Steering wheel wobble sometimes full on death wobble 19 JLUR

BlueRubicon said:
Eddie, after you installed the Synergy tierod, drag link and stabilizer, that didn't cure it? You are posting 10/28 so I guess it's rhetorical.
I was looking into doing what you did. However I may wait. I don't get death wobble but do experience steering wheel moving rapidly at about 48mph. I think it's the 37" Cooper STT's. It didn't do it until I put them on.
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That’s were it all began for me. It started about 2-3 months ago with just a little more wobble in the steering wheel. I thought it was the tires and would move them around. Cool mornings made it worse. I just took the kids to school and it’s 5 degrees out. The jeep is basically non drivable now but parts are on the way. Hope that fixes it. I replaced the draglink, tierod, and Trackbar with aftermarket already. I have a dual stabilizer setup coming today and a pump by the end of the week hopefully. It’s like the pump just gets weaker and weaker is all I can gather at this time.
 
bkac said:
That’s were it all began for me. It started about 2-3 months ago with just a little more wobble in the steering wheel. I thought it was the tires and would move them around. Cool mornings made it worse. I just took the kids to school and it’s 5 degrees out. The jeep is basically non drivable now but parts are on the way. Hope that fixes it. I replaced the draglink, tierod, and Trackbar with aftermarket already. I have a dual stabilizer setup coming today and a pump by the end of the week hopefully. It’s like the pump just gets weaker and weaker is all I can gather at this time.
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Well that's discouraging. Did you have other than stock tires on it before you lifted it? Did this occur when in stock formation?
 
BlueRubicon said:
Well that's discouraging. Did you have other than stock tires on it before you lifted it? Did this occur when in stock formation?
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I put the lift and tires on at 1000 miles. It drove amazing until 8k miles then all hell started. It started out where the whee would move a tase when hitting bumps then kept getting worse. Now I’m where I’m at even after replacing all the steering parts in the last few weeks. The only thing left is the steering pump and it will be all new up front.
 
BlueRubicon said:
Eddie, after you installed the Synergy tierod, drag link and stabilizer, that didn't cure it? You are posting 10/28 so I guess it's rhetorical.
I was looking into doing what you did. However I may wait. I don't get death wobble but do experience steering wheel moving rapidly at about 48mph. I think it's the 37" Cooper STT's. It didn't do it until I put them on.
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Actually, what fixed my wobble was installing a new Rancho track bar. Adding the Synergy tie-rod and drag link simply firmed things up even more. All was good up until just recently when temps started to dip in to the 30's and lower. Now, I'm looking for answers again just like everyone else.
 
bkac said:
I put the lift and tires on at 1000 miles. It drove amazing until 8k miles then all hell started. It started out where the whee would move a tase when hitting bumps then kept getting worse. Now I’m where I’m at even after replacing all the steering parts in the last few weeks. The only thing left is the steering pump and it will be all new up front.
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I'm still putting my money on the pump being the culprit. I'd be the first to say that it shouldn't be but it's the only thing I can think of at this point and time especially being that the problem is temperature related. That being said, I still plan on installing a Synergy track bar frame mount just in case there's some flexing going on there.
 
Have you guys experimented with tire pressure to see if it has any effect on the problem? A little more, a little less, etc.? Tire pressure does change with temperature...


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Has anybody tried disabling their electronic power steering pump using the Tazer JL? I'd try it to see what effect it would have on my DW, but I live at the top of a steep hill that's pretty much coated with ice at this point.

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doubletapdaddy said:
Has anybody tried disabling their electronic power steering pump using the Tazer JL? I'd try it to see what effect it would have on my DW, but I live at the top of a steep hill that's pretty much coated with ice at this point.

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Hey now, there's a thought. I need to update mine but I think I might give that a try. :thumb:
I should note, I've done this on my JT but only because we've removed our e-steering pump. Not sure if disabling it will actually disable it or just turn the light off when not present.
 
doubletapdaddy said:
Has anybody tried disabling their electronic power steering pump using the Tazer JL? I'd try it to see what effect it would have on my DW, but I live at the top of a steep hill that's pretty much coated with ice at this point.

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I’ll give that a shot but if I’m not mistaken it just turns out the light on the dash. Maybe I’m wrong. Good idea.
 
bkac said:
I’ll give that a shot but if I’m not mistaken it just turns out the light on the dash. Maybe I’m wrong. Good idea.
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I just edited my post to say the same thing. I think it might just turn the light off on the EVIC
 
fiend said:
Have you guys experimented with tire pressure to see if it has any effect on the problem? A little more, a little less, etc.? Tire pressure does change with temperature...


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I have, from 5-35 psi. It was happening worse with lower pressures but that’s expected. I was all over the spectrum during the JLX with pressures. Now temps do have a huge effect on it.
 
Could there be an issue with the aluminum knuckles and Factory Ball Joints? Bad joints.. Loose in the knuckle? Steel vs Aluminum expand & contract different.... I’m reaching here I know.
 
TrailHunter said:
Could there be an issue with the aluminum knuckles and Factory Ball Joints? Bad joints.. Loose in the knuckle? Steel vs Aluminum expand & contract different.... I’m reaching here I know.
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That was my original thought but Mel was having DW on the JL/JT Experience and he's running UD60's with cast knuckles.

Ball joints are definitely suspect for me especially being that Dynatrac recycled the ones from our factory front axle and had a HELL of a time getting them installed. We have about 45,000 miles on them now so it wouldn't surprise me in the least if they're bad. I'm currently waiting for Synergy to release the ones they are making.
 
wayoflife said:
Hey now, there's a thought. I need to update mine but I think I might give that a try. :thumb:
I should note, I've done this on my JT but only because we've removed our e-steering pump. Not sure if disabling it will actually disable it or just turn the light off when not present.
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bkac said:
I’ll give that a shot but if I’m not mistaken it just turns out the light on the dash. Maybe I’m wrong. Good idea.
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wayoflife said:
I just edited my post to say the same thing. I think it might just turn the light off on the EVIC
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Could you manually just unplug it at the pump. There has be an electrical connector there I would assume.
 
WJCO said:
Could you manually just unplug it at the pump. There has be an electrical connector there I would assume.
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Yeah, I might try that and see how manual steering feels. I just gotta find some time to do it :crazyeyes:
 
wayoflife said:
You mean on the track bar? If so, not sure but I doubt it.
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I’ve tried 3 different trackbars. No change. I’m gonna unplug the pump before I install the dual stabilizer tonight to see what that does. I’ll see if I can get some video of it really helps.
 
Is this issue only happening with the 4dr?
My buddy has a 2dr on a 3.5" lift and 37s with nothing fancy going on in the steering, hell not even a drag link flip and has no issues with DW nor has heard any out of other 2dr guys......

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I went searching around on Google just to see how many other ideas were out there and oh man the internet is a funny place. Plenty of old hat jeep guys calling people idiots that the SS does nothing but mask DW. New to jeep people saying that the SS is an integral part of the steering system and that if jeep isolated it to a date range then that must be the issue. I'm dying laughing at people argue over the SS, hell I even found some people talking about how the bolts were too small and don't fill the hole on the track bar and control arms.....dear god it's JK grade 8 replacement all over again.

If someone like Mel is having DW issues with UD60s and long arms it HAS to be something out of the normal or else someone would have found it by now. The fact that jeep blamed some bad SS makes me think they are just slapping the fastest cheapest thing on to hide it.

Still curious on if anyone has had this issue with the 2dr as I have only found people talking about it with the 4dr

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