Guess your reputation around the web is accurate.

For anyone seriously considering remold / retread tires, here's a detailed analysis of highway tire debris and casings. The conclusions may surprise you (see p. 188).

https://www.researchgate.net/profil...00000/Commercial-medium-tire-debris-study.pdf

Funny, I could have sworn you wanted your account deleted as in, you didn't want to be here anymore. :thinking:

Since you seemed to have missed it, NOBODY here is seriously considering your remold/retread tires. :naw:
 
I can get 5 Toyo AT2's 285/75/17's with a RH warranty for $1122.45

Or

I can get 5 Mastercraft Courser MXT's 295/70/17's with a RH warranty for $1031.90

Or

I can get 5 Mastercraft Courser MXT's 315/70/17's with RH warranty for $1176.00

Why in the fuck would I buy 5 retreads! You would really have to be stupid to do that!
 
I can get 5 Toyo AT2's 285/75/17's with a RH warranty for $1122.45

Or

I can get 5 Mastercraft Courser MXT's 295/70/17's with a RH warranty for $1031.90

Or

I can get 5 Mastercraft Courser MXT's 315/70/17's with RH warranty for $1176.00

Why in the fuck would I buy 5 retreads! You would really have to be stupid to do that!

Why? Because you could have sweet treadwrights that wear like this!

IMG_2389.JPG


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Here's a nice summary of the retread / remold manufacturing process (see p.18). Treadwright uses the mold-cure process. Today's more successful retreading practices chemically bond the new rubber to the recycled casing rubber. This process is analogous to welding. The older, inferior "recapping" processes used an adhesive, so the new rubber and casing were bonded to the adhesive, but not necessarily directly to each other. The older process would be analogous to soldering or brazing.

http://web.mit.edu/ebm/www/Publications/MITEI-1-h-2010.pdf
 
Funny reading this, my brother is not the smartest dude, but he actually got two of these tires for his explorer and within 5k of only road miles both had issues one the side wall blew out and on the other one the tread fell off like that pic posted above. This guy [emoji23][emoji24]


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Here's a nice summary of the retread / remold manufacturing process (see p.18). Treadwright uses the mold-cure process. Today's more successful retreading practices chemically bond the new rubber to the recycled casing rubber. This process is analogous to welding. The older, inferior "recapping" processes used an adhesive, so the new rubber and casing were bonded to the adhesive, but not necessarily directly to each other. The older process would be analogous to soldering or brazing.

http://web.mit.edu/ebm/www/Publications/MITEI-1-h-2010.pdf

If this process is so revolutionary, then why did one tire blow on me and THEN (and most importantly) the warranty tire I got as a replacement not have the tread "welded" in the middle? I could grab a center lug and literally lift the tread off of the old tire. I feel like you have some sort of affiliation with Treadwright as much skin as you are putting in this game. If that is the case, I would love for you to reimburse me for some of my costs associated with the first blowout. Let's take a little trip down memory lane.....

I was on my way to Windrock for a ride and bam! 80 MPH tire blows. I pulled the vehicle safely over to the side of the road and while waiting on roadside assistance to give me a tow...wait for it....BAM! Stung in the neck by a wasp. Turns out I am highly allergic to wasps and had to spend 2 nights in a hospital. All because this stupid tire blew out. Please excuse me if I am a little hard on your wonderful Treadwright tires. The icing on the cake was the warranty tire I received.
 
So since we are speaking of retreads....rubber that is I got a serous question. Would you prefer new or "retreaded" condoms?
 
Thank you all for your input. I appreciate it. I've know about retreads for a long time now, and the only reason I asked about them, was because their adds keep showing up on Facebook and other places. And I'm thinking, what is the deal with these? No one in their right mind would ever run these tires? At least that's what I think. And after doing some research on tire prices, I have found many brand new tires for around $200. Of course these new ones that are around 200 arnt the best off-road tire or mud tire. But their brand new! For me, I would take a brand new set of some off name brand over any retread any day! It's like that warm and fuzzy feeling inside! For me, if I had retreads and driving down the highway, I would never feel safe what so ever. And since the price of a retread is silly anyway I'll stay away. No matter what evidence you post!


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Here's a nice summary of the retread / remold manufacturing process (see p.18). Treadwright uses the mold-cure process. Today's more successful retreading practices chemically bond the new rubber to the recycled casing rubber. This process is analogous to welding. The older, inferior "recapping" processes used an adhesive, so the new rubber and casing were bonded to the adhesive, but not necessarily directly to each other. The older process would be analogous to soldering or brazing.

http://web.mit.edu/ebm/www/Publications/MITEI-1-h-2010.pdf

I don't think the numerous failure examples in this thread are helping your cause. Do yourself a favor and move along.


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IMG_7768.jpg
Here's an example of a cheaper off brand tire. I don't know anything about these tires, I have no idea if they are any good or not. But they are brand new for $210. I would take these any day over any retread!


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View attachment 257307
Here's an example of a cheaper off brand tire. I don't know anything about these tires, I have no idea if they are any good or not. But they are brand new for $210. I would take these any day over any retread!


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Not bad. One thing I have noticed with mud tires. If they are not snipped they tend to wear worse. I got some used ones from WJCO...they were 255/75/17 BFG M/t's. They do not come that way and I set my counter on them when I put them on. Noticed right at about 9,000 they started to show some uneven wear and I will rotate them now. You usually have to rotate these anywhere from 3,000 to 5,000. I am stuck on snipped mud tires and will look for those from now on. Just my honest observed opinion.
 
Not bad. One thing I have noticed with mud tires. If they are not snipped they tend to wear worse. I got some used ones from WJCO...they were 255/75/17 BFG M/t's. They do not come that way and I set my counter on them when I put them on. Noticed right at about 9,000 they started to show some uneven wear and I will rotate them now. You usually have to rotate these anywhere from 3,000 to 5,000. I am stuck on snipped mud tires and will look for those from now on. Just my honest observed opinion.

I agree with you a 100%


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