Superduty axle swap on a jku

Rb1boxer_3 said:
400 for front didn't ask about rear and another 600 for front same about rear. . . But if you do everything yourself I'd say about 7500. But if you have the money from the start and no time or means to do it I'd just go with dynatrac. To much hassle to build it yourself.

Out in the Boonies
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Agreed. Also, with used axles, you may not know the history of what they've been through.
 
WJCO said:
Agreed. Also, with used axles, you may not know the history of what they've been through.
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True, but really the only thing you're really keeping is the housing after changing the gears, steering, brakes and things like that. I would think it would be pretty hard to mess up a housing in a truck that would be on road its entire life

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jkwebbie said:
True, but really the only thing you're really keeping is the housing after changing the gears, steering, brakes and things like that. I would think it would be pretty hard to mess up a housing in a truck that would be on road its entire life

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This. I had mine built by a vendor that specializes in JK superduty conversion axles and aluminum steering(should be able to google them) for less than the cost of just a front ProRock 60. Only thing used on mine are the housings(completely stripped) and rear oem sterling shafts. Added RCVs for more beef in the front.
 
BigPrince said:
This. I had mine built by a vendor that specializes in JK superduty conversion axles and aluminum steering(should be able to google them) for less than the cost of just a front ProRock 60. Only thing used on mine are the housings(completely stripped) and rear oem sterling shafts. Added RCVs for more beef in the front.
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Haha I know exactly who you're talking about! I've actually called them asking for advice on some stuff. Very helpful guys! I'm keeping my stock shafts for now. I'll get chromo when I break them lol. And my swap is gonna cost less than ProRocks and I've also stretching mine, doing Struts and a tri 4 link rear.

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jkwebbie said:
Haha I know exactly who you're talking about! I've actually called them asking for advice on some stuff. Very helpful guys! I'm keeping my stock shafts for now. I'll get chromo when I break them lol. And my swap is gonna cost less than ProRocks and I've also stretching mine, doing Struts and a tri 4 link rear.

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Nice! Looking forward to seeing it.
 
still in school said:
how much?

Are you guys saving much vs lets say... going with dynatrac axles?
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Like Webster said I did Atlas, ORIs, wheels, driveshafts and axles for about the same price as you can get a set of prorocks now since they lowered the price. When I did mine they were a few grand more for the axles and thats without all the rest of the stuff. If I wasnt doing the work the prorock route would be much more appealing. If I had to guess id say buy the time you paid a shop there wouldnt be much of a price difference.
 
Grubbicon said:
Like Webster said I did Atlas, ORIs, wheels, driveshafts and axles for about the same price as you can get a set of prorocks now since they lowered the price. When I did mine they were a few grand more for the axles and thats without all the rest of the stuff. If I wasnt doing the work the prorock route would be much more appealing. If I had to guess id say buy the time you paid a shop there wouldnt be much of a price difference.
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Hmm, how much to fly you down to Houston for a weekend? lol
 
Update!

I'd post some pictures but my phone isn't letting me but so far I have the artec 1ton swapkit, Artec 60T tone rings and sensor mounts,ruff stuff cover, grizzly locker, 5.38s,1350 yoke, install kit, rotors and pads.
Just waiting for the abs stuff and pinion yoke to get delivered.

Pretty excited to get it all cleaned up and welded up so atleast it will start to look like progress!
 
jgarz05 said:
I'd post some pictures but my phone isn't letting me but so far I have the artec 1ton swapkit, Artec 60T tone rings and sensor mounts,ruff stuff cover, grizzly locker, 5.38s,1350 yoke, install kit, rotors and pads.
Just waiting for the abs stuff and pinion yoke to get delivered.

Pretty excited to get it all cleaned up and welded up so atleast it will start to look like progress!
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Awesome keep us updated. What made you go with grizzly lockers over everything else. I haven't looked into them yet.

Out in the Boonies
 
jkwebbie said:
I don't think you'll clear the brakes with that kind of backspacing depending on wheel size

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You'll clear the brakes with 17s no problem.

You just have to figure out what you are going to do for steering and make sure you clear that and dtd. There is very little tube on the driver side which will dictate your shock mounting and limit what steering arm you can use. My friend has a sd 60 on his with oris and 4" bs chamber pros and shit gets tight in that front driver corner.

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13_gecko_rubi said:
You'll clear the brakes with 17s no problem.

You just have to figure out what you are going to do for steering and make sure you clear that and dtd. There is very little tube on the driver side which will dictate your shock mounting and limit what steering arm you can use. My friend has a sd 60 on his with oris and 4" bs chamber pros and shit gets tight in that front driver corner.

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do you know the overall width on his rig?

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13_gecko_rubi said:
You'll clear the brakes with 17s no problem.

You just have to figure out what you are going to do for steering and make sure you clear that and dtd. There is very little tube on the driver side which will dictate your shock mounting and limit what steering arm you can use. My friend has a sd 60 on his with oris and 4" bs chamber pros and shit gets tight in that front driver corner.

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I've seen a few with the 16.5 rims and one with a 16 but had a lot of backspacing. But I know the suspension can affect the back spacing a lot.

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jkwebbie said:
I've seen a few with the 16.5 rims and one with a 16 but had a lot of backspacing. But I know the suspension can affect the back spacing a lot.
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Hey, I asked you a question on your buddy Will's thread but I guess you missed it. I'd be grateful if you could give it a look and let me know. Thanks :yup:
 
I'm running 4" back spacing with 17" Trail Ready bead locks on 2010 super duty (Artec swap) axles in my jku. The calipers are very close to the rims! Width measures 86.5". (Outside edge of 13.5 Nitto mud grappler tires)
 
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