WJCO
Meme King
Indeed it was.
Thanks. Loving it so far.
Thanks. Already ordered. Hope it's an easy install.
WJCO's Build Thread, 1999 WJ
- Thread starter WJCO
- Start date
Indeed it was.
Thanks. Loving it so far.
Thanks. Already ordered. Hope it's an easy install.
WJCO
Meme King
Got the ARB breather kit installed. Very easy. For the diffs, I just heated up the plastic line that ARB sent and opened it up with needle nose pliers to make it fit the larger fittings in the axles. For the tcase and transmission, I ended up just sliding the ARB into the OEM rubber line about 3 inches or so and zip-tied it really good, it was a tight fit without the zip ties so I think I'll be fine. I did this because I was running short on tubing, as well as those two gear boxes were really hard to reach and hard to get to the fitting on the gear box.
Rear diff:
Front diff:
Transmission has had to breathe a time or two it looks like:
Manifold all fitted cozy next to the Chipotle intake:
For OCD's sake I masked off the axles and tcase with foil and FlexSealed the ends of the breather hoses:
Rear diff:
Front diff:
Transmission has had to breathe a time or two it looks like:
Manifold all fitted cozy next to the Chipotle intake:
For OCD's sake I masked off the axles and tcase with foil and FlexSealed the ends of the breather hoses:
Last edited:
black pearl
Hooked
aTX427
New member
...I'm just running out to the garage for a minute....or two
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JKbrick
Active Member
So all the breathers go to one manifold? Both axles, trans, and transfer case?
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WJCO
Meme King
It certainly looks cool, but I'll also be the first to admit that I could easily be the victim of some Hocus pocus. ARB makes a good presentation with why they recommend it, and Brute recommended it and has a ton of experience with underwater pressures. He also said with lots of water crossings and regular maintenance that he has had no signs of water in the gearboxes.
Yes. Instead of the factory one-way jiggle caps like the picture below, the hoses just breathe naturally through a filter, no valves. I know for sure my tcase breather was plugged previously, because before I replaced it with the updated one from Mopar per TSB, I kept having tcase leaks in the same spot even after repairing the leak. After breather cap replacement, no more leaks.
black pearl
Hooked
Even if it dose have some hocus pocus to it, the vent is now up pretty hight for every thing. If that gets submerged, you'll probably be sucking water into the intake as well. At that depth I wouldn't be worrying about a little water in my gear oil, more like hydrolock. [emoji23]
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WJCO
Meme King
No kidding. ARB explains it more as when the warm gearboxes contact cold water, it creates a vacuum effect inside (air contracting) which can close the factory breather completely and then sucks water in through the actual gear box seals during the vacuum. Who knows? Either way, there is now no valve to close at all, it's 100% open to the air through a filter. Like you said, I also now know that all my breathers are up as high as possible. I can also easily tell if my fluid has water in it just by checking the fill level though.
GraniteCrystal
New member
Nice! Hope that solves it. Keep us posted.
GraniteCrystal
New member
Ugh. I hate calling it a night when there's still outstanding problems. Sorry to hear Doug.
DVLDOG
New member
Andy5160
Hooked
Andy5160
Hooked
WJCO
Meme King
Yeah, it sucks. Hopefully I'll get this thing fixed in the next week or so.
Flex seal
Already a step ahead of you
I actually just got done putting a layer of rtv on that spot and will do another layer in the morning. Doing some research, I've found that the problem appears to be the line itself. It's been updated with a different fitting. Something inside the fitting itself is leaking. Lots of people have had leak issues after moving the line. So until I get a new line on, I'm hoping the RTV will stop the leak. Well done. Same as you I hope that would be the end of it
I hope so too.
Brute
Hooked
Try wrapping some teflon tape (or paste) on the threaded fitting (wrapping clockwise if looking directly at the end to keep it from unraveling when threading in)...also, if using o rings, consider tan viton o rings since they have a much higher temp rating
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WJCO
Meme King
Thanks for the tip. I've come to find out it's actually a design problem with the line. Instead of the threaded fitting sliding on the tube like most lines do, this design doesn't. The threaded fitting and the flare at the end are one piece, it does spin on the tube but does not slide. There is an oring right behind the flare inside but is only there to prevent fluid from migrating to the threads. The actual seal itself between the flare and the line is built into the fitting, it's probably a brass bushing or something. From what I've been reading, if you disturb it and it leaks, the line must be replaced with an updated one. I'll try to take pics when I swap it out.