Tyler19
New member
Was a list like this ever made on Moby?
RubiCAT Gettin EVO'd UP!!
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
Was a list like this ever made on Moby?
sean.m.adams33
New member
Any update on rubicat??
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
I believe they picked him up today so we should see pics of his new set up tomorrow or the day after
sean.m.adams33
New member
Pretty exciting! Can't wait to see her!
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
thats an LOD bumper and the one eddie use to run on Moby. you can see the install here
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-ups/jeep-jk-wrangler-signature-series-rear-bumper-tire-carrier
hbkid22
Member
Got it. Thanks. Not trying to hijack the thread just trying to find one that will fit my set up.
StrizzyChris
New member
It really depends on your use, since trails in CO can be just as tough and extreme as anywhere else in the US. 37's on a front D30 with 5.13's is a lot of stress in the tall and thin teeth of the ring and pinion. It stands a short term chance so long as you leave the front diff open(no locker) and don't give it hell....but even then its a coin flip while you're wheeling as to when or how the teeth will blow.
As far as the b/o coilovers, you could absolutely run them on your current axles, its the gearing and tire size that will cause you the most issues.
If I were you, I'd keep the 35's and run the B/O coilovers until you can afford a PR44 with a locker and new gear ratio(or find a dirt cheap used stock D44 that's already re-geared if money is tight). That way you only pay for rear gears when you make the move to 37's.
hbkid22
Member
Thanks for the input. That makes sense and logically I should go that route. It's tough to wait but in the long run it makes better sense.
MR.Ty
Token East Coast Guy
Stole this from the pre running thread becuase i was wondering if the front axle bent from bombing through the desert or just crawling?
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Without question, bombing through the desert. If all you ever do is rock crawl, you'll still bend your axle C's if they aren't gusseted but for most people, the factory tubes left as is will be fine for a while. This is the reason why I recommend that people NOT waste their money building up their factory axles with sleeves or trusses. In the end, the weak links will still be the axle shafts and small ring and pinion if you have a Dana 30 and to me personally, it makes more sense to save your money, play with what you got and replace it with something like a ProRock 44 when needed or when you can afford it. But then, that's just me. :yup:
MR.Ty
Token East Coast Guy
Thank you for the info. That is good to know about only bending thanks to going hard in the desert because i honestly dont have any interest in doing that. It is cool to watch though! Just want 37s and still be able to crawl on the rocks. I did learn when i first joined that it is a waste of money to sleeve or truss the front so i wont. Still have to keep working on that "good driver" mod though.
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camping350
New member
Hi Eddie just got my 2015 rubicon been pricing things with Drew. Question I want double throw down but can't afford pr 60/80 ARB stuff at first what is the minimum to get by axel wise for a while. Note I currently have XJ with low pinion dana 30 with chromoly on 35s for 2.5 years and have not broken anything major yet. I'm not hard on the skinny pedal but I like to have fun.
First off, I think it'll be helpful to you to put things into perspective and understand that an XJ weighs about 3000 lbs. The curb weight of a stock JK Rubicon Unlimited is almost 1,500 lbs. more. Add bigger tires, bead lock wheels, bumpers, armor, etc and you can quickly get up to 5,000+. More than anything, it's the significant weight gain of a JK over an XJ or TJ that makes breaking axles and drive train components a very real concern. In other words, comparing what you have now with your XJ to a JK really is like comparing apples and oranges.
Having said that, you can run a DTD with whatever you've got but if you play with your Jeep off road, you'll be needing to replace your axles sooner than later. You can say you're easy on the skinny pedal all day long but with a DTD, you won't even realize that you're going way faster than you would ever dare to in your XJ or a JK with standard coils and shocks. With the DTD, the faster you go, the smoother your ride and it's this speed that will start breaking things.
0311DoC
New member
WOW! this is the best most comprehensive post I have read about a suspension system and setup. And as you can see this is also my first post. Until reading this I never thought a coilover set up was possible in my immediate future. Most of my friends were pushing me towards a TF Elite or a Metal Cloak Game changer w/ their 6 pak setup. Since this is my daily driver ill probably want to stick with the 35" tires, But I want to make sure I get the best ride possible on and off road. I am a weekend warrior and will hit Moab and Ouray possibly Sedona once a year besides just doing local trails out here in Southern Nevada. I also want to make sure my steering is good to go and pittman arms, drag links etc. So I don't get the wobble etc. Want a good beefy stance too
Would love some input!! Thanks EVERYONE on this thread. Man I learned Ton today!
WJCO
Meme King
WOW! this is the best most comprehensive post I have read about a suspension system and setup. And as you can see this is also my first post. Until reading this I never thought a coilover set up was possible in my immediate future. Most of my friends were pushing me towards a TF Elite or a Metal Cloak Game changer w/ their 6 pak setup. Since this is my daily driver ill probably want to stick with the 35" tires, But I want to make sure I get the best ride possible on and off road. I am a weekend warrior and will hit Moab and Ouray possibly Sedona once a year besides just doing local trails out here in Southern Nevada. I also want to make sure my steering is good to go and pittman arms, drag links etc. So I don't get the wobble etc. Want a good beefy stance too
Welcome to WAL. Lots of guys run coil-overs here.
Because of price or because of what's involved?
Is it safe to assume it's because that's what they've chosen to buy for their Jeeps?
To be honest, if 35" tires are all you're hoping to run, I might recommend you save your money and just get a decent 2.5" standard lift - a true 3" lift at most. I say "true" because a lot of kits tend to yield MUCH taller lifts than what they advertise such as TF. Their 3" coils yield well over 4" of total lift and for 35" tires, that's way too much lift or at least, in my opinion.
I also want to make sure my steering is good to go and pittman arms, drag links etc. So I don't get the wobble etc. Want a good beefy stance too
You won't need a dropped pitman arm with 2.5" of lift and even if you were to go taller, I would recommend a drag link flip/front track bar relocation kit like the kind that EVO or AEV makes. It's a much better solution to correcting your steering geometry. Death wobble is a condition of loose or worn out steering/suspension components, NOT an issue with what lift kit you get. As far as stance goes, wheels with less back spacing will help give you the look you're wanting.
0311DoC
New member
I thought a coilover setup was twice as expensive, and a lot of cutting. so never thought I would get one (Daily Driver)
Yea They swear by their lifts to try and bring in the best of both worlds I assume. I know some if not most Jeepers that have the time and money of course that totally trick out their Jeeps use them mainly off road and build for that purpose
Here is where my ignorance comes into play. If I do 37's im assuming their will much more needed add ons for the heavier tires and more parts needed to compensate weight and wear and tear on the factory D44's etc etc. Again im lucky if I am able to do serious trips once or twice a year. Everything else at least to this point has been local jeep club out here in the desert, day trip (every other weekend etc) But definitely have open ears to get pros and cons.
BenJKWrangler15
New member
Sorry if I missed one of the post but just to be sure, Rubicat is running the Bolt On Coilover kit front and rear from EVO and not the DTD system, right?... .-.