QuicksilverJK
Caught the Bug
Make sure plug wires going to the cylinder are in proper order on distributor cap 
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Help!
- Thread starter dwoodnj
- Start date
Didnt remove any of the wires so it should be good. Ill just have to check the timing with a light and see if its in specs or not
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Is there a way to check ignition timing on A 94 4.0 YJ?
1994 jeep wrangler yj
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1994 jeep wrangler yj
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RCVRY
New member
It’s computer controlled. The 4.0 has electronic ignition, the 4.2 had a distributor for timing adj.
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Is there a way to check the timing to make sure its in specs with a timing light?
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RCVRY
New member
Is there a way to check ignition timing on A 94 4.0 YJ?
Maybe, but it’s easier to check for DTC’s. Do a search for OBD1 Jeep Data Trouble Codes. It’s a series of flashes of the CEL that tell you if you’re throwing codes. Not all DTC’s cause a CEL. If your timing’s off, the computer already knows.
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Maybe, but it’s easier to check for DTC’s. Do a search for OBD1 Jeep Data Trouble Codes. It’s a series of flashes of the CEL that tell you if you’re throwing codes. Not all DTC’s cause a CEL. If your timing’s off, the computer already knows.
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Last edited:
RCVRY
New member
It’s been awhile but I know you turn the ignition on off on off on, or something to that effect.
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Just checked the timing but, just to be sure of something, the groove in the pulley is supposed to be cylinder #1?
And that groove in the pulley is supposed to be inline with the "0" mark every time the timing light goes on right?
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And that groove in the pulley is supposed to be inline with the "0" mark every time the timing light goes on right?
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Im pretty sure mine is off. Its hitting around the the 12 mark instead of right on the 0
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Just checked the timing after inatalling my distributer, i do get sputter after driving for a bit but just to be sure of something, the groove in the pulley is supposed to be cylinder #1?
And that groove in the pulley is supposed to be inline with the "0" mark every time the timing light goes on right?
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And that groove in the pulley is supposed to be inline with the "0" mark every time the timing light goes on right?
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Im pretty sure mine is off. Its hitting around the the 12 mark instead of right on the 0
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I cant seem to find the specs. Does anybody know the timing specs for a jeep wrangler yj 1994 4.0 manual trans?
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FallonJeeper
New member
It wouldn't be "0". It would be around 12, but it's not adjustable on a 4.0, from what I read.
I've never worked on the 4.0 distributor. I know you pulled it and put it back in. If the rotor and distributor line up the same way they were when you pulled it and.... you didn't turn the engine then you should be ok.
Otherwise get a Chilton manual or a shop manual for your Jeep and read up on how to remove and replace the distributor.
If you can't or are unwilling to do that, you may need to find a technician.
I've never worked on the 4.0 distributor. I know you pulled it and put it back in. If the rotor and distributor line up the same way they were when you pulled it and.... you didn't turn the engine then you should be ok.
Otherwise get a Chilton manual or a shop manual for your Jeep and read up on how to remove and replace the distributor.
If you can't or are unwilling to do that, you may need to find a technician.
Last edited:
Timing Specs!
1994 jeep wrangler yj 4.0
Does anybody know what the ignition timing specs are on the jeep 4.0?
Im just wondering what number im supposed to be on closest to "0" when im checking the timing with the light tool.
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1994 jeep wrangler yj 4.0
Does anybody know what the ignition timing specs are on the jeep 4.0?
Im just wondering what number im supposed to be on closest to "0" when im checking the timing with the light tool.
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kbsvo2go
New member
I found this post from another site. I think you've been told this before but it appears there is NO timing adjustment on the 4.0 engine. You can rotate the distributor all you want and you won't see the timing marks on the balancer change.
I have a 92 jeep I put a long block in, after farting with it for 8 hours I did some heavy research. You need an old dist cap with the side of ti cut away around # 1 wire lead. find TDC for #1 cylinder by pulling the spark plug and ratating the engine till the cylinder produces pressure,set the timing mark on zero. Now with the rotor on and the dist. cap on you need to put the distributor in so the rotor is just comming up to the #1 tit on the cap. about .005" gap between the rotor and the tit on the cap. After I found out how I got it on the first try.40,000 miles later its still running great.
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I have a 92 jeep I put a long block in, after farting with it for 8 hours I did some heavy research. You need an old dist cap with the side of ti cut away around # 1 wire lead. find TDC for #1 cylinder by pulling the spark plug and ratating the engine till the cylinder produces pressure,set the timing mark on zero. Now with the rotor on and the dist. cap on you need to put the distributor in so the rotor is just comming up to the #1 tit on the cap. about .005" gap between the rotor and the tit on the cap. After I found out how I got it on the first try.40,000 miles later its still running great.
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Strodinator
Caught the Bug
Jesus Christ man. With all the information you have here I would imagine you would have redone the timing completely. BTW is it a 93 or a 94? Not trying to be a dick but a sixth of your posts are just repeating the Jeep you have over and over.
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QuicksilverJK
Caught the Bug
12deg before top dead center sounds acceptable. With the ECM controlling timing it will change based on temp, and engine speed. An engine will run like shit, or not run at all if it fires at 0deg.
Now you know that you aren't 180 off though so you have made some progress. I would line that mark up manually on 0, pull your dist cap and verify everything you have done prior. I have a feeling that you are still a tooth or 2 off and you may have reached the ECM limits for adjustment, so it cant reach the deg necessary to run right at higher rpm.
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Now you know that you aren't 180 off though so you have made some progress. I would line that mark up manually on 0, pull your dist cap and verify everything you have done prior. I have a feeling that you are still a tooth or 2 off and you may have reached the ECM limits for adjustment, so it cant reach the deg necessary to run right at higher rpm.
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