Asking the same questions again ( but with a twist ? )

wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Ah2014jk said:
1- metal cloak mid arms ( duroflex joints and both upper and lower front and rear ) this would be the least expensive both in parts and labour
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Don't get me wrong but, these control arms are only about 1" (2.5 cm) longer than stock. True long arms are about 10" (25 cm) longer than stock. The term "mid" implies that it's some how half way between a factory length arm and a long arm but clearly, that is far from being the case. Need I say, the name "mid-arm" is nothing more than a marketing ploy and for the most part, meaningless. In most cases, this extra length will cause rear coils on a 2-door to bow back and rub your track bar and cause rubbing of your driver side sway bar arm up front. If this is really something you are looking into, I would save your money and just run a good set of factory length arms. If budget is a concern, I would just run adjustable front lower arms and adjustable rear uppers and keep the rest factory. Trust me, they'll do fine.

2- full traction bolt on 3/4" long arm upgrade ( still about $450 less than the ORE long arms by the time I get them to me and pay the tax )
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Now this is a kit that I have personally run and thought worked very well. Being that the frame side joints are clevite and the axle ends rod ends, you will not have to grease it and it will stay quite. So long as you stick with standard coils and shocks, you will not have any problems with it. If you do decide to run coil overs in the future, you will need to change out the clevite bushings for something like Johnny Joints as failure to do so will result in the bonded rubber blowing out prematurely.

I daily drive this vehicle and sees highway use. I am looking for an end result that can handle the high speed runs over washouts and whoop di doos without looking back ( and beat all others ) and still be able to do rock crawling with the best. ( some pretty wicked trails about 3 hours from me )
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If you're going to be lifting your Jeep 4" or more, long arms and standard coils/shocks will give you a good ride on pavement and even on rough roads. If you really want to be hitting whoops and fast, coil overs are what you'd want even with factory length arms and I say that because unlike the TJ before, the JK arms are quite long for what they are. As far as rock crawling goes, long arms will NOT give you any more flex - just keep your axle more true throughout its range. Having said all that and being that you are on a budget, I might recommend that you run bolt on coil overs with just adjustable front lowers and rear uppers and a drag link flip. Keep everything else factory and I think you'll be quite happy. piginajeep here on the forum runs this setup now and for the most part, can still keep up with me.

I could just buy a game changer kit as that would save about 7 grand... More if I include labour for the install on the lever and that would get me a new fully built front axle and redo the rear with lockers....
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And here's the real issue. More than the nastiest rock crawling trail, nothing will destroy a front axle faster than driving hard and fast over whoops and washouts. For what you're wanting to do, I personally would try to work in a ProRock 44 into your budget and well over a fancy lift kit.

Hope Eddie chimes in here as well as anyone who actually has this on a 2 door
( want there a guy on the JKX this year with a full metal cloak game changer? How'd it do?)
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In all fairness, he did okay considering he was in a convoy of bolt on coil overs and DTD's. You just can't compare standard coils and fancy shocks to a good coil over setup.
 
Tigrcky

Tigrcky

New member
Ah2014jk said:
Good point on the gears.
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Also I apologize for my aggression on my first post, I truly do want you to waste as little money as possible, because let's face it modding a jeep is like crack, it's always "one more hit man!"

Sent from my whatchamacallit
 
Stalter08Rubi

Stalter08Rubi

Member
Ah2014jk said:
Ya but mine may smile just a TAD quicker than yours lol
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Idk man, I am going to Cali multiple times in the next couple months to go home on leave. I will be going to desert and off roading every time, including Tierra Del Sol Jeep Safari. PLus I think my rear might have a slight ring and pinion issue, it jingles a little lol so come March dropping the Jeep off at ORE for some work.
 
Ah2014jk

Ah2014jk

New member
Stalter08Rubi said:
Idk man, I am going to Cali multiple times in the next couple months to go home on leave. I will be going to desert and off roading every time, including Tierra Del Sol Jeep Safari. PLus I think my rear might have a slight ring and pinion issue, it jingles a little lol so come March dropping the Jeep off at ORE for some work.
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True but you have 44s I have the 30 :)
 
Ah2014jk

Ah2014jk

New member
Tigrcky said:
Also I apologize for my aggression on my first post, I truly do want you to waste as little money as possible, because let's face it modding a jeep is like crack, it's always "one more hit man!"

Sent from my whatchamacallit
Click to expand...

No worries mate .... Still a better forum than some others I have read
 
Ah2014jk

Ah2014jk

New member
wayoflife said:
Don't get me wrong but, these control arms are only about 1" (2.5 cm) longer than stock. True long arms are about 10" (25 cm) longer than stock. The term "mid" implies that it's some how half way between a factory length arm and a long arm but clearly, that is far from being the case. Need I say, the name "mid-arm" is nothing more than a marketing ploy and for the most part, meaningless. In most cases, this extra length will cause rear coils on a 2-door to bow back and rub your track bar and cause rubbing of your driver side sway bar arm up front. If this is really something you are looking into, I would save your money and just run a good set of factory length arms. If budget is a concern, I would just run adjustable front lower arms and adjustable rear uppers and keep the rest factory. Trust me, they'll do fine.



Now this is a kit that I have personally run and thought worked very well. Being that the frame side joints are clevite and the axle ends rod ends, you will not have to grease it and it will stay quite. So long as you stick with standard coils and shocks, you will not have any problems with it. If you do decide to run coil overs in the future, you will need to change out the clevite bushings for something like Johnny Joints as failure to do so will result in the bonded rubber blowing out prematurely.



If you're going to be lifting your Jeep 4" or more, long arms and standard coils/shocks will give you a good ride on pavement and even on rough roads. If you really want to be hitting whoops and fast, coil overs are what you'd want even with factory length arms and I say that because unlike the TJ before, the JK arms are quite long for what they are. As far as rock crawling goes, long arms will NOT give you any more flex - just keep your axle more true throughout its range. Having said all that and being that you are on a budget, I might recommend that you run bolt on coil overs with just adjustable front lowers and rear uppers and a drag link flip. Keep everything else factory and I think you'll be quite happy. piginajeep here on the forum runs this setup now and for the most part, can still keep up with me.



And here's the real issue. More than the nastiest rock crawling trail, nothing will destroy a front axle faster than driving hard and fast over whoops and washouts. For what you're wanting to do, I personally would try to work in a ProRock 44 into your budget and well over a fancy lift kit.



In all fairness, he did okay considering he was in a convoy of bolt on coil overs and DTD's. You just can't compare standard coils and fancy shocks to a good coil over setup.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the input. Is it possibly to mix and match a little ? Do the front DTD with a pr 44 and arms with just spring in the rear for now till I can put the rear in maybe 8-12 months later ?
 
Tigrcky

Tigrcky

New member
Ah2014jk said:
Thanks so much for the input. Is it possibly to mix and match a little ? Do the front DTD with a pr 44 and arms with just spring in the rear for now till I can put the rear in maybe 8-12 months later ?
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I might suggest get the pr 44 and 60 since you clear the 37s currently then get your dtd next year this way no wasted money on your rear gears or half of a suspension

Sent from my whatchamacallit
 
Stalter08Rubi

Stalter08Rubi

Member
Tigrcky said:
You should be it's a toy not a glass slipper... :cool:

Sent from my whatchamacallit
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It's my DD and dont quite have the capital to replace my axles yet lol, not for another 10 months or so. That plus the wife gets mad as shit whenever I spend money on my Jeep lol, I bought a Slab "A" Slab and she almost had a heart attack and that was just a Slab for a spare haha, figured if I was going to start buying Slabs might as well start with the spare.
 
Ah2014jk

Ah2014jk

New member
Mine has a horse so can't say much when I spend ..... The bank account yells like all hell though!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Tigrcky

Tigrcky

New member
Stalter08Rubi said:
It's my DD and dont quite have the capital to replace my axles yet lol, not for another 10 months or so. That plus the wife gets mad as shit whenever I spend money on my Jeep lol, I bought a Slab "A" Slab and she almost had a heart attack and that was just a Slab for a spare haha, figured if I was going to start buying Slabs might as well start with the spare.
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She needs to be just as addicted as you bud!

Sent from my whatchamacallit
 
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