Performance 40s vs 37s
- Thread starter Basscat
- Start date
Depends on what gears you're running. Assuming you were running 5.13's with 37's and then bumped up to 5.38's like you should with 40's, the difference won't be too bad. If you were already running 5.38's, the change is very noticeable.
Basscat
Member
Input always appreciated Wayoflife! Have a wonderful New Year everyone!
FYI - will be unloading quite a bit of stuff for those wanting to step up to 37s. Could make a good New Years present! I'll post on appropriate thread.
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GraniteCrystal
New member
Pm sent
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Build thread: http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=32769
I am geared at 5.13 now and on 37's. If nothing else were to be changed I am wondering how much worse the tires alone would suck the life out of it.
You'll feel the difference for sure but I would think it'd be tolerable so long as you're not in an area where you have to do a lot of climbing of grades.
Colorado2003
New member
I just switched from 37s to 40s 6 month ago. I'm running 513s right now and live in Colorado where the hill get me but it is not that bad and plenty tolerable in my opinion. I do plan on moving up to 5.38s this summer though. Just my 2 cents.
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Mike_JK_Houston_711
New member
Thoughts on running 40's and bolt on coilovers? I plan on doing 60/60 in the next few months, so axles will be covered. Just curious as to how the bolt on co's will handle the bigger axles and 40s. I don't plan on going DTD at all since I'm not bombing deserts. Thoughts?
Edit: currently running 37s
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Edit: currently running 37s
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Last edited:
tgoss
New member
I don't understand what your concern would be? The bolt on coilover kit from Evo will play extremely nice with 40's and bigger axles.
13_gecko_rubi
Caught the Bug
tgoss
New member
I'd say they do a smidge more than fine. That's sick man. :like:
TrainWreck618
Caught the Bug
It's hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like your rubbing your coilovers at full stuff.
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13_gecko_rubi
Caught the Bug
Nope. Everything is pretty much maxed out like it should be. Tire just barely touches fender, drag link about 1/4" to frame and coil over has about 1/4" clearance around it.
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As a daily driver or crawling on the rocks, I totally agree. Driving hard and fast across the desert, no way I'd want to do it. Hell, I did it with 37's and now run DTD's on my both my JK's. Of course, this isn't something he said he would be doing.
Mike_JK_Houston_711
New member
As a daily driver or crawling on the rocks, I totally agree. Driving hard and fast across the desert, no way I'd want to do it. Hell, I did it with 37's and now run DTD's on my both my JK's. Of course, this isn't something he said he would be doing.
Thanks guys. As mentioned before I'm not driving fast off-road, but more slower rock crawling and ledges. I just wanted to make sure that this was an ideal situation before getting too far ahead of myself.
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13_gecko_rubi
Caught the Bug
You'll be fine with the bolt one. The rare occasion if I want to "get it" (for instance if going to sand dunes etc) I just add some more preload to get some more uptravel. Takes maybe 15 min. If I was regularly doing high speed I'd go to DTD in a heartbeat but I live in Michigan so I know that isn't happening any time soon.
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"Ideal" is relative to the person looking to go coil overs. If it were me, I personally would still run the DTD kit only without the bypass shocks.
13_gecko_rubi
Caught the Bug
That's definitely a better option for future upgrade potential.
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Mike_JK_Houston_711
New member
So it's possible to upgrade to DTD minus bypass shocks, if I already have the bolt ons? That is great to know for the future. Thanks.
Edit: never mind, don't think this would work...
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NO. Or should I say, not as of now. There might be an option available in the future though.