PRESS RELEASE : Meet The New Jeep JK BIG BORE XDII-R

VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
The benefit over hydro is reliability. There are less parts to leak, lines to blow, etc. With the size of this box I don't think I wouldn't be worried about the sector shaft anymore.

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For me, it came down to two factors, tire size and one less failure point. I only plan on running 37s and the XDll handles them very well, even locked up and buried in sand and mud. Rocks were easy for it. The second of having one less system to fail whether it was the ram or extra lines was also appealing. If I was running 40s or planned on it, I would have gone towards the ram, which I can always add later. But for me this has been the correct route.


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Agreed


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J

JKDream

Guest
For me, it came down to two factors, tire size and one less failure point. I only plan on running 37s and the XDll handles them very well, even locked up and buried in sand and mud. Rocks were easy for it. The second of having one less system to fail whether it was the ram or extra lines was also appealing. If I was running 40s or planned on it, I would have gone towards the ram, which I can always add later. But for me this has been the correct route.


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That's good to hear. My stock steering gets absolutely manhandled in the rocks. Need to hop it to turn, which ends up breaking shit. Hopefully this shows up in Canada soon.

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aTX427

New member
I am upgrading my PS plumbing to all -AN fittings. For those of you with the new XD2 gear box and cylinder assist, what type of bend works best for the fittings coming out of the XD2 box on the PS pump side and cylinder side? It looks like they include 45* hose ends for the cylinder assist loop and straight fittings for the steering pump loop, but was't sure if there is a better configuration.
 

wjtstudios

Hooked
I am upgrading my PS plumbing to all -AN fittings. For those of you with the new XD2 gear box and cylinder assist, what type of bend works best for the fittings coming out of the XD2 box on the PS pump side and cylinder side? It looks like they include 45* hose ends for the cylinder assist loop and straight fittings for the steering pump loop, but was't sure if there is a better configuration.

Matching the OEM lines for the supply and return lines makes the most sense. I'm not running a ram off it, so I am not sure on the best route to the take the lines from the box, but yes, they are about 45 degrees off the box.


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kawimoto

Member
Happy to help! It's I fun install. If you do install it your self, make sure you order a 46 mm socket ahead of time to secure the Putnam arm.

And bring a buddy or two to help lift this heavy MFer into place.:eek: It's worth it though once it's in. another thing, lead with the rear of the box first then pivot the front in, its a very tight fit even with the front fender liner removed. Also this box drops the pitman arm ever so slightly, about 3/4'' so you'll have to shorten the drag link a touch to get steering wheel back to center. it wasn't off much but enough to bother me.
 
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Jkjon

New member
Happy to help! It's I fun install. If you do install it your self, make sure you order a 46 mm socket ahead of time to secure the Putnam arm.

And bring a buddy or two to help lift this heavy MFer into place.:eek: It's worth it though once it's in. another thing, lead with the rear of the box first then pivot the front in, its a very tight fit even with the front fender liner removed. Also this box drops the pitman arm ever so slightly, about 3/4'' so you'll have to shorten the drag link a touch to get steering wheel back to center. it wasn't off much but enough to bother me.

Is there a torque spec on this massive pitman bolt? Or just until the lock washer is compressed?


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I have the XDll up and in! It is a beast to lift up and install from the bottom. I had a strap lowered down from the with my dad at to top taking up the slack as it went in. If you go in from the bottom, you will need to disconnect the front left ABS wire and pull that harness out of the way to get it in. Secure that lower front bolt thru the frame and it is easy from there. Good luck!


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Thanks for the tips this going to be one of the many mods for christmas break this year can't wait.
 

wjtstudios

Hooked
It’s one of the best mods I’ve done to mine. Put it to work yesterday in the sand and mud locked up and it had no issues. Don’t hesitate to to PM me once you get underway if you have any questions on the install.


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It’s one of the best mods I’ve done to mine. Put it to work yesterday in the sand and mud locked up and it had no issues. Don’t hesitate to to PM me once you get underway if you have any questions on the install.


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Besides the 46mm socket for the pitman arm is there anything else that need yo be purchased besides the gearbox itself? Trying to prep ahead. Thanks.
 

wjtstudios

Hooked
A toque wrench that goes to at least 225. Otherwise it’s all standard tools. Plan on upgrading your drag link too. It will bend a OEM unit. You can rent a “pickle fork” pry bar at the auto parts store to pry the knuckle side loose. That’s all I can think of.


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Jkjon

New member
Got mine installed and it works great. Jeep would almost bog down trying to turn sitting still at idle before. However, I’m now curious if it would feel even better if I added the high flow pump / reservoir kit (for 3.8L)? Currently running stock pump with a single pass cooler.. Any of you guys run this with the stock pump then switch to the high flow pump and notice a difference?


IMG_6615.jpg IMG_6618.jpg


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wjtstudios

Hooked
Got mine installed and it works great. Jeep would almost bog down trying to turn sitting still at idle before. However, I’m now curious if it would feel even better if I added the high flow pump / reservoir kit (for 3.8L)? Currently running stock pump with a single pass cooler.. Any of you guys run this with the stock pump then switch to the high flow pump and notice a difference?


View attachment 281281 View attachment 281282


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Great question! I’d like to know as well.


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A toque wrench that goes to at least 225. Otherwise it’s all standard tools. Plan on upgrading your drag link too. It will bend a OEM unit. You can rent a “pickle fork” pry bar at the auto parts store to pry the knuckle side loose. That’s all I can think of.


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Cool, thanks, yeah I'm riding on steer smarts Griffin drag link right now, Pretty nice ride I must say.
 
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