Mike_JK_Houston_711
New member
Got it. I really hope they decide to make he upgrade kit for existing bolt on owners. In your opinion, would you say 60% likely EVO males that product? More less? [emoji23]
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Performance 40s vs 37s
- Thread starter Basscat
- Start date
Got it. I really hope they decide to make he upgrade kit for existing bolt on owners. In your opinion, would you say 60% likely EVO males that product? More less? [emoji23]
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13_gecko_rubi
Caught the Bug
Think about what the upgrade kit would be.
In front, you'd need to get the DTD towers. You may be able to reuse your coilovers but you'd need to rebuild them and change valving. The valving is much lighter in the DTD coilovers as the bypasses do a lot of the dampening.
In the rear you can't use anything as the coilovers are different length and you need the whole DTD bracketry system.
To upgrade you'd be better off selling your bolt ons, which are easy to remove since they are bolt ons, and buying the DTD.
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Mike_JK_Houston_711
New member
Would upgrading the front and leaving the rear as bolt on be a realistic option? Again, I doubt I'll ever need this but I'm just trying to get a full understanding. Thanks for your help so far.
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13_gecko_rubi
Caught the Bug
I talked with ORE a year ago about upgrading mine to complete DTD. They kind of told me what I said above. If I did some quick math it made more sense to sell mine and just buy the DTD system. I'm sorry I missed the part where u said to upgrade without bypasses. In front that I guess would just be the towers as you wouldn't necessarily need to revalve them. But I also don't know if that is true, just guessing. I know the bolt ons are valved to run lcog so maybe it is different, maybe they would work on the DTD towers, just don't know. I know if I had to pick a side to upgrade first it would be the rear vs the front.
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Mike_JK_Houston_711
New member
Thanks man. Appreciate all your help. Definitely food for thought here. If you end up upgrading let me know!
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13_gecko_rubi
Caught the Bug
The valving is different for sure. The actual shock minus valving not sure, would need to call EVO and ask. I believe the bolt on kit uses unique coilovers with custom length shock bodies, they aren't just off the shelf 12" kings with EVO valving. I don't know if the DTD uses the same shock bodies, would need to ask the folks that make them to be 100% certain. After a quick conversation with them on what I'm planning to do next it made more sense to sell the bolt ons so i didn't get into the very nitty gritty details on converting my fronts to reuse them.
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Robertcrav
Member
In the go fast segment, I believe the coilover is more often just a coil Carrier shock and the bypass carries the valving if you run both ... Evo may do something different
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Tiaan
New member
I'm so subscribing! I have a bone stock 08 rubi and is putting together my list and want to make sure I do my home work properly. Thank you to folks that have gone before us newbies so that we can learn from you
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Tiaan
New member
What does the "DTD" stand for? Maybe a stupid question, but I have been out of the jeep talk for too long.[emoji57][emoji57]
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13_gecko_rubi
Caught the Bug
Exactly. There is typically some light valving in the coilovers on most so it shares some of the heat generated going fast.
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I am in the middle of an LS3 swap right now. With over 500hp I am not overly concerned about it but I do feel that 40's might take a little bit of the fun of having all that power out of it and make it feel a bit more pedestrian.
Robertcrav
Member
Tiaan
New member
:cheesy: Ummm, no. Didn't realize you were doing an LS3 swap. If you're doing a Motech kit, get whatever gears Robbie recommends and you're Jeep will still feel like a bat out of hell even with 40's.
I didn't mention it upfront because I wanted some honest answers about how much it sucks the life out of a stock vehicle. I was getting some other opinions on the subject on another forum recently and basically for "on road performance" I am of the opinion that tire size / weight has a significant role. Tire height can be countered by gear ratio but rotational mass is harder to overcome and plays a bigger role in acceleration and braking I believe. Pretty much any 40" tire once you add the wheel weight in are well over 100lbs a corner. That takes a LOT of power to overcome.
I'm already geared to 5.13 and really don't feel like doing that job again for the 3rd time on this jeep. It may be a little steep with the 6l80 ratios but oh well...
tgoss
New member
I didn't mention it upfront because I wanted some honest answers about how much it sucks the life out of a stock vehicle. I was getting some other opinions on the subject on another forum recently and basically for "on road performance" I am of the opinion that tire size / weight has a significant role. Tire height can be countered by gear ratio but rotational mass is harder to overcome and plays a bigger role in acceleration and braking I believe. Pretty much any 40" tire once you add the wheel weight in are well over 100lbs a corner. That takes a LOT of power to overcome.
I'm already geared to 5.13 and really don't feel like doing that job again for the 3rd time on this jeep. It may be a little steep with the 6l80 ratios but oh well...
Well you nailed it. Unsprung weight on any vehicle is the most effective to the powertrain. Obviously overall weight is going to play a roll but the actual rotating mass of the wheels/tires/brakes all the way back to the crank is where you'll feel it and will affect the performance in any vehicle.
However, with an LS3, first I'm envious, second I know that with the gear ratio of 5.13's you'll be a little deep for that tranny but like you said it won't be too much and you'll love the shit out of it. That picture is making me drool.
tgoss
New member
And not to thread jack this but while we are discussing suspensions I'm wondering for myself personally if I should upgrade to a DTD or custom coilover set up and keep playing on 37's with my current axles first or bump up to full floats and 40's then address suspension later?
LS3 is going to come for me well down the road unfortunately.
LS3 is going to come for me well down the road unfortunately.
Basscat
Member
Basscat
Member
I didn't mention it upfront because I wanted some honest answers about how much it sucks the life out of a stock vehicle. I was getting some other opinions on the subject on another forum recently and basically for "on road performance" I am of the opinion that tire size / weight has a significant role. Tire height can be countered by gear ratio but rotational mass is harder to overcome and plays a bigger role in acceleration and braking I believe. Pretty much any 40" tire once you add the wheel weight in are well over 100lbs a corner. That takes a LOT of power to overcome.
I'm already geared to 5.13 and really don't feel like doing that job again for the 3rd time on this jeep. It may be a little steep with the 6l80 ratios but oh well...
I wouldn't worry about that set up running 5.13s. HWY RPM numbers are great. Crawl ratios are good no matter what T-case ratio you have and it will drive like a go cart around town!
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