Problem with Yeti drag Link. Input needed or new drag link recomendations.

[wayoflife]

Eddie is your drag link not flipped? Just wondering because don't you need to flip if running more than three inches of lift.

In the pic that I posted, I was still running a ProRock 44 and I was running a factory RH drag link flipped. I now have an XD60 with PRO1550 knuckles and running a factory drag link in the standard setup. This can be done because the steering arm on the knuckle is higher than factory.

 

[jeeeep]

I've had this happen with other drag links as well but I have the same draglink that you have and the boot has been torn for the last year.

only issue I worry about is making sure when I wash it, lots of rain or been on the trail I grease is as soon as I can until I decide how to replace it with something better.

Even though I have it centered and flat when on level ground, the draglink will flip to one side or the other on articulation pinching that boot.

IMO there is too much boot, I'm looking for a lower profile boot to replace it with...maybe energy suspensions

 

[stzd8]

I've had this happen with other drag links as well but I have the same draglink that you have and the boot has been torn for the last year.

only issue I worry about is making sure when I wash it, lots of rain or been on the trail I grease is as soon as I can until I decide how to replace it with something better.

Even though I have it centered and flat when on level ground, the draglink will flip to one side or the other on articulation pinching that boot.

IMO there is too much boot, I'm looking for a lower profile boot to replace it with...maybe energy suspensions

Which drag links you had problems with (besides Yeti)? It will help me cut down the list to look at. I am debating if I should buy a mopar (flopping) drag link and pray. The manufacturer from Steersmart told me that maybe the cause of my 'bad luck' is that my pitman arm has the hole bigger letting the ball joint sit deeper squeezing the boot.

So far after the holiday days are over, I am thinking:
1) replace the boot (have one last spare)
2) replace the drag link end (spare $140)
3) get other brand drag link.

If I got option 3, I am looking at stock, currie, and synergy. But I hear pros and cons from both currie and synergy too.

 

[stitch1]

Subbing to this thread. I might be having the same issue. I tore the same boot this weekend. However, it could have been a freak wheeling accident, or more likely, it came in contact with my sway bar arm. I still need to investigate it further.

 

[WJCO]

Sounds like one more reason to stay away from Steer Smarts. That company hasn't been around that long, these boots shouldn't be tearing in such a short amount of time if indeed it's something wrong with the boot itself. Dust boots typically fail from long term dry rotting over time or when they're damaged during repair. Hope you guys get it figured out.

 

[stitch1]

Can't say I disagree with you. I didn't know about their shady business practices when I bought it. However, everything seems to be built well. I am hoping I can find the cause of what happened to mine. I have a theory that I was in a hard turn while flexing causing the sway bar to rub. However, I need to recreate the problem to either confirm or disprove my theory.

I did contact them to see if anyone else had reported this issue before or if they had any thoughts on what could have caused it. They just said they would ship me a replacement boot. While I do appreciate the new boot. I really want to treat the cause so I can prevent it in the future.

This is with the wheel turned almost to full lock. I didn't have anyone to hold the wheel so it would move back a bit. As you can see from the aerial view it's not too far away from the swaybar. Now if the sway bar was to swing down I could see how they may touch. I am thinking that could be my cause. Not sure how to prevent it if that is the case. Maybe a different drag-link. :thinking:

 

[wayoflife]

Can't say I disagree with you. I didn't know about their shady business practices when I bought it. However, everything seems to be built well. I am hoping I can find the cause of what happened to mine. I have a theory that I was in a hard turn while flexing causing the sway bar to rub. However, I need to recreate the problem to either confirm or disprove my theory.

I did contact them to see if anyone else had reported this issue before or if they had any thoughts on what could have caused it. They just said they would ship me a replacement boot. While I do appreciate the new boot. I really want to treat the cause so I can prevent it in the future.

This is with the wheel turned almost to full lock. I didn't have anyone to hold the wheel so it would move back a bit. As you can see from the aerial view it's not too far away from the swaybar. Now if the sway bar was to swing down I could see how they may touch. I am thinking that could be my cause. Not sure how to prevent it if that is the case. Maybe a different drag-link. :thinking:

If you're sway bar were the cause, you would see evidence of it - some kind of shiny spot or mark and I seriously doubt that you'll find one.

 

[stitch1]

I did have grease on it but that could have been from the boot popping like nasty zit. But I don't think I saw anything that looked like metal on metal wear. I'll mess with it after work tonight.

 

[wayoflife]

I did have grease on it but that could have been from the boot popping like nasty zit. But I don't think I saw anything that looked like metal on metal wear. I'll mess with it after work tonight.

:icon_crazy: Talk about a visual :cheesy:

 

[stzd8]

too graphic lol

from grease boots to zits. well I know on my end it doesnt touch the sway bar cuz we did test it. And my jk is a daily drive not off roading, I know... another poser. But still I put lot of hours on it and parts so no way I am going to part from it. And it is great save on flood season here in monkey land (like some texans called it).

Hope my thread didnt inconvenience anyone. I was looking for different opinions on this issue.

 

[Benito]

I’ve ran into this issue with my yeti draglink, i am certain it is from coming in contact with the swaybar. i never contacted steer smarts about the issue since i had it installed on a PR44 with a top mount draglink end and a PR60 with a lower mount draglink end assuming that the pitman arm was allowed to travel more since the steer stops might be different on the after-market axles. If you go driver and your drivers side is dropping the boot on the rod end on the pitman arm will make contact with the swaybar. I highly doubt it is from bad boots as they are some of the same boots that their parent company, Powers & Sons, sells to Ford, GM, Fiat

Picture from the top



Picture from the bottom

 

[stitch1]

Wow good pics. That looks to be my same issue. Where you have some grease on your sway bar is the same as where it was on mine. So how do we fix or prevent this?

 

[wayoflife]

assuming that the pitman arm was allowed to travel more since the steer stops might be different on the after-market axles.

You can assume that but it wouldn't be true. Your sector shaft will only allow for as much rotation as its 3 teeth will allow.

 

[stzd8]

mine doesnt touch the sway bar.

we did looked at it. The boot twists while turning but never touches the sway bar. I use the Jks links to keep on a safe angle.

 

[stitch1]

I'm taking mine to a local Off-Road shop tomorrow to see what they suggest.

 

[wayoflife]

All I can say is that I'm glad that I still run an OE drag link. But then, I'm just a mall crawler. :yup:

 

[Benito]

Your sector shaft will only allow for as much rotation as its 3 teeth will allow.

I agree, but when you steer to full lock in either direction is it the sector shaft or the steer stops on the axle/knuckle that stop you from over steering? I’m sure that it the steer stops. the assumption is that aftermarket axles have steer stops in a position that allow for more steering but still stop you before the sector shaft would.

 

[wayoflife]

I agree, but when you steer to full lock in either direction is it the sector shaft or the steer stops on the axle/knuckle that stop you from over steering? I’m sure that it the steer stops. the assumption is that aftermarket axles have steer stops in a position that allow for more steering but still stop you before the sector shaft would.

You can assume that but you would be wrong yet again. My ProRock 60 and XD60 do NOT have steer stops.

 

[Benito]

You can assume that but you would be wrong yet again. My ProRock 60 and XD60 do NOT have steer stops.

I assumed these were steer stops on my PR60, my bad.

 

[wayoflife]

I assumed these were steer stops on my PR60, my bad.

:sigh: Allow me to clarify, "adjustable" steer stops as in, the little bolts that extend from it. Also, maybe it's just me but it doesn't look like yours are even making contact but hell, for kicks and giggles, disconnect your drag link and turn your steering wheel full lock and see if it goes any further over. You know, because without it connected to a drag link, there would be NOTHING restricting it and you wouldn't have to ASSUME anything.

Look IF anything, have you thought about checking your sway bar to see if maybe it's shifted over a bit? Because, the only thing holding it to the frame rails are the rubber mounts and really, there isn't anything that keeps it absolutely centered. IF your drag link boot is really making contact with the sway bar arm, MAYBE it's because yours is shifted over a bit to the passenger side of your Jeep. Just a thought from an idiot like me.