Smokey needs some V8 power.

Moochie

Moochie

Active Member
Sithwindu said:
Hey moochie, what made u go with a pr44 and not a 60? If you don't mind me asking.
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I'm not ever going larger then 37"s so the ProRock 44 should be plenty for this. As for the rear, when it starts to show me a smiley face, I will replace it with a Dynatrac Trail 60. These are more affordable. I will probably carry spare rear axle shafts with me. I just have to be careful with the extra horsepower. Rear wheel flanges and axle shafts will be the weak spot. The rear tubes, housing, and ring & pinion will be much stronger.
 
Sithwindu

Sithwindu

Member
I'm feeling like ill never go to 40's so eventually ill like to upgrade to a pr44 or pr60, everyone says 60 but the price difference is huge. Just need some hard convincing to just do 44's so I can make my mind up lol
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
Sithwindu said:
I'm feeling like ill never go to 40's so eventually ill like to upgrade to a pr44 or pr60, everyone says 60 but the price difference is huge. Just need some hard convincing to just do 44's so I can make my mind up lol
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I said that when I got my 35's and I am already thinking that maybe I would go 40's. it's only a couple grand more and when your spending $12k what's another two? :thumb:
 
SDG

SDG

Caught the Bug
This is probably a silly question but I am curious why you would go with a 44 front and 60 rear, and similarly why Moby would go 60 front and 80 rear? Is it cost issue, clearance etc?

I would think with a 50/50 split you have equal torque front and rear and equal likelihood or breaking front on rear. Or is it because when in the rocks you are usually at an upward angle and therefore more weight is on the rear end and thus higher chance of breaking stuff in the rear?
 
H

hothondaguy

Member
i think it has more to do with driving to and from wheeling areas. the front end is only working when they are crawling or playing in 4wd. but the rear is always working with the V8 pushing it, i could be wrong but that is my guess
 
Moochie

Moochie

Active Member
A ProRock 44 is all I need to safely run 37's and not worry about bending the tubes. It also has built in caster adjustment to help minimize front drive line vibration with a lifted Jeep. If I was going to use 40's I would need to upgrade to a ProRock 60. A Trail 60 in the rear is the next affordable step up from the stock 44. ProRock 60's front & rear (full float) can cost close to $18,000.00. Also new wheels would be necessary if the 8 lug bolt pattern is used. (Recommended)

I don't think they make an 80 for the front yet.
 
TheDuff

TheDuff

New member
The front 80 has got to be coming, coulda swore I saw it used on a recent evo build:confused:

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
R

rtguy1

New member
Moochie said:
A ProRock 44 is all I need to safely run 37's and not worry about bending the tubes. It also has built in caster adjustment to help minimize front drive line vibration with a lifted Jeep. If I was going to use 40's I would need to upgrade to a ProRock 60. A Trail 60 in the rear is the next affordable step up from the stock 44. ProRock 60's front & rear (full float) can cost close to $18,000.00. Also new wheels would be necessary if the 8 lug bolt pattern is used. (Recommended)

I don't think they make an 80 for the front yet.
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agreed. depending on options 16-18k for the 60's...its not a couple grand difference. plus wheels to match the pattern, and new tierod and draglink to match the extra width. did the same setup with a pr44 up front and a pr60 in the rear. i went with a trail series 60 with the prorock 60 housing upgrade. funny thing is its much cheaper to order it that way than as a semi float prorock 60. talked to the dynatrac rep about it and he said that pricing is increased when you order as a prorock instead of trail series due to the inherent costs associated with all of the additional options available on the prorock axle. the trail series has very limited options. its the same axle as a semi float prorock 60. not sure if you knew about the prorock housing upgrade for the trail series but give it a look. I also went to the alternate width of 68.5" on both front and rear. I like your plan:thumb:
 
DJCFHB

DJCFHB

New member
Curious to know what the driving characteristics are like. i have a similar set up on my rig as you and i'm trying to learn as much as i can while i wait on the funds to buy the kit (already have the motor and trans).
 
Linebacker

Linebacker

Caught the Bug
Moochie said:
I have 5:13's in it now. I probably will stay with these.
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Ok, from a JK Noob I think you nailed the build. The 5.3 is strong, but not overwhelming. It has lots of torque which is what off roading is all about. When others break, you'll be yanking them out.:thumb:
 
Moochie

Moochie

Active Member
Taking a short ride on a light rail transit vehicle after dropping Smokey off for some minor adjustments at Turn Key.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1375720143.697753.jpg
 
KenB1010

KenB1010

New member
LOL, that's not a very good example of smokies reliability, if he's in the shop and your riding light trains instead of trails. 😃
 
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