Dynatrac Axles

[dwmgcs]

I would get an itemized list of what is to be done to justify that 40 hours, I installed my PR44 in about 6 hours by myself with a lot of other changes as well, you need to do some serious shopping around before you make a decision, sounds like they are bending you over without a kiss.

 

[Spudcannons]

He is starting to seem a bit fishy. I was mostly interested in the warranty he was giving and from others who have said good things. I'm going to ask for an itemized quote and see what's really going on here...

 

[OverlanderJK]

He is starting to seem a bit fishy. I was mostly interested in the warranty he was giving and from others who have said good things. I'm going to ask for an itemized quote and see what's really going on here...

What warranty i he giving? Dynatrac gives a one year warranty on all their axles.

You can buy the axle completely setup from Dynatrac and it would take no more then a day for someone with no experience to install two axles. It is easy.

 

[Spudcannons]

So he would be ordering it through dynatrac and it got murkier from there. He said the ARB products were inferior to OX and that my current driveshafts would be no good. And would not itemize the labor cost. So I'm going to give dynatrac a call as well as Northridge.

 

[jnabird333]

So he would be ordering it through dynatrac and it got murkier from there. He said the ARB products were inferior to OX and that my current driveshafts would be no good. And would not itemize the labor cost. So I'm going to give dynatrac a call as well as Northridge.

I know two guys running OX lockers one the electric actuated (which is the same as the cable wit an extra part in the middle to go wrong) and one has the straight cable actuated ones. The electric one has had some issues. I don't know what but he commented when I put my ARB in that he wished he had gone with one over his problematic OX. The other hasn't had any problems but it takes him an eternity to engage the lockers and he too regrets going with them.

As mentioned, Dynatrac will sell you direct bolt in axles that can easily be done in the driveway. In fact the only issue I can see with literally unbolting one and bolting in the other is the longer and larger nose of a D60. It is likely your drive-shaft would need to be shortened.

(I didn't read all of the thread so I don't know if this was covered)

 

[computeruser6]

So he would be ordering it through dynatrac and it got murkier from there. He said the ARB products were inferior to OX and that my current driveshafts would be no good. And would not itemize the labor cost. So I'm going to give dynatrac a call as well as Northridge.

Do you have stock driveshafts still? You could definitely get a front Dana 44 that uses the stock pinion flange if you want keep the stock driveshaft. I know that Dana 60's can also be ordered with a pinion flange, but it might not fit the stock driveshaft. The right one might exist, just make certain that you double check before ordering. But this would be a good time to order a couple double-cardan driveshafts and get U-bolt style yokes. If you're going to get new driveshafts, it may be best to install the axles on the vehicle so that you can get a good measurement. It shouldn't take more than a few days for a driveshaft to show up. What's your suspension like OP?

 

[Spudcannons]

Do you have stock driveshafts still? You could definitely get a front Dana 44 that uses the stock pinion flange if you want keep the stock driveshaft. I know that Dana 60's can also be ordered with a pinion flange, but it might not fit the stock driveshaft. The right one might exist, just make certain that you double check before ordering. But this would be a good time to order a couple double-cardan driveshafts and get U-bolt style yokes. If you're going to get new driveshafts, it may be best to install the axles on the vehicle so that you can get a good measurement. It shouldn't take more than a few days for a driveshaft to show up. What's your suspension like OP?

Evo 4" long arm, Adams custom driveshafts 1350 yoke built to work with the lift.

 

[linehand08]

I don't own a shop but I wouldn't pay for more than 10 hours of labor to swap axle's and your drive shafts should go right back in even if you have them modified a little at a driveline shop. as they said you probably could do the work yourself but for me its a time issue so I have a shop do my work but. shop around for a shop for awhile until you find someone you can trust. Honesty is not yet a thing forgotten.

 

[computeruser6]

Evo 4" long arm, Adams custom driveshafts 1350 yoke built to work with the lift.

Unless you plan on doing a V8 swap or going with over a 37" tire, you'd be fine with a 1310 driveshaft. You'd also save hundreds of dollars.

 

[Spudcannons]

Unless you plan on doing a V8 swap or going with over a 37" tire, you'd be fine with a 1310 driveshaft. You'd also save hundreds of dollars.

I already have the 1350's I will be stepping up to 37" tires when these wear out and a Cummins some day. I'm ordering the PR44 and PR60 from Northridge and will be installing them myself then have a shop I trust do the aligning. Any idea on being able to tell if you driveshaft is too shaft?

 

[OverlanderJK]

Unless you plan on doing a V8 swap or going with over a 37" tire, you'd be fine with a 1310 driveshaft. You'd also save hundreds of dollars.

Hmm I have 35's and a V6 and I've broken two 1310's. :thinking:

 

[OverlanderJK]

I already have the 1350's I will be stepping up to 37" tires when these wear out and a Cummins some day. I'm ordering the PR44 and PR60 from Northridge and will be installing them myself then have a shop I trust do the aligning. Any idea on being able to tell if you driveshaft is too shaft?

Your driveshaft won't work with a PR60. And if you are installing axles you should be able to do an alignment. A shop won't do anything.

 

[computeruser6]

I already have the 1350's I will be stepping up to 37" tires when these wear out and a Cummins some day. I'm ordering the PR44 and PR60 from Northridge and will be installing them myself then have a shop I trust do the aligning. Any idea on being able to tell if you driveshaft is too shaft?

If the angle of the driveshaft is too great, the driveshaft is fully collapsed (or the splines pull out) prior to suspension travel being complete, that is how you will know. You'll have to compress and flex the suspension through all angles it could see to verify this. As someone pointed out, since the pinion of the Dana 60 longer, the yoke will be closer to the transfer case. It'll also be a high-pinion if you buy a ProRock, so the pinion will be a few inches higher on a ProRock 60 than a regular Dana 44. I have a alldatadiy account, and it listed some general rules that apply to driveshafts:

Good cancellation of U-joint operating angles is within 1degree.

Operating angles less than 3 degrees (U-joint system).

Operating angles less than 10 degrees for constant velocity joint.

At least 1/2 of one degree continuous operating (propeller shaft) angle. On one U-joint system less than 1 1/2 degree operating angle.


With the driveshaft you have, it shouldn't be too short if it currently works on your setup. Make sure that the U-joint operates at a little bit of an angle though; the needle bearings won't rotate, grease won't distribute properly through the bearing and will wear out the U-joint quickly.

Here's more information on driveshafts: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

 

[computeruser6]

Hmm I have 35's and a V6 and I've broken two 1310's. :thinking:

That sucks. That doesn't mean it's not enough for some 35" tires though. A 1310 can take plenty of input torque. A lot of factors go into what would cause U-joint failure.

Your driveshaft won't work with a PR60. And if you are installing axles you should be able to do an alignment. A shop won't do anything.

He could just re-tube it if the length is off...

 

[wayoflife]

Hmm I have 35's and a V6 and I've broken two 1310's. :thinking:

LOL!! About what I was gonna say or, something along those lines anyway. Guess I'm a bit late to this one.

 

[wayoflife]

That sucks. That doesn't mean it's not enough for some 35" tires though. A 1310 can take plenty of input torque. A lot of factors go into what would cause U-joint failure.

Funny how the one u-joint the JK uses is a 1330 and NOT a 1310. Of course, the other rzeppa joints are a lot stronger than both.

 

[utiadam]

I'll never understand why so many people want to talk others into cheaper products. So many people have told me I would be fine with 1310s when I tell them I'm going to order 1350s. I'm sure a lot of people get away with them on 37s and maybe even 40s. I don't like the idea of having to buy something knowing it will have to be upgraded again later. Just save for the right one the first time.

 

[Warebear]

I'll never understand why so many people want to talk others into cheaper products. So many people have told me I would be fine with 1310s when I tell them I'm going to order 1350s. I'm sure a lot of people get away with them on 37s and maybe even 40s. I don't like the idea of having to buy something knowing it will have to be upgraded again later. Just save for the right one the first time.

True that. Moderation is for cowards. I'm not upgrading much at all, so that I can save the money and buy overkill. I don't want to be worrying about breaking things.

 

[utiadam]

True that. Moderation is for cowards. I'm not upgrading much at all, so that I can save the money and buy overkill. I don't want to be worrying about breaking things.

Lol I understand that everyone has a budget. Just don't go cheap on something as important as driveshafts. You don't want to be a sport wrangler that used a rough country lift but has rigid led light bars. If you are working on a budget then just be more careful what you spend your money on is what I'm saying.

 

[jnabird333]

I'll never understand why so many people want to talk others into cheaper products. So many people have told me I would be fine with 1310s when I tell them I'm going to order 1350s. I'm sure a lot of people get away with them on 37s and maybe even 40s. I don't like the idea of having to buy something knowing it will have to be upgraded again later. Just save for the right one the first time.

I think many people believe they have an easy repair or "fuse" that is protecting other parts (maybe a D30). I personally do not believe in this at all. I have a laundry list of parts we damaged or broke in a D30 (including RCV shafts) and the cheap grease-able 1310 u-joint on the drive-shaft was, and still is, happy as a peach under the Jeep.