Asking the same questions again ( but with a twist ? )

Ah2014jk

New member
Not sure which rig was running MC on the JKX to know how it "performed" an if any issues now that it is over.

Why not go EVO long arms with some Ranchos or Bilstiens. Save for the rest...and at least that front axle upgrade as going fast will surely bend it before long.

Another option would be the DTD set up but with the single bypasses. Get the arms you need now and the rest down the road. Will save a few bucks.

Or if the DTD is truly just pipe, then that's a whole different ball game as far as options. Rancho has a few kits and then you have EVOs enforcer as a step up from there.

Doesn't seem to make sense installing something only to knowingly be removing the whole thing for something else.


- Jason

So then how about going the rear DTD ( or front first ) and the long arms with just could and ranchos on the other end for now? The use the extra to swap the front axle out at the same time?
 

Ah2014jk

New member
Are you planning on sticking with the 44s or are 60s in your future??? I would make that 30,#1 priority, then address the rear then the lift.

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Sticking to 44s front but 60 rear.. Once this is sorted I plan a RIPP but that 2 years away or so
 

noroad

New member
So then how about going the rear DTD ( or front first ) and the long arms with just could and ranchos on the other end for now? The use the extra to swap the front axle out at the same time?

This could be done maybe you would have to ask what the lowest the DTD front could be set at, my guess is 3.5 inch, then get some coils and shocks for the back. could be a good set up with a long arm.
 

Ah2014jk

New member
This could be done maybe you would have to ask what the lowest the DTD front could be set at, my guess is 3.5 inch, then get some coils and shocks for the back. could be a good set up with a long arm.

Ya I spoke to the EVO guys last week and they said 3.5 would be min but recommended 3.75-4 to start getting a feel of what it can really do

I suppose the 4" evo ones would be about perfect then right?
 
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This could be done maybe you would have to ask what the lowest the DTD front could be set at, my guess is 3.5 inch, then get some coils and shocks for the back. could be a good set up with a long arm.

I was honestly curious about this too but with coilovers in the rear and coil/shock up front, but not trying to thread jack so I'll leave that to making my own thread. I believe the bolt on long arm for the time being would even be a good alternative, but the enforcer with some currie CA's in the rear would be nice too.
 

Tigrcky

New member
Sticking to 44s front but 60 rear.. Once this is sorted I plan a RIPP but that 2 years away or so

I would for now focus on the front swap, I presume you are going with the pr44? And sticking with 37s? If so I'd recommend 5.13 gears. And I'd highly suggest you rebuild your engine to be set up for the ripp for max life and power gains when of course you get to that point.

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thardy

Banned
I would for now focus on the front swap, I presume you are going with the pr44? And sticking with 37s? If so I'd recommend 5.13 gears. And I'd highly suggest you rebuild your engine to be set up for the ripp for max life and power gains when of course you get to that point.

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This! PR44 with DTD front and 3" coils and shocks in rear.

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Ah2014jk

New member
I would for now focus on the front swap, I presume you are going with the pr44? And sticking with 37s? If so I'd recommend 5.13 gears. And I'd highly suggest you rebuild your engine to be set up for the ripp for max life and power gains when of course you get to that point.

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Ya the PR 44 but only 4.88. I have an atlas from a Jk to eventually rebuild and put in and not sure if the 5.13 with that would make the final crawl a bit to slow for me
Sticking with 37s as there are a few private areas around here that 40s are the absolute MAX they let you use
 

JAGS

Hooked
So then how about going the rear DTD ( or front first ) and the long arms with just could and ranchos on the other end for now? The use the extra to swap the front axle out at the same time?

Several folks have done similar. Not ideal, but doable. I'd check with EVO/ORE/Mel and see how they would recommend doing that.


- Jason
 

Ah2014jk

New member
Several folks have done similar. Not ideal, but doable. I'd check with EVO/ORE/Mel and see how they would recommend doing that.


- Jason

I could just do the full suspension now and have a kick ass mall crawler until I can $$$$ the axles!!!
 

Tigrcky

New member
Ya the PR 44 but only 4.88. I have an atlas from a Jk to eventually rebuild and put in and not sure if the 5.13 with that would make the final crawl a bit to slow for me
Sticking with 37s as there are a few private areas around here that 40s are the absolute MAX they let you use

What is the ratio?

I could just do the full suspension now and have a kick ass mall crawler until I can $$$$ the axles!!!

hahahaha i mean you could and thats fine, but i couldnt trust my self not to wheel that beast lol!

I know I wouldn't be able to resist!

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Tigrcky

New member
Self control my good man !

Lol yeah I know I know, well 10:1 is a deep low range I have plotted to get a 4 speed atlas 1:1, 2.72,4.3, 11.4 for my jeep but even that is overkill, I recommended the 5.13s for 37s cause others report that it helps on the highway and keeps from bogging the engine, which might be ideal for you till you add the ripp

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