure If I feel any better about myself right now.

cheers mate, [emoji482]

Wow, that sucks!

Thanks for sharing, maybe you will save someone like me a similar headache one day.

On max zoom, I can just see the 2 questionable threads. They would easily pass on first look, even a second one.

Did you think of asking AEV if they have black bolts?
 

VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
Wow, that sucks!

Thanks for sharing, maybe you will save someone like me a similar headache one day.

On max zoom, I can just see the 2 questionable threads. They would easily pass on first look, even a second one.

Did you think of asking AEV if they have black bolts?

I did ask them about the size of the bolt and mentioned about using black finished bolts when I did my first warranty case with them. They didn’t respond/answered to me about it. That case was closed. I opened a new case for those wheels and I didn’t mention anything about using different bolts. I might ask when I receive the new wheel lol, I kind of feel bad about it but I don’t think it’s gonna hurt their revenue that much. I’ll probably just go the painting route and hope for the best to be honest. I am done with bolts for now.

The questionable threads are there and I can feel them with my finger.
 

VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
I don’t want to hijack this thread by any means. Can a moderator move my posts out of here and create a thread called “the dumbass I am...”

Anyhow, AEV wanted the wheel, the ring and hardware back for an inspection. I decided to come clean, explained the whole situation and what I was trying to do. I will also be sending some of my bolts back to them. I told them if they conclude the failure was due to my bolts I will pay for a new wheel. Waiting to hear back from them, I came clean before they send the new wheel out. I must say I feel better about myself now, even if it’s gonna cost me more money. At leas I am not leaving them puzzled trying to figure out what went wrong.
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
I don’t want to hijack this thread by any means. Can a moderator move my posts out of here and create a thread called “the dumbass I am...”

Anyhow, AEV wanted the wheel, the ring and hardware back for an inspection. I decided to come clean, explained the whole situation and what I was trying to do. I will also be sending some of my bolts back to them. I told them if they conclude the failure was due to my bolts I will pay for a new wheel. Waiting to hear back from them, I came clean before they send the new wheel out. I must say I feel better about myself now, even if it’s gonna cost me more money. At leas I am not leaving them puzzled trying to figure out what went wrong.

I would get the replacement AEV wheel, sell the lot, and buy a set of beadlocks that has recessed bolt heads. Eg Chamber PRO IIs, Slabs, etc. If you are going into the rocks, those protruding bolt heads on the AEV wheels shown in your picture are going to get shredded, look like shit, and not be able to take a wrench or socket next time you need to put new tires on. Shitty design.
 

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
I don’t want to hijack this thread by any means. Can a moderator move my posts out of here and create a thread called “the dumbass I am...”

Anyhow, AEV wanted the wheel, the ring and hardware back for an inspection. I decided to come clean, explained the whole situation and what I was trying to do. I will also be sending some of my bolts back to them. I told them if they conclude the failure was due to my bolts I will pay for a new wheel. Waiting to hear back from them, I came clean before they send the new wheel out. I must say I feel better about myself now, even if it’s gonna cost me more money. At leas I am not leaving them puzzled trying to figure out what went wrong.

I can move it, but it isn’t bothering me, here.


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VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
I would get the replacement AEV wheel, sell the lot, and buy a set of beadlocks that has recessed bolt heads. Eg Chamber PRO IIs, Slabs, etc. If you are going into the rocks, those protruding bolt heads on the AEV wheels shown in your picture are going to get shredded, look like shit, and not be able to take a wrench or socket next time you need to put new tires on. Shitty design.
I don’t really like the design either but they guarantee those bolts will hold up to the rocks.l like the look of those wheels as well. I live in Midwest, I get a chance to come out and play maybe 3-4 times a year. I do play in the rocks when I have a chance to visit the closest off-road Park thats 2 hours away. I’ve been running my non beadlocks wheels at 12psi when crawling without too much struggle. After this whole thing I wonder if I even the beadlock wheels. The Jeep isn’t driven daily too much though, my wife drives it to school, back and around town, maybe 10-20 miles a day tops. Occasional trips on the weekends. Am puzzled...



I can move it, but it isn’t bothering me, here.


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Well, I guess just leave it be.
 
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