Pro rock

wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Tire size and vehicle weight make a big difference but yeah, just because you have a 60 doesn't mean you can't break it. Trust me, we've been able to do it and with a 3.8L motor. That's why we run a ProRock 80 in the rear now. Of course, once the new ProRock XD60 is available, it'll have a bigger and beefier ring gear and it'll make it that much harder to break :yup:
 
ERAUGrad04

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
cozdude said:
Since RCV says they are the "strongest shaft on the market" that means that the weak link in the axle moves to either the ring and pinion or the driveshaft. I wouldn't want to have either of them break so I opted for chromoly shafts. This means the weak link is the u joint which is easier to fix on the trail.
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Lance628 said:
Coz if you don't mind me asking why did you not want rcv shafts ??
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I completely get the theory of the u-joint being the weak link. However, when I spoke with Dynatrac, they have only heard of ONE R&P break in a front D44 and have never seen one personally. The majority of R&P stress is on the rear R&P and it sees the majority of stress and heat.

All said, Dynatrac highly recommend the RCVs.

I think one can always "plan" their weak point, but all breaks aren't always equal. I have now seen quite a few front u-joint breaks and one actually wiped out the outer c on a PR44.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Sudz

Sudz

New member
ERAUGrad04 said:
I completely get the theory of the u-joint being the weak link. However, when I spoke with Dynatrac, they have only heard of ONE R&P break in a front D44 and have never seen one personally. The majority of R&P stress is on the rear R&P and it sees the majority of stress and heat.

All said, Dynatrac highly recommend the RCVs.

I think one can always "plan" their weak point, but all breaks aren't always equal. I have now seen quite a few front u-joint breaks and one actually wiped out the outer c on a PR44.
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I had this very discussion last week with a local club member who did the exact same thing. I don't see the value of planning for a weak link in the setup. Go bombproof for what you can afford and run it.
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
ERAUGrad04 said:
I completely get the theory of the u-joint being the weak link. However, when I spoke with Dynatrac, they have only heard of ONE R&P break in a front D44 and have never seen one personally. The majority of R&P stress is on the rear R&P and it sees the majority of stress and heat.

All said, Dynatrac highly recommend the RCVs.

I think one can always "plan" their weak point, but all breaks aren't always equal. I have now seen quite a few front u-joint breaks and one actually wiped out the outer c on a PR44.
Click to expand...

Sudz said:
I had this very discussion last week with a local club member who did the exact same thing. I don't see the value of planning for a weak link in the setup. Go bombproof for what you can afford and run it.
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True you can never "plan" your weak link but if I could at least try to plan it I would want to blow a u joint than anything else.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Well, I'm gonna be that guy that goes against what Dynatrac highly recommends. RCV's are quite at first and they are strong but after a lot of hard use, the bearings start to make really loud snapping sounds and whenever I hear it, I always feel like something is about to break. RCV claims this is normal but honestly, there's nothing that sounds normal about it to me. Have your doubts, talk to people like Moochie or RanchoRubi and ask them about their RCV's. As far as their supposed no questions asked warranty that's suppose to back up their indestructible shafts, ask jnabird about the severely twisted splines on his RCV's and how they said that it was totally normal and within spec.

RCV-twist-02.jpg

I have run RCV's in the past and while they are good enough shafts and ones that I might even be willing to pay the premium for again, it really bugs me that they don't really stand behind their products the way they say they will. And really, what good is a warranty when you're busted up on the trail. In the end, I have found chromoly shafts with full circle clips to do just as good of a job, for a LOT LESS and with fewer problems. Of course, I run the Dyantrac competition shafts with CTM u-joints on my front 60 instead of RCV's. But, that's just me.
 
ERAUGrad04

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
cozdude said:
True you can never "plan" your weak link but if I could at least try to plan it I would want to blow a u joint than anything else.
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But the data just isn't there supporting the theory that going with u-joint style shafts will save your R&P.

I'm a "show me the data" kind of guy and it just isn't there. A u-joint breaking doesn't automatically mean it's a clean break and the only effected component. It can destroy the shaft and in a few cases, has destroyed the end forging.
 
Dynatrac

Dynatrac

-
Joker151 said:
What is the difference between the regular ProRock and the XD?
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There are quite a few differences between the Dynatrac ProRock 60 and the ProRock XD60, and yes, it will be offered as a front and a rear axle. The XD60 uses a 10.1-inch diameter ring gear and it has the largest axle tubes in the industry (3.75-inches OD), which gives you stronger axle tubes without requiring heavy, 1/2-inch wall thickness. Overall, the XD60 is lighter than the ProRock 60. The XD60 uses larger carrier bearings and pinion bearings, and it will feature larger wheel ends. You can find more info here: http://www.dynatrac.com/blog/dynatr...sign-stronger-lighter-versatile-prorock-xd60/

We'll release more info as we're closer to launch, but we also want to point out that the ProRock 60 is plenty for many applications. The XD60 is an intermediate step for people who need more than our legendary ProRock 60 but don't quite need a ProRock 80.
 
2Cross

2Cross

Caught the Bug
ERAUGrad04 said:
But the data just isn't there supporting the theory that going with u-joint style shafts will save your R&P.

I'm a "show me the data" kind of guy and it just isn't there. A u-joint breaking doesn't automatically mean it's a clean break and the only effected component. It can destroy the shaft and in a few cases, has destroyed the end forging.
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Four years ago when I built my rig. I designed the u-joint to fail. I put a 1310 on my front driveshaft.
Well it did fail and I also broke my yoke into my transfer case. I now carry a spare driveshaft and yoke.

If I was to do it over, would put a 1350 u-joint and not a 1310.
 
ERAUGrad04

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
2Cross said:
Four years ago when I built my rig. I designed the u-joint to fail. I put a 1310 on my front driveshaft.
Well it did fail and I also broke my yoke into my transfer case. I now carry a spare driveshaft and yoke.

If I was to do it over, would put a 1350 u-joint and not a 1310.
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Unfortunately, the 1310 is actually a little weaker than the 1330 u-joint found on the factory shaft.

A 1350 is a great joint for the font shaft.
 
ERAUGrad04

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
Dynatrac said:
There are quite a few differences between the Dynatrac ProRock 60 and the ProRock XD60, and yes, it will be offered as a front and a rear axle. The XD60 uses a 10.1-inch diameter ring gear and it has the largest axle tubes in the industry (3.75-inches OD), which gives you stronger axle tubes without requiring heavy, 1/2-inch wall thickness. Overall, the XD60 is lighter than the ProRock 60. The XD60 uses larger carrier bearings and pinion bearings, and it will feature larger wheel ends. You can find more info here: http://www.dynatrac.com/blog/dynatr...sign-stronger-lighter-versatile-prorock-xd60/

We'll release more info as we're closer to launch, but we also want to point out that the ProRock 60 is plenty for many applications. The XD60 is an intermediate step for people who need more than our legendary ProRock 60 but don't quite need a ProRock 80.
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Any chance the XD60 will be offered in factory width semi-float rest axle?

I'm thinking a SF PR60 would be a great match to my PR44 front but the added strength of the XD60 is intriguing and it would be great if offered in that configuration.
 
GCM 2

GCM 2

New member
ERAUGrad04 said:
Any chance the XD60 will be offered in factory width semi-float rest axle?

I'm thinking a SF PR60 would be a great match to my PR44 front but the added strength of the XD60 is intriguing and it would be great if offered in that configuration.
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There really is no point in making the XD a non-full float axle. If you are needing the increase in ring and pinion strength that the XD60 offers, which is only 16% more than the already badass PR60, than it is likely that you are also needing their strength that the full float offers. When comparing the full float 60's to a Trail 60 (standard flange) the increases in overall strength are dramatic. If you are not absolutely and completely certain that you need a full float rear axle, stick with the Trail 60. BUT, If there is one smidgen of doubt, Iike you are going to run 37's or bigger tires, going to wheel hard (subjective to each off-roader, just watch any Wayalife video like The JKX series for example of hard) and going to carry everything you need to survive a good challenging day, weekend or week on the trail (think lots of additional sprung weight) and then continue to do this multiple times a year for years to come, buy a PR60 with chromoly comp shafts and be done with it. If you think you still need more drivetrain insurance than a PR60 offers, and are really concerned about having less clearance and a low pinion housing that the PR80 has, then buy the XD60.
 
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Lance628

Lance628

New member
Prorock

I'm getting ready to order my pr44 and I noticed it comes in a standard, unlimited , heavy duty and unlimited heavy duty version what's the difference? I couldn't seem to find anything about it on the site
 
ERAUGrad04

ERAUGrad04

Caught the Bug
Lance628 said:
I'm getting ready to order my pr44 and I noticed it comes in a standard, unlimited , heavy duty and unlimited heavy duty version what's the difference? I couldn't seem to find anything about it on the site
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Standard is a direct replacement for a D30/44
Unlimited has 4 more degrees of caster pinion separation (10* vs 6*)
Heavy duty utilizes 1/2" Wall tubing
Unlimited/Heavy Duty has the extra caster AND thicker tubes

Unless you don't have a lift, you are probably going to want the Unlimited version at a minimum. Most go for the Unlimited/Heavy Duty for the added strength.
 
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