Axle Upgrades on non-Rubicon

[12-mile]

I like the info here, I was/am considering just puttin Trutracs in front and rear when I swap gears.
I have been in contact with a sponsor on another forum who is "strongly" suggesting that I lock my D30 at the very least up front, but the general consensus on this forum is to go ahead and swap gears but leave the front open.
Makes me want to run from their advice cause I feel like they are just trying to make a sale rather than provide me with what I want for my specific needs.
I dont know why I bother with the other forums now

 

[mudmobeeler]

I like the info here, I was/am considering just puttin Trutracs in front and rear when I swap gears.
I have been in contact with a sponsor on another forum who is "strongly" suggesting that I lock my D30 at the very least up front, but the general consensus on this forum is to go ahead and swap gears but leave the front open.
Makes me want to run from their advice cause I feel like they are just trying to make a sale rather than provide me with what I want for my specific needs.
I dont know why I bother with the other forums now

You can lock a 30. It's just that you shouldn't expect it to live forever. It's not recommended very much on here because really it's putting money into something that isn't going to last. Depending on your wheeling it might last a while or it might not.

That's why it's better to invest in better axles such as what Dynatrac offers. Gain more in the long run.

 

[wayoflife]

I like the info here, I was/am considering just puttin Trutracs in front and rear when I swap gears.
I have been in contact with a sponsor on another forum who is "strongly" suggesting that I lock my D30 at the very least up front, but the general consensus on this forum is to go ahead and swap gears but leave the front open.
Makes me want to run from their advice cause I feel like they are just trying to make a sale rather than provide me with what I want for my specific needs.
I dont know why I bother with the other forums now

And, I think your gut is right on with this. Sounds to me like a typical vendor trying to push a sale rather than really taking you and your specific needs into consideration.

 

[WJCO]

I have been in contact with a sponsor on another forum who is "strongly" suggesting that I lock my D30 at the very least up front, but the general consensus on this forum is to go ahead and swap gears but leave the front open.

Agreed with the others. Anyone who is "strongly" suggesting that you lock your D30 probably doesn't even own a Jeep.

 

[12-mile]

Thanks for replies, I don't consider myself to be very knowledgeable about jeeps, especially along the experienced group in this forum, but I have tried to do my homework and realized that trutracs and gearing will probably be fine for what I plan to do.
Thanks everyone

 

[TennJK]

So getting ready to pull the trigger. Tell me how this looks:

Coast 1310 front driveshaft

Yukon Grizzly locker for the rear

Yukon 5.13 front and rear gears with install kits

EVO gussets

Yukon open carrier case for the front 3.73 and up.

Leaning more towards 5.13's now because I'm looking at 37s on the next set of tires probably.

 

[thardy]

So getting ready to pull the trigger. Tell me how this looks:

Coast 1310 front driveshaft

Yukon Grizzly locker for the rear

Yukon 5.13 front and rear gears with install kits

EVO gussets

Yukon open carrier case for the front 3.73 and up.

Leaning more towards 5.13's now because I'm looking at 37s on the next set of tires probably.

5.13s in a D30 is rather steep. Throwing 37s on top of that is a recipe for disaster. Just my two cents. I'd honestly throw in the rear locker, driveshaft, and gussets, and wheel till you can upgrade the axle.

 

[Jeepfan30]

I like the info here, I was/am considering just puttin Trutracs in front and rear when I swap gears.
I have been in contact with a sponsor on another forum who is "strongly" suggesting that I lock my D30 at the very least up front, but the general consensus on this forum is to go ahead and swap gears but leave the front open.
Makes me want to run from their advice cause I feel like they are just trying to make a sale rather than provide me with what I want for my specific needs.
I dont know why I bother with the other forums now

I just put Truetracs in my D30 and rear D44 this past weekend, had Yukon 4.56 gears already installed so just replaced the factory open diffs and all bearings and re-set up the gears. So far I played with them in the sand, and in an off camber situation. In the sand they dig hard, and all four wheels spin at the same time. When off camber the rear driver tire spun about half a turn and then i heard the BLD apply brakes and away I went. The Truetracs are a great option if your looking for something reliable, automatic, and always on (rear anyway), obviously not a true full locker and won't fit hardcore rock crawler needs, but a great alternative to a locker. Oh, and I have EVO C gussets since this thread is about non rubicon axle upgrades!

 

[TennJK]

5.13s in a D30 is rather steep. Throwing 37s on top of that is a recipe for disaster. Just my two cents. I'd honestly throw in the rear locker, driveshaft, and gussets, and wheel till you can upgrade the axle.

Was planning on ditching the front axle sooner than later anyways. And wanted to do 5.13's just so I didn't have to regear the rear in the future. That's the only reason that I'm considering the higher ratio. I am nervous about it not being as strong though. That's my only thing holding me back.

 

[TennJK]

So order is going out. Going with 4.88's. It makes the most sense. Thanks for all of your guys help. Appointment for gears and lockers to go in middle of April. I'll be sure to keep you guys posted. And a big shout out to swampdog for getting me set up with the shop. This is why I joined wayalife. I appreciate all of the help!

 

[Eezybreezy08]

This is a great thread. Gives me good ideas. Cause I have 2 jeeps with the 30 and it's going to be awhile before I can drop some pr 44 in

 

[thardy]

So order is going out. Going with 4.88's. It makes the most sense. Thanks for all of your guys help. Appointment for gears and lockers to go in middle of April. I'll be sure to keep you guys posted. And a big shout out to swampdog for getting me set up with the shop. This is why I joined wayalife. I appreciate all of the help!

Congrats! Good choice.

 

[swampdog]

So order is going out. Going with 4.88's. It makes the most sense. Thanks for all of your guys help. Appointment for gears and lockers to go in middle of April. I'll be sure to keep you guys posted. And a big shout out to swampdog for getting me set up with the shop. This is why I joined wayalife. I appreciate all of the help!

Congrats man! Stoked to see the progress.

 

[jorgelrod]

So getting ready to pull the trigger. Tell me how this looks:

Coast 1310 front driveshaft

Yukon Grizzly locker for the rear

Yukon 5.13 front and rear gears with install kits

EVO gussets

Yukon open carrier case for the front 3.73 and up.

Leaning more towards 5.13's now because I'm looking at 37s on the next set of tires probably.

What year is your JK? If it is a 2012+ STOP THE ORDER NOW!!!!! a grizzly is basically a Detroit and it will not work with your JK, it will go into Limp Mode. If you are running a 2012+ your options are pretty much a Zip locker from Yukon, and ARB or an E-locker (plus any other less known selectable locker)

 

[TennJK]

What year is your JK? If it is a 2012+ STOP THE ORDER NOW!!!!! a grizzly is basically a Detroit and it will not work with your JK, it will go into Limp Mode. If you are running a 2012+ your options are pretty much a Zip locker from Yukon, and ARB or an E-locker (plus any other less known selectable locker)

It's a 2008. The Yukon locker doesn't cause problems with limp mode until 2012. I've read your thread about it. Thanks!

 

[jorgelrod]

It's a 2008. The Yukon locker doesn't cause problems with limp mode until 2012. I've read your thread about it. Thanks!

You're Welcome, it's a costly mistake that I learned the hard way, so I try to pay forward all the help I've received here by being the guy who always brings it up on any Locker purchase thread

 

[Riley Moss]

So I've got a 2013 2door sport 6 speed and we are swapping in dads old rubicon axles that have been re geared to 4.88 and have the stock lockers any suggestions or tips I should know before I do this swap? I'm putting on the 35's that came off his rubicon.

 

[TennJK]

Last question, new diff cover for the rear or no? I've been looking at the poison spyder covers and wondered if it would be worth it. Thanks

 

[WJCO]

Last question, new diff cover for the rear or no? I've been looking at the poison spyder covers and wondered if it would be worth it. Thanks

I would do the new cover. I've hit my rear diff on rocks more often than the front. Without a spotter, you can read a line by yourself for your front diff through your windshield, but sometimes with the rear, it ends up in another spot that you can't plan out as well. If that makes any sense.

 

[MedixJK]

Last question, new diff cover for the rear or no? I've been looking at the poison spyder covers and wondered if it would be worth it. Thanks

Its preference really. I bought one because i peeled the bottom flange on mine and like the way the PS looks. An oem is way cheaper and can be ground down so it wont peel. Im sure the PS is stronger, plus it protects the bolt heads so i figured, why not.