EVO front bumper and later down the road

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
So is your plug on the bottom now?

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I took off my perfectly good working motor for the evo no limits. Now I have no worries about it not working or messing up. Seen a ton of People have issues over and over. Probably going to sell it.
 

bkac

Caught the Bug
I know I know ... I have actually been tapping out some lines and browsing some pics..... soon... very soon .... did you use dremel or sawzall?

Took pandas advice with a jigsaw and a fine tooth blade. Did them on the jeep. I cut the ends with a pair of vinyl siding snips. I didn't even have to use for trim they came out so smooth. Took maybe 1.5 hrs. I cut and reinstalled the inner fenders. I didn't have to buy any new clips. The wife came out top the garage and said i thought you were cutting the old fenders not buying new ones. Idk maybe she was just being nice...


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bkac

Caught the Bug
I took off my perfectly good working motor for the evo no limits. Now I have no worries about it not working or messing up. Seen a ton of People have issues over and over. Probably going to sell it.

I'm thinking about doing the same thing while I'm at this point. I would like to sell it before it breaks. Lol I'm starting to wonder why i bought a rubi now. After the pr's go in i basically got aa really expensive t-case. Just saying... Lol

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olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Yeah, I always forgot to press the button after I stopped or it would reconnect if I went to fast. The motor is what's really expensive. You selling your coils soon?
 

bkac

Caught the Bug
Yeah, I always forgot to press the button after I stopped or it would reconnect if I went to fast. The motor is what's really expensive. You selling your coils soon?

Yes, actually getting the evo bolt on's comes with New 3" bump stops and brake lines too. I believe the coils, bumpstops, and 5100s are going to Panda. He gets first dibs. I will still have brand new in the package 4 evo brakelines if anyone wants them.

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bkac

Caught the Bug
Pretty sure looking at it your sway bar link is bent us because it hit the bracket and not because of the drag link. But it's making contact now because it's bent.

Just took the shocks and springs out and flexed it onto the jack. The day bat links bent because they weren't looking enough in the bottom holes. Good thing me ones are on the way. :)

The bolt on coilovers do come with new adjustable swaybar links, right?

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Panda

New member
Yes, actually getting the evo bolt on's comes with New 3" bump stops and brake lines too. I believe the coils, bumpstops, and 5100s are going to Panda. He gets first dibs. I will still have brand new in the package 4 evo brakelines if anyone wants them.

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I'll take those brake lines too I'll slide you a lil extra $ for them next weekend :yup:
 

bkac

Caught the Bug
Yes, actually getting the evo bolt on's comes with New 3" bump stops and brake lines too. I believe the coils, bumpstops, and 5100s are going to Panda, he was the first to ask when mentioned it at camp that night after riding in a rig with coilovers. He gets first dibs, then rccrawler second. If they are still available after that I'll let you know. I will still have brand new in the package 4 evo brakelines if anyone wants them.

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jeeeep

Hooked
your motor doesn't look like it's flipped properly, the plug should be facing up and towards the radiator to get clearance. As it is, you have exposed the plug to being damaged
 

bkac

Caught the Bug
your motor doesn't look like it's flipped properly, the plug should be facing up and towards the radiator to get clearance. As it is, you have exposed the plug to being damaged

So the only way to do that is is after you cut the crossmember. Cool thanks

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bkac

Caught the Bug
I have to be right if strizzychis's writeup is correct, his plug is facing down just like mine

His
1410123794372.jpg

Mine
1410123866251.jpg

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jeeeep

Hooked
So the only way to do that is is after you cut the crossmember. Cool thanks

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cutting will give you more room to work but not necessary to rotate. I removed the bolts that hold the sway bar to the frame - just be sure to hold onto it before removing the last bolt, bungee cords help keep it from dropping.
Once the bolts are off and it's hanging down you can rotate it up 90 degrees, bolt the sway bar back up and then fine tune the rotation. I did trim a piece of the plastic shroud next to the radiator - trim carefully, don't cut into the radiator.
Expedition One makes a skid plate that looks like it'll work with many bumpers - I have one on order so I hope it fits with JCR... it does require cutting the cross member but it'll give you more front clearance
 

bkac

Caught the Bug
cutting will give you more room to work but not necessary to rotate. I removed the bolts that hold the sway bar to the frame - just be sure to hold onto it before removing the last bolt, bungee cords help keep it from dropping.
Once the bolts are off and it's hanging down you can rotate it up 90 degrees, bolt the sway bar back up and then fine tune the rotation. I did trim a piece of the plastic shroud next to the radiator - trim carefully, don't cut into the radiator.
Expedition One makes a skid plate that looks like it'll work with many bumpers - I have one on order so I hope it fits with JCR... it does require cutting the cross member but it'll give you more front clearance

Can you send a few pictures of yours? Thanks

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bkac

Caught the Bug
2012 and up there isn't plastic shroud to trim on the radiator.

Yeah, i was just looking and scratching my head. I swear i have it done right, at least for a 2014 model. My plug is facing down just like the write-up idk... If someone could confirm that for me it would really help.

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Last edited:

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Yeah, i was just looking and scratching my head. I swear oil have it done right, at least for a 2014 model. My plug is facing down just like the write-up idk... Of someone could confirm that for me it would really help.

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Looks about right.
 
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