aTX's Tru WW Evo bolt on coilover build

I took care of some odds and ends today; rear wheel speed sensors, exhaust, set the steering stops, trimmed the sheet metal up front and plumbed the PSC.

IMG_1223.JPG
IMG_1237.JPG
IMG_1230.JPG
IMG_1228.JPG
IMG_1231.JPG
IMG_1198.JPG
IMG_1199.JPG
IMG_1239.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Last edited:
Looks Good. Is that full bump or do you still have more travel once the tire hits the fender?
 
It actually the fender support you see pushing up on the fender. I had it bent up in that picture to clear the tire, but I still have a slight rub at the base of the tab right at the fender line. I may need to add 1/2" more bump stop.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
I also noticed that my bumps stops are a bit off at full bump. Not sure if it's a track bar issue or due to the amount of travel and stick length control arms. I still need to dial in the caster. It was at 4.5 degrees, but PSC recommends 7. Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
There isn't a whole lot room for error. I had to add some steering stops to keep the tires off the remote reservoir fittings as well. You can see the tire making contact here, but now there is about 1/2" of clearance.

IMG_1225.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Looks like the axle is too far forward. Track bar location looks good. Worst case (IF YOU HAVE TO) fabricate some tapered shims to set the bump stops where they hit centered. With that being said, plenty of guys have ran this setup without an issue. How close are the rear of the tires to hitting the body?
 
I have about a 1/2" of clearance at the back of the wheel well, but didn't need to trim there at all. The lowers are set at at 22-1/2" and I think stock length is 22-5/8". Do you think I should shorten them some?
 
I'm far from an expert, but when I did my recent axle swap which was fully custom, I had hours worth of work fine tuning the bump stops. And now, I can rock this thing slowly or quickly off-road with no issues at all. If I were were in your shoes right now, I would shorten the lower arms 1/2," , reset the caster with the upper arms, add a 1/4" of bump stop or so and retest. But that's just me.
 
Just to make sure we're all on the same page, your XD60 comes with 6° of caster built into it. If you're setting your caster to 4°, your pinion will be rotated up and that would explain what you're seeing.
 
All - thanks in advance.

WJCO said:
I'm far from an expert, but when I did my recent axle swap which was fully custom, I had hours worth of work fine tuning the bump stops. And now, I can rock this thing slowly or quickly off-road with no issues at all. If I were were in your shoes right now, I would shorten the lower arms 1/2," , reset the caster with the upper arms, add a 1/4" of bump stop or so and retest. But that's just me.
Click to expand...

I made my control arms for stock length at a minimum, so I am stuck at 22-5/8". My front must be stretched forward the difference in tube radius compared to the stock Rubi 44.

I had to cut the Dynatrack lower shock mounts off and welded them on with 1/4" of travel left, so the bump stops would hit before the shocks bottomed out. I hate to waste shock travel if I don't have to. How do you feel about adding a 1/2" body lift?

OverlanderJK said:
Is your axle centered? All we are seeing is the passenger side. Can’t see how you have that little clearance with full widths. You should have more than that.

Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

I didn't measure it, because I have a stock (non-adjustable) front track bar, but the passenger side looked similar. I did not have the shocks on the side that was drooping, so it may have been extended past the normal length of travel exaggerating the mismatch of the bump stop. I was going to make something to mock up the extended length of the shock, but ended up using a floor jack, so it could be over traveling.

cozdude said:
Yea really. With full widths and the backspacing of the cambers it would be pushed out way farther
Click to expand...

The paperwork shows 68.5" WMS and I verified it with a tape measure.

wayoflife said:
Just to make sure we're all on the same page, your XD60 comes with 6° of caster built into it. If you're setting your caster to 4°, your pinion will be rotated up and that would explain what you're seeing.
Click to expand...

Using a digital angle finder on the end of the pinion, I set pinion the up 8.5 degrees, which I thought would give me 4.5 degrees of caster. Am I on the right track? Admittedly, I do not believe I understand how to set up caster with this axle.
 
Last edited:
I ironed out a few odds and ends today. I found out the hard way that the XD2 steering box uses a Ford configuration on the cylinder plumbing where the port closest to the firewall connects to the passenger side. So, off came the high pressure lines to swap the hose ends out and I had to re-test the axle travel to ensure the lines were good. I had oil everywhere - what a mess . I finished the rest of the PSC installation and decided to raise the fuse box to ensure the wiring would not come into contact with my front passenger tire. I reset the length of my control arms the best I could down to 22-5/8", remounted the shocks, tires and have the front sitting on own two feet. I then battled with the sway bar disconnect motor, because the drag link adjuster bolts either come into contact with the PSC mount or that giant sway bar disconnect plug. After a couple hours of trying different clocking positions, I decided to pull the electronics and will either add an Evo manual disconnect or air actuated No Limits. From there, I plumbed the axle breathers with -AN fittings, ran the Russell stainless ARB lines and beat the crap out of my exhaust, so the Evo cross member skid would fit. I also pulled my hard doors and installed some Bestop soft doors.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom